The excitement is building
- Thread starter Island Girl
- Start date
Island Girl
Well-Known Member
I looked on Summit, and they have POR, KBS, and their own, Summit brand, in different sized kits, although the POR is only the sealer, doesn't come in a kit with prep and cleaner.
I imagine that the chemicals are the same regardless of brand, just some kits have more of something than another brand's kit.
Figured it'd be a choice between these two, either one should leave me with some to spare:
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-900056-3
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/kco-53000
The KBS kit has 2 qts of cleaner while the Summit kit has 1qt, so the extra $ seems justified.
Think it's worth just getting one of the kits?
Looks like POR-15 does have a kit:
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/poi-49239/overview/?rrec=true
More choices to ponder . . . .
I imagine that the chemicals are the same regardless of brand, just some kits have more of something than another brand's kit.
Figured it'd be a choice between these two, either one should leave me with some to spare:
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-900056-3
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/kco-53000
The KBS kit has 2 qts of cleaner while the Summit kit has 1qt, so the extra $ seems justified.
Think it's worth just getting one of the kits?
Looks like POR-15 does have a kit:
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/poi-49239/overview/?rrec=true
More choices to ponder . . . .
Last edited:
Island Girl
Well-Known Member
Pretty much so it seems . . . .
I went with the KBS kit, as it had the most reviews and almost all were 5 star.
Of course it had to go ground to Miami for $10 so it can come here on a boat for probably at least another $10 + or so . . . .
Just another of the joys of living in paradise . . .
Island Girl
Well-Known Member
So while I wait for my gas tank sealer kit to arrive . . . .
I figured it was a good time to install the sender assembly for the gas gage, which all came with my kit.
My tank is 24" X 14" and 10" deep, which comes out to just over 14 usable gallons.
Inspecting the inside with a bright light, it was plain bare steel with no hint of corrosion, and very clean as far as debris from the filler install.
My one disappointment is that there is only a single 3/8 NPT connection, and it's on the bottom . . . would have liked a dual port module on top, but the fill cap handles the venting.
Sooooo, . . .Unless I add some top ports, I don't have the option of a recirculating fuel system if I want to go there down the road.
Anyway, I ran a tap in the 3/8 NPT port so it's nice and clean and of proper depth.
The directions for the sender module install were pretty good, it's a straight forward process, but it gives you a chart for how long to cut the rail and how long to cut the float arm based on the tank depth in half inch increments, which made that part a cakewalk.
With the float movement accurately swinging from just above the bottom to right at the top, I positioned the assembly about half way from front to back of the tank, and with the float just a bit left of center, and drilled the hole that it all mounts thru. I picked that location with the hope that the float would see the least variation in level as the fuel sloshes around.
With things looking good, I drilled for the self tapping mounting screws and buttoned it up. Since it has to come out again to do the tank sealer process, I didn't squeeze it down tight and compress the gasket.
Not exactly a challenging endeavor, (hardest part was getting the drilling shavings out with a magnet) but it was sure good to be working on the T again . . . . .
I figured it was a good time to install the sender assembly for the gas gage, which all came with my kit.
My tank is 24" X 14" and 10" deep, which comes out to just over 14 usable gallons.
Inspecting the inside with a bright light, it was plain bare steel with no hint of corrosion, and very clean as far as debris from the filler install.
My one disappointment is that there is only a single 3/8 NPT connection, and it's on the bottom . . . would have liked a dual port module on top, but the fill cap handles the venting.
Sooooo, . . .Unless I add some top ports, I don't have the option of a recirculating fuel system if I want to go there down the road.
Anyway, I ran a tap in the 3/8 NPT port so it's nice and clean and of proper depth.
The directions for the sender module install were pretty good, it's a straight forward process, but it gives you a chart for how long to cut the rail and how long to cut the float arm based on the tank depth in half inch increments, which made that part a cakewalk.
With the float movement accurately swinging from just above the bottom to right at the top, I positioned the assembly about half way from front to back of the tank, and with the float just a bit left of center, and drilled the hole that it all mounts thru. I picked that location with the hope that the float would see the least variation in level as the fuel sloshes around.
With things looking good, I drilled for the self tapping mounting screws and buttoned it up. Since it has to come out again to do the tank sealer process, I didn't squeeze it down tight and compress the gasket.
Not exactly a challenging endeavor, (hardest part was getting the drilling shavings out with a magnet) but it was sure good to be working on the T again . . . . .
Island Girl
Well-Known Member
Seems like all I'm seeing lately is green, as in $$$, every time I look it's another couple hundred bucks to Summit.
Just finished a wishlist of fittings to run the fuel line . . . . 5/8" tube along the frame with short runs of 5/8" or -10AN hose at the tank end and fuel pump ends for flex and vibration damping.
The 5/8 size probably seems like overkill, but with a big mechanical fuel pump and no in-tank pusher pump, bigger is better.
Eventually, everything will be in -AN, but that stuff adds up fa$t, and there are more pressing priorities
Island Girl
Well-Known Member
It eventually has to go through a very small needle and assembly in the carb.
Island Girl
Well-Known Member
Very true . . . .
However fluid thru a tube is much like current thru a conductor, the less cross sectional area, and the greater the length, the greater the loss.
The carb is also on the positive pressure side of the pump, where the tank line is not.
But to your point, I imagine 1/2" would be more than enough, not to mention easier to work with . . .
Gerry
Well-Known Member
Always wanted to know where A.N. came from, couldn't figure it out for myself and too lazy to guggle it.
