proportioning valve

Adjusting the proportioning valve. Where do you start and which direction pinches off the rear brakes? Do you want the front or back brakes to grab first? I have a CCR frame and brake set up. Disc all around.

 

See if this helps:

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/835-2608419.pdf


Probably the same for most units.

 

Thanks. I believe that answers my questions. I think most of the boys are at the nationals. Wish I was.

 

There's a good possibility, you may not even need one. The same goes for residual valves. With a low mounted master cylinder and your calipers only a few inches above your fluid level, you may not need either of those. I didn't have them on my T Bucket and she stopped on a dime, with a great pedal. Just something to think about.

 

I do not have a proportioning nor do I need one. The front calipers have larger pistons than the rears. This results in differential braking. Also have a manual, 4-wheel disc MC designed for mid 70's Corvette. Combined they provide the proper combination to eliminate the need for a proportioning valve. Car stops very well with no rear wheel lockup.

 

I ordered both, they weren't expensive, and I liked the adjustability option.

 

I recently reworked my entire brake system and did install residual valves and proportioning valve. I have 4-wheel drums and don't need the prop vale now but put it in so I would be ready when I go to front disks in the future. I have ready many posts on different forums regarding needing or not needing residual valves but I put them in anyway. The system works well (considering it is all drums). I'm not sure it is better now than before when it didn't have the residual valves.

 

Sue it is, YOU did it right and left the door open for improvements!!!

 

Thanks Bruce - I consider that a verification and compliment.

 

Nice post

 

I found that with front discs and rear drums on my bucket, I needed the proportioning valve. Much better now!

 

I do not have those in the bucket and I just don't see why you need them.......If you keep you drum brakes adjusted then they will work fine with front disc.......and if you keep the drums adjusted right you will be fine with them all around.....If you don't have any air in the system the fluid will stay where it is & ready to work anytime you step on the pedal..........That is my .02........ it may not be worth that much to you but works for me.....

Mike

 

The reason for them is if the master cylinder is lower that the caliper or wheel cylinder, gravity allows enough back flow to allow the caliper to retract and the pads won't remain against the rotor, same for the wheel cylinders. It adds petal travel and can allow brake pad chatter, noise. That's the theory.

 

My m/c is under the floor and lower than the wheel cyl. and calipers. I tried with no residual valves and it was a no go. I can't pump the brake fast enough to recover stopping power, especially in an emergency. The proportioning valve didn't seem to make much difference unless I went extreme either way from center. On sand or gravel all wheels seem to lock up the same.

 

Mine are right at the m/c. So maybe 2' of line that could have a void.

 

Duh! I confused the post... Sorry for misleading anyone!

 

When I decided to go with them, I understood that they should be as close to the mc as possible for that very reason, talking about the residual valves.

 

Wait, we were talking about residual valves, somehow things got jumbled, lol.