Radius Rod Length Question

[RexRod]

Hello all,

When I was in my middle/late teens and not paying attention, I probably built a hundred pair of hairpins for Jim while working at Challenger. I know, I know, I should know the answer to this question. But hey, my hormones where raging and I couldn't keep my daydreams off the girl next door....... or the girl at the corner 7-11...... or even the girls on the posters on the shop walls....... You get the idea.

My question is about hair pin lengths. You see different outfits offer radius rods in 27", 32", and 36" lengths. Custom lengths are offered as well from companies like Ron's RPM. What is this length they're calling out? From the center of the clevis eyelets at the axle bracket, to the center of the heim joint ball at the chassis mounting end? Or just the bare overall length of the radius rod?

Thanks in advance,

David

 

[Ted Brown]

I would say center of the mounting points, but remember this the longer the radius rods, the less forward movement of the rear axle, and the more leverage the radius rod has on the third member trying to lift everything, short will need to be made a lot stronger, as now the advantage changes to the rear end... and if you have a choice, use 4 bar bushings instead of clevises and Heim joints, this is a street car, not a smooth drag strip...

 

[Rick]

Hello all,

When I was in my middle/late teens and not paying attention, I probably built a hundred pair of hairpins for Jim while working at Challenger. I know, I know, I should know the answer to this question. But hey, my hormones where raging and I couldn't keep my daydreams off the girl next door....... or the girl at the corner 7-11...... or even the girls on the posters on the shop walls....... You get the idea.

My question is about hair pin lengths. You see different outfits offer radius rods in 27", 32", and 36" lengths. Custom lengths are offered as well from companies like Ron's RPM. What is this length they're calling out? From the center of the clevis eyelets at the axle bracket, to the center of the heim joint ball at the chassis mounting end? Or just the bare overall length of the radius rod?

Thanks in advance,

David

Just the bare radius rod.

 

[Ted Brown]

well that would have to be stated everywhere in the ad for them, as that could goof up a home builder otherwise, when ordering, if they have a special place they need to be mounted.. I would think.. must come without ends that way...

 

[Rick]

well that would have to be stated everywhere in the ad for them, as that could goof up a home builder otherwise, when ordering, if they have a special place they need to be mounted.. I would think.. must come without ends that way...

Speedway and Total advertised theres as such.
Classic 32" Rear Radius Rod

 

[Ted Brown]

Speedway and Total advertised theres as such.
Classic 32" Rear Radius Rod

Rick you are right they do state that length in the ad, mighty short, I think, as mine are 44 inches long (mount to mount) in the rear, and work super great, anything shorter would not work good for me...

 

[RPM]

Most all of the radius rods we build are about 30" long. That is just the tube length. You will need to add about 1 1/2" for the heim and also 1 1/2" for the clevis. So a 30" rod will mount up at 33". Now don't forget the length of the rear radius rod bracket welded to the rear end, most are about 2".....................so from the center of the rear axle tube to the center of the heim would be 35" and take a 30" rod. Hope that all made sense.

This must be the week for radius rods. Bet we have made 40 sets just this week. Lots of hot rods being built.

 

[Rick]

Most all of the radius rods we build are about 30" long. That is just the tube length. You will need to add about 1 1/2" for the heim and also 1 1/2" for the clevis. So a 30" rod will mount up at 33". Now don't forget the length of the rear radius rod bracket welded to the rear end, most are about 2".....................so from the center of the rear axle tube to the center of the heim would be 35" and take a 30" rod. Hope that all made sense.

This must be the week for radius rods. Bet we have made 40 sets just this week. Lots of hot rods being built.

Smile and take the money Ron.:laff:

 

[Ted Brown]

Glad to hear that, lots of rods being built... I always think of total Rod length from pivot point to pivot point, everything in the middle is dumb, (hopefully) correct?

 

[Rick]

Glad to hear that, lots of rods being built... I always think of total Rod length from pivot point to pivot point, everything in the middle is dumb, (hopefully) correct?

Total length applies to one on a car with ends of your choice. An advertised for sale one means length of raw rod.

