There probably is not a torque spec on it. Probably goes like this. Install new crush sleeve and torque nut till it takes X amount of inch lbs to turn just the pinion. In real life that would be about 400 ft lbs on the nut to crush that new sleeve. You would also have to take the ring gear out to do that.
Now to solve the problem I would just tighten it as tight as you can with a 1/2" breaker bar and either use a new nut or put lock-tite on the old one.
Probably to late for ether of these, but here is two procedures for flange or seal replacement that we teach. 1. Measure pinion preload before removal then tighten nut to previous spec. plus 3 to 5 inch pounds. 2 index nut to pinion with marks, remove and replace seal, then re-tighten to align marks plus 1/16. PM e-mail and I’ll send these procedures from the book.
Probably to late for ether of these, but here is two procedures for flange or seal replacement that we teach. 1. Measure pinion preload before removal then tighten nut to previous spec. plus 3 to 5 inch pounds. 2 index nut to pinion with marks, remove and replace seal, then re-tighten to align marks plus 1/16. PM e-mail and I’ll send these procedures from the book.
Tighten the nut until you have no play in the pinion gear. Put an inch lb torque wrench on it and shoot for 20 inch lbs. Be sure to put some RTV between the yoke and spline and nut and yoke.
Gear lube will seep out the spline and look bad.
Tighten the nut until you have no play in the pinion gear. Put an inch lb torque wrench on it and shoot for 20 inch lbs. Be sure to put some RTV between the yoke and spline and nut and yoke.
Gear lube will seep out the spline and look bad.
From what I'm reading online in other forums. I'd need to remove the cover and take every thing out to remove the pinion bearing to change the crush sleeve.
20 inch lbs would be with new bearings and a new crush sleeve and the ring gear would have to be out. That is what it would take to turn the pinion assy in the housing. NOT what you are trying to do.
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