Running Transmission Cooling Lines for the TH350

[AndyMenon]

Hello,

Can someone please advise me on how to run transmission coolant lines for the TH350 on my 23T? What fittings do I use?
How do I plumb the radiator overflow tank? Some pics will definitely help

Apologize if I've mixed up the topics, but I'm assuming they all come under cooling system.

thanks in advance!
-Andy

 

[Screaming Metal]

OK, in the pass side of the trans your gonna see (2) tapped holes, one is a send , other is return, for the cooler lines. Just go to the Auto parts store and get some replacements. I won't go into a long song and dance about this, but, on some of these fittings, they're oddballs. You have some tapered pipe fitting, then you got straight ones, then you off the wall metrics....just go get the ones they list for that trans....it'll simplify things....

As far as Overflows....do a search....all. the guys here like to make custom ones....and they're extremely cool looking. On your radiator neck, theres a 1/8 or 3/16 nipple, put a hose on it and run it to whatever overflo tank you choose....

Hope this helps........

 

[Screaming Metal]

Oh, sorry, I'm in the shop late tonight....I'm just now eating....some BBQ....Yum....making a mess on the keyboard right now...run your cooler lines someplace where you can get some decent airflow....some guys mount theirs under the floorboards, on the firewall, etc, just keep them away from the headers and moving parts. On my 392, my lines run between the top edge of my valvecover and my blower intake, on the front part of my passenger side head, I have a bracket that holds the power steering pump cooler, (its smaller than a regular trans cooler but they work and they're not expensive, and heavy duty to boot), about 2 1/2" off the head and it recieves airflow from the fans on the radiator. It works good and gets decent airflow.

You don't want to go too small though because the fluid has to stay in there a lttle while so it can pass its heat into the air before it returns to the trans agian. Yes, my cooler is small, but I'll also running a deep finned alum. trans pan also that hepls cool it also.

 

[Ted Brown]

You can put a plug in each hole, no real need for a cooler in a T Bucket, none in Vetts... or just a loop in the line, from one to the other... As far as a Radiator over flow tank, 21/2 to 3 quarts will work fine, keep water level just above hose in the container, at the least... Works great... I have been running this way for over 20 years... no problems

 

[Gerry]

You can put a plug in each hole, no real need for a cooler in a T Bucket, none in Vetts... or just a loop in the line, from one to the other... As far as a Radiator over flow tank, 21/2 to 3 quarts will work fine, keep water level just above hose in the container, at the least... Works great... I have been running this way for over 20 years... no problems

Ted
Not sure you can just plug them as they are part of the oil flow circuit. Just run a loop from one to the other. And Yes to not really needing a trans cooler on a bucket ( Iam am going to run a very short loop) UNLESS you plan to put it on stall. Conveters on stall produce an ENORMOUS amount of heat. JW racing told me that a coverter on stall for 10 seconds would take a bucket of water from ambient to boiling. LOTS of energy.
Gerry

 

[Ted Brown]

Ted
Not sure you can just plug them as they are part of the oil flow circuit. Just run a loop from one to the other. And Yes to not really needing a trans cooler on a bucket ( Iam am going to run a very short loop) UNLESS you plan to put it on stall. Conveters on stall produce an ENORMOUS amount of heat. JW racing told me that a coverter on stall for 10 seconds would take a bucket of water from ambient to boiling. LOTS of energy.
Gerry

Gerry, Stall in a T Bucket is a complete waste of time and money, if you have a heavier car, fine, I always loved drag racing other T's with stall, it is hard enough to hold on tight with a stock converter and leave from an idle... just me here..

 

[Gerry]

Gerry, Stall in a T Bucket is a complete waste of time and money, if you have a heavier car, fine, I always loved drag racing other T's with stall, it is hard enough to hold on tight with a stock converter and leave from an idle... just me here..

Ted
I know that but people differ. No need to stall in a T is the truth, but Ive seen many do it in front of a crowd.

 

[Ted Brown]

Ted
I know that but people differ. No need to stall in a T is the truth, but Ive seen many do it in front of a crowd.

I myself would rather leave the guy sitting there, in front of the crowd, while he is spinning his tires off...

 

[Gerry]

I myself would rather leave the guy sitting there, in front of the crowd, while he is spinning his tires off...

Me too.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Good ole Ted....he's forgotten more than most folks will learn in a liftime! HeeHee.... built some really mean racing stuff!!! Subtle, but extremely mean!!!

