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Standard Trans in your T?

McDenny

New Member
I have been searching the forums and came across a few articles. Just curious if anyone is running a stick in there T and if they like it....

I came across a Saginaw trans for cheap money so I was considering it. I know the clutch pedal and linkage will be alot of work.

I know a Muncie would be a better choice, but big money....

Anyone running a Saginaw 4 speed?

Thanks for your time

Dennis
 
T-5 here. the secret to a drivable std trans in a bucket is to design in the smallest tunnel possible IMHO. my floor is nearly flat, and it's as easy as driving a Toyota.

YMMV,
Russ
 
I'm running a 3 speed toploader out of a 68 Galaxy in my 27. I'm using a hydraulic clutch and had to shorten the throwout arm a little for steering box clearance. I am using a Hurst Syncrolock shifter out of a 63 Falcon Sprint and had to space the shifter over toward the passenger side for knee room, but it works.

I tried to make a 3 speed stick fit into my 23 when I was building it but the car sat so low the tunnel was too high and there was no room for a 3rd pedal.

Don
 
Muncie here, floorboard nearly flat , offset the shifter about 4" , clutch linkage is very simple mech. setup, REAL hotrods have 3 pedals ....

dave
 
I have been searching the forums and came across a few articles. Just curious if anyone is running a stick in there T and if they like it....

I came across a Saginaw trans for cheap money so I was considering it. I know the clutch pedal and linkage will be alot of work.

I know a Muncie would be a better choice, but big money....

Anyone running a Saginaw 4 speed?

Thanks for your time

Dennis


Theres some good articles out there.....doing a slave cylinder at the clutch arm saves room, even more would be the pancake cylinder inside the bellhousing, that way all you have to worry about is the trans. linkage.
I see no reason why a person couldn't do away with the rods themselves and run cables for the manual trans shifter. It would probabaly have to be a positive push-pull type. Would be alot of fab. on small parts, but well worth it if you like to row thru the gears.

The T-5's are basically toploader, but you wouldn't have alot of adjustability where to put the shifter unless you made and rebent a new shifter rod....but thats what Hotrodding is all about. Some of the T5's were pretty weak, just depends on what they came behind......
The older Doug Nash 5's have been out there long enough to be able to pick some up, as long as the one you find hasn't been abused.
Then you got the old Toploaders, which, for a nostalgia rod, would be cool with a tall handle and a dice / 8-Ball shifter knob.
You could always find a M22 though....there'll be parts made for those things the next 20 years.
 
Another thing, is not to hang both pedals together....ie....put your brake under the floorboard while the clutch cylinder is on the firewall. OR seperate and spread out the cylinders under the car. gotta be careful not to have them to where they can hang on things.

I saw one built not long ago with a early VW pedal assembly,....the room on the early bugs was pretty tight....in the pedal compartment. It rolled into the shop, was subframed VW Body with a 427 up front....no fenders.... looked like a Altered from Hell....
 
My T has a 3 speed trans from 1966 Impala. Bought the car and used most everything; 283 engine, 3 speed stick, steering box, master cylinder, etc. Both brake and clutch pedals are under the floorboard. I had to make both pedals and the bracket for the master cylinder but it works just fine. The clutch pedal is a mechanical connection to the fork. It's kind of a stubby pedal so the force to push the pedal is a little high but not bad.
 

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