 

[Ted Brown]

Well Rex, I hope that clouded the answer for you.. hehe Just figure out what You want from your ride, and make them to what ever YOU want or like... custom if need be... it is all in the eye of the beholder on a T Bucket anyway, this is NOT a race car...

 

[Rick]

GRRRR i hope i didnt confuse you.If you have mounts on your car and need rods to fit then take the figures Ron gave you then add them to whats out there for sale then see they will fit if not call Ron and he will make them 8 foot long if you want.

 

[fluidfloyd]

long. the center of the rear axle tube to the center of the heim would be 35" and take a 30" rod. Hope that all made sense.

Ron,

When ordering race car ladder bars, lengths are always considered from the axle centerline to the front pivot or rodend centerline. I think they do it thay way so as to stop the confusion when ordering parts from various venders. Now hot rod guys...well you got me on that.

George

 

[Ted Brown]

I do not want to pi$$ anyone off here, but I do fix a lot of broken rides, and a short RR either end, cause problems, either with mounting brackets, bolts, ends themselves, ripping from rear end housing, things like that, but they were on cars that get driven a lot, most do not... I just like for guys to not have to go through all the work of fixing a done ride, that is such a bad feeling and a waste of $ and time.. Just do what works for you, as no matter, you will get a lot of different advice... Happy trails!

 

[RexRod]

Well Rex, I hope that clouded the answer for you.. hehe Just figure out what You want from your ride, and make them to what ever YOU want or like... custom if need be... it is all in the eye of the beholder on a T Bucket anyway, this is NOT a race car...

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

What?! This world isn't exact and black and white?! Being a machinist, I don't think I can handle this.....

I'm going to attempt something on my own for sure. I like your ideas from other threads about using the rubber bushing type rod ends. Here in Colorado, the roads are less than stellar. Would make it easier to keep the molars in the back of my mouth. I do like the look of a Heim though...

I really like the appearance of the longer radius rods. Especially when the frame mounting points between the fronts and rear bars are real close together. I know Mr. Ackerman gets mad when things don't line up perfectly to the steering arm pivot and the evil Mr. bump steer comes out to play. I'll solve it all by just limiting my suspension travel to 0.001" of an inch! (just kidding).

Maybe for my ride I should try and reproduce traditional style looking wishbones. Shiny new instead of overpriced, old, and rotten. I even have and idea how to make them stronger. Hmmmm....

David

 

[RexRod]

GRRRR i hope i didnt confuse you.If you have mounts on your car and need rods to fit then take the figures Ron gave you then add them to whats out there for sale then see they will fit if not call Ron and he will make them 8 foot long if you want.

No worries. My project is pure vapor-ware at this point.

 

[Ted Brown]

I love the old one tube type, tapered, control arms. and YES I also love the LOOK of the Heim ends, but they do have their place and for suspension ends, it is NOT a good thing... too much side stress, like running motorcycle wheels on a car, also not a real good plan, as Bikes have no real side stress... point made I hope... just my 2 cents... PS, E-mail me or PM and tell me your idea on those rods, I would love to do that for my Son's ride... although 1 year early Ford had a real good set of those, was it 37?? rears???

 

[Rick]

I love the old one tube type, tapered, control arms. and YES I also love the LOOK of the Heim ends, but they do have their place and for suspension ends, it is NOT a good thing... too much side stress, like running motorcycle wheels on a car, also not a real good plan, as Bikes have no real side stress... point made I hope... just my 2 cents... PS, E-mail me or PM and tell me your idea on those rods, I would love to do that for my Son's ride... although 1 year early Ford had a real good set of those, was it 37?? rears???

Hey Ted check out the way Don did his on his car SWEEEEEEET.I like the way he mounted his shocks such a nice car.(Don from Dons Rods)

 

[Todd]

I myself am planning on 4 bar ends on my radius rods. It seems like a better cost benefit to me. However, hiems will more than likely be used on the tie rod (which I prefer to mount behind the axle) and drag link. I am not to worried about the reliability of them. As an former Navy aircraft mechanic told me, "we had hiems and clevis' all over those planes and they did fine." A lot of the broken stuff I feel is a result of people asking the car to do and be more than it is.