Restoring A T bucket that sat 10 + years

[fletcherson]

If there is no restriction on any brakes, the path of least resistance or the closest to the master will get pressure first. It doesn’t surprise me that with both drums removed the left one moved and not the right, assuming the left line is shorter... depending on how the lines are plumbed. I wonder what happens with the left drum in place and the right removed... again, without seeing the actual setup, just speculation.

 

[fletcherson]

Break lines to front all new , this is why I am stumped

New can still be pinched or have debris in them. A very small piece of debris can act as a check valve inside of the lines, especially at or in the rubber brake hoses or at their junction because they have very small inside diameter.

 

[T-Test]

If there is no restriction on any brakes, the path of least resistance or the closest to the master will get pressure first. It doesn’t surprise me that with both drums removed the left one moved and not the right, assuming the left line is shorter... depending on how the lines are plumbed. I wonder what happens with the left drum in place and the right removed... again, without seeing the actual setup, just speculation.

You are wrong on what you are saying. No matter how long the lines are, IF they are bled and no air anywhere in the system, (Hence a CLOSED system), then which ever reservoir is first in line when you push the brake pedal will start pushing fluid until it reaches the second stage of the master cylinder.

 

[409T]

then which ever reservoir is first in line when you push the brake pedal will start pushing fluid until it reaches the second stage of the master cylinder.

And then what? The piston stops pushing fluid from the first reservoir and starts pushing fluid from the second? Given a tandem master cylinder I believe there are usually dual pistons or one rod with two cups that expel fluid from both ports simultaneously. No?

 

[old round fart]

With every stroke of the master the fluid moves so far in the open line. That is why the closest wheel bleeds out first. It will move fluid only in lines with an open bleeder. That is why you don’t get much pedal pressure until the last wheel cylinder is bleak then all of a sudden you got firm pedal.

 

[fletcherson]

You are wrong on what you are saying. No matter how long the lines are, IF they are bled and no air anywhere in the system, (Hence a CLOSED system), then which ever reservoir is first in line when you push the brake pedal will start pushing fluid until it reaches the second stage of the master cylinder.

After thinking about it, you are correct. What I was referring to was his statement about only the left wheel cylinder moving with both front drums removed, nothing restricting the shoes other than the springs. My thought was that the left is closest to the master, so it would get fluid first due to the added pressure from the extended line to the right... IF that is the case. For example, when gravity bleeding, the furthest wheel takes longer and flows less fluid than the closest. Again, I have NOT seen his setup, so lots of assumptions here. However, as you said, IF the system is bled, the line length should not affect it. There must be a restriction on the right side either in the lines or the wheel cylinder or there is air present. Sorry for the confusion, thanks for correcting my thoughts. This should be a relatively simple resolve unless something is not as it should be.

 

[T-Test]

And then what? The piston stops pushing fluid from the first reservoir and starts pushing fluid from the second? Given a tandem master cylinder I believe there are usually dual pistons or one rod with two cups that expel fluid from both ports simultaneously. No?

Watch this.

 

[2old2fast]

^^^^^ Ideas it on the internet , it must be true !!!!..^^^^^^^^

 

[Neshkoro]

I read it on the internet so I'm putting all my money on it! It's a sure thing! Would the internet lie to us? Come on. This is America.

 

[Guy]

Democratic internet ? , well this is what I have done removed rear drums replaced both wheel cylinders adjusted both sides the same , then went for a ride I have good breaks but still pulls left , next removed both front lines and puthem in glass jars pushed the peddle once and measured both jars well the right one only got a few drops left about an once so that's my problem! But why started removing everything from the right side to the left side ever part is perfectly clear . So I am thinking I am not getting enough throw on the
master ? Everything is new back to the master and came right from the parts store . So I am hoping someone on here has had this problem or can come up with more ideas, I am so sick of breaks , now correct me if I am wrong but the rear breaks get fluid from the first part of the throw of the master if it's plumed correctly, being a T Bucket the master is in backwards so the front goes to the rear wheels. And that's the way it should be .

 

[choppedtop]

Guy, have you double checked the flex line on the right side? I know you said you bled everything. Once the lines are full, no matter how long or short they may be,they will both feed equally. The rear line goes to the front, which would be the opposite of where your pushrod is. Did you have both lines off at the same time? You should be checking them one at a time.

 

[Guy]

Could the right wheel just need more bleeding ?

 

[Indycars]

Do you live anywhere close to Palm Beach area? I can highly recommends a gentleman
that loves to help people, he has his own web site just so he can help others. He is well
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Grumpys Performance Garage

Have you looked thru the flow chart in the link below?

Brake Diagnosis Flow Chart
.

 

[Guy]

Yes we took an air hose to all the lines removed, and also blew out the fittings , but could see though them so that's not the problem, think I will put it back together and try doing more then normal bleeding on that wheel, now that I replaced the rear cylinders also it dose stop better but not getting rid of the problem pulling left

 

[Guy]

Now I see the new master is leaking what else this is the second one from orileys , bring it back tomorrow, will try one from Autozone

 

[T-Test]

Large reservoir is for the front brakes and if you haven't already done so, replace BOTH front flex hoses. If it still pulls after that then it will most likely be shoes or a drum.

 

[fletcherson]

Guy, how does the car drive when not using the brakes? If you take your hand off of the steering wheel, does it track straight or drift one way or the other? Is it possible that the brakes are exaggerating another alignment issue? I have another thought, do you have any residual pressure valves installed? Is it possible that the fluid is traveling or backing off when no pressure is applied and creating an issue? I presume the master is below the wheel cylinders.

 

[old round fart]

Be sure the frame net radius rods don’t have any play in them. My Riviera was pulling and one of the front stabilization rods was loose.

 

[Neshkoro]

If you're getting just a small amount of fluid from one of the flex hoses, I'll bet there is still air in that line. The right wheel cylinder is farther from the master than the left so maybe it just needs more bleeding. Does the pedal seem solid or spongy?

 

[Island Girl]

If you're getting just a small amount of fluid from one of the flex hoses, I'll bet there is still air in that line. The right wheel cylinder is farther from the master than the left so maybe it just needs more bleeding. Does the pedal seem solid or spongy?

This was my line of thought as well . . . .

Have you got access to a power bleeder so you can push a few ounces of fluid thru the line to that problem corner.

Drum brakes have a lot less fluid displacement compared to disk, so a small air bubble in a line can wreak havoc on functionality.