 

[ellis8500]

All torque converters have a "Stall" rpm. It's based on the engine torque, vehicle weight and converter design. You have to have some slip otherwise it would stall the engine when you come to a stop. Converters with low stall rpm transfer too much torque when stopped which makes you push real hard on the brakes to stay stopped. A modestly higer stall rpm than a stock converter used in a 3,500 lb car is right for a 2,000 lb car. Too high a stall rpm and the engine will race up to a higher rpm before the converter "grabs" and you sit spinning your wheels. This is all explained at the T-Bucket Alliance web site and you can find out more doing web searches. I'm going to start with a higher rpm than stock that would be used in a Mustang with a 302 engine. See what happens. If stall rpm is too high, can always go back to a stock unit for about $100.

 

[Ted Brown]

In my turbo 400 I use a truck converter, plus I never sit at a light with the trans in gear... I click it out of gear on my way to the stop, sit easy at the light and just touch the shifter with my leg to leave... Works so good I never want to try anything else... Put too many in customer's cars and test drove them, not my cup of tea... No cooler, no problem, can put it into any gear at any speed and then it will stay there till I shift it, or just leave in drive and all works fine in auto... If I want to know about how something works, I build and test it myself, then I know for sure, no listening to BS with someone trying to sell me something... Drive safe, no more drag cars for me

 

[AndyMenon]

You can put a plug in each hole, no real need for a cooler in a T Bucket, none in Vetts... or just a loop in the line, from one to the other... As far as a Radiator over flow tank, 21/2 to 3 quarts will work fine, keep water level just above hose in the container, at the least... Works great...:foottap: I have been running this way for over 20 years... no problems

Yes thanks! I don't have a separate transmission cooler. The lines have to run to the radiator that has an integrated transmission cooler.
I wish I could see some pics

Andy

 

[Ted Brown]

Yes thanks! I don't have a separate transmission cooler. The lines have to run to the radiator that has an integrated transmission cooler.
I wish I could see some pics

Andy

I would NEVER run my trans fluid into a radiator cooler, as it will just HEAT up the radiator water, (trans runs hotter than the engine) just what the man wants you to do, run very hot, emissions is all they are wanting to kill, plus your engine.. :foottap: SPEND MONEY!!! :jester:

 

[AndyMenon]

I would NEVER run my trans fluid into a radiator cooler, as it will just HEAT up the radiator water, (trans runs hotter than the engine) just what the man wants you to do, run very hot, emissions is all they are wanting to kill, plus your engine.. :foottap: SPEND MONEY!!! :jester:

I would like to put in a transmission cooler. Something of this nature:

12 inch finned cooler

or another one such as this that is slightly different but lot more compact.

Obviously, the only places I got to mount is the frame rail very close to the transmission along the length of the car.

Here's my question - Given that the fuel lines run pretty close to this cooler, will there be any concerns of fuel evaporating? Do I have to re-route my fuel lines?

thanks again!
-Andy

 

[RPM]

Andy you can use a flat cooler and mount it to the floor under the passenger side.

By the way I wouldn't trade my 3500 stall converter for a stock one at all. Call several of the converter companies and get there professional advice on converters. Each and every application is different!

 

[Ted Brown]

A T Bucket does not need a high stall converter, just a waste of money, they won't help you win any races, and they run hotter, but still no cooler is needed in this light weight car... But you all do what ever tickles your pocket book...

 

[AndyMenon]

A T Bucket does not need a high stall converter, just a waste of money, they won't help you win any races, and they run hotter, but still no cooler is needed in this light weight car... But you all do what ever tickles your pocket book... :nod:

Thanks All! All of these points make a lot of sense. I will take all these ideas into consideration before deciding what to do.
But I'm still not completely clear on which way to run the lines, if my trans has to be cooled by the radiator. That said, I think it's easier for me to mount an exclusive trans cooler for the sole reason of making the entire process of running the lines a lot less complicated.

Any pictures are welcome

Andy

 

[ellis8500]

I am going to run hard lines from the radiator, clamped to the frame, back to the tranny. These will be connected to the tranny with short pieces of flex line so the tranny can move without straining the hard lines. Went to an auto parts store and bought the tranny barb-IFF fittings. Will get the rest of them there too I suspect.

 

[Gerry]

I am going to run hard lines from the radiator, clamped to the frame, back to the tranny. These will be connected to the tranny with short pieces of flex line so the tranny can move without straining the hard lines. Went to an auto parts store and bought the tranny barb-IFF fittings. Will get the rest of them there too I suspect.

To make your life easier Lets go over what has been said . You DO NOT need a trans cooler in a T with a 350. You cant just block off the 2 feeds in the transmission case as they are part of the oil flow circuit. Just joint these together with a loop of pipe (solid or braded) and hey presto its all done. Saves all that work with the radiator, lines etc etc
Gerry