Powder Coating Questions
- Thread starter datonamanmike
- Start date
heh, yeah POR-15 is some serious stuff, i'de use rubberized undercoat or truck bed liner first, but if your serious about wanting it PERMANENT, go for it, i've seen it used in applications where it was used as paint, and it wasn't bad, only problem is lack of colors, and if you ever want to paint it again, either rough it up during the cure time, or grab some COARSE sandpaper, and get ready to tire yourself out. really its not practical to sand after curing.
the thing to remember with POR-15 is its pretty permanent.
the thing to remember with POR-15 is its pretty permanent.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
thomas said:Checked on a price to power coat my chassis $800.00. Only checked one place so far, hope to get a better deal some where else.
thomas
Keep checking around, Thomas. I got mine done for $630. That's EVERYTHING except the rearend. Maybe I got a break because they did my wire wheels, but I doubt it. Maybe things are cheaper in Texas, but I doubt that too.
Oh, that price you got may change when they actually see it. The place I used here (Allied Powder Coating) hadn't done a hot rod chassis or it had been a while and the prices they had for frames and suspension pieces were based on a regular car. Load your stuff up and let them see it, so they'll know what you're working on.
tbucketlar
New Member
Hey Guys, I pretty new to this board but I though I should put my to cents in now and then. I powder coated all my frame parts seperately. The rearend I had painted to match just to save some money. Everything went back together good just had to spread the frame a little. They put plugs in the threaded holes & it worked great. This is my second bucket. I had bought another one & redone it but I wanted to do a kit from scratch. I bought a total kit last Febuary and it is starting to come together. As for the por 15 paint I used it on my old buckets motor and rearend that stuff was durable & had a great shine. I also used heat resistant por 20 silver in my header tubes to protect my headers from turning blue. It worked great. I know this is a couple months late on this post maybe it will help someone later on. I am going to post pictures later on when my daughter can help. I am not to good on this computer stuff so I will be moving on so I can give my finger a rest.:lol:
I have had both transmissions and rear end housings powder coated. They come out great. Just remeber to get all the sand out before you put it all back together. The place I use sandblasts everything before they coat. So you have to be sure to get it all out.
Hi just thought I would put in my 2 cents.
My brother does powder coating and has coated everything he can get his hands on. The part must be very clean or the coating will not stick. He says that you can powder coat anything that can be heated to more than 450 deg. He has done heads and blocks. One of the things I like about it is if you scratch it or chip it, you just heat it back up and reflow it. The coating flows into the scratch and it’s fixed instantly. The range of colors is more than 250 I believe. Good luck with it. My other brother is doing a lot of nickel plating for me and it really looks as shiny as chrome.
My brother does powder coating and has coated everything he can get his hands on. The part must be very clean or the coating will not stick. He says that you can powder coat anything that can be heated to more than 450 deg. He has done heads and blocks. One of the things I like about it is if you scratch it or chip it, you just heat it back up and reflow it. The coating flows into the scratch and it’s fixed instantly. The range of colors is more than 250 I believe. Good luck with it. My other brother is doing a lot of nickel plating for me and it really looks as shiny as chrome.
lanceks1
New Member
I powder coated some hard to get a places on my motorcycle. Very happy with it. But on the bucket I wanted the ability to patch it easily. With Acrylic Eurethane one Stage paint, which is very chip resistant. I only have to mix up a small amount of paint, and touch up a chip once or twice, to bring the patch up to the paint level. Then color sand, and buff to get a undetectable repair. Done this many times with great results. Very different from my usual 20 coat paint jobs!
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