Taillights wiring
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EX JUNK
Moderator
When you say three wire, is there only one bulb per side? If so, then one is for the brighter filament (brake and turn), another is for the tail light and the third is a ground. The new ones probably have the one wire for the brake and turn while the other has the tail light. You'll have to connect a ground wire from a light mounting bolt to ground. That is my best guess not having actually seen what you have.
Jim
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
After this is all hooked up, and both sides flash when using turn signals,(if you have them) you will need to add diodes to the brake and turn wires somewhere in the feed wire going to that LED. I have had that problem on the trailers that I used to build that was a two wire setup. If you are using a steering column that has turn lights if may not even be a problem. And correct on the separate ground wire.
Turn signals are already installled and working with the 3-wire taillights. It's a steel body.
The current 3-wire lights look like this: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Technostalgia-6064-1940-1941-Willys-LED-Tail-Lights,9875.html
The new 2-wire lights look like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1937-Fo...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e84d8dc2f&vxp=mtr
The 3-wire has white, red and black wires, the 2-wire has green and black wires. Both units are LED so there are no bulbs. In reading around the 'net there are some converters to go from 3 to 2-wire, some even say they are "powered" for LED's. But I don't think I'll need to power it since the system is already working for LED's (?). Also not sure why I would add diodes if the system is already working for LEDs (?)
Signed,
Electrically challenged
The current 3-wire lights look like this: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Technostalgia-6064-1940-1941-Willys-LED-Tail-Lights,9875.html
The new 2-wire lights look like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1937-Fo...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e84d8dc2f&vxp=mtr
The 3-wire has white, red and black wires, the 2-wire has green and black wires. Both units are LED so there are no bulbs. In reading around the 'net there are some converters to go from 3 to 2-wire, some even say they are "powered" for LED's. But I don't think I'll need to power it since the system is already working for LED's (?). Also not sure why I would add diodes if the system is already working for LEDs (?)
Signed,
Electrically challenged
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choppedtop
Well-Known Member
I guess what I am trying to explain is..If you have 4 wires, (tail, brake, and 2 turn wires) coming from your switches, you will need diodes. If you have only 3 wires, (tail and 2 turn wires) you will not need diodes.
Lee
Lee
2old2fast.
Good catch! I didn't see those instructions under Speedway's '37 Ford taillight because I bought the lights on ebay but that fits with what the guys were describing above and the wiring I have - probably the same lights. I'll give it a try...that would certainly simplify the change. Thanks to all.
Bruce
Good catch! I didn't see those instructions under Speedway's '37 Ford taillight because I bought the lights on ebay but that fits with what the guys were describing above and the wiring I have - probably the same lights. I'll give it a try...that would certainly simplify the change. Thanks to all.
Bruce
The taillights are working! Very simple using Speedway's descripton. I was really confused by articles on the 'net about trailer hookups going from 3-wire to 4-wire and having to use a converter, etc. This solution was MUCH simpler. Thanks guys.
Bruce
Bruce
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
Didn't intend on adding confusion to your wiring project, but I have been there before with crazy wiring that folks wanted to do on their trailers. You are right about the LED lighting. I feel much safer with the bright tail and brake lights. Glad you didn't have need for the converter. So far I haven't ever had to use a special flasher, but I have one stuck back, just in case.
Lee
Lee
Ah, go for it! I've changed all my lights to LEDs. They are brighter and will last forever. The only thing to note is an ordinary turn flasher won't work because, being essentially a thermal circuit breaker, it needs more current to trip it than the LEDs draw. You can use a fancy new flasher, or do what I do: add a load in parallel with the LEDs to increase the current so the flasher will work. The load can be an ordinary bulb ( I use the old bulbs that the LEDs replaced) or a resistor, and can be placed anywhere it is convenient. I put mine on the electrical panel right next to the flasher.
If you need help, just ask. I wire all my cars from scratch. Here's a shot of my LEDs off and on. The outer lights are Billet Specialties, very nice units $150/pr, and the bars are J. C. Whitney, excellent prices and color choices.
