Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

Thoughts on my Project ideas.

Tommy T

New Member my head goes again!!

I'm determined to get a nice low seating profile in my T project. From what I can dertermin on my end...I need to extend the cowl about 8" to give me the leg room needed using a "STANDARD" body that can I can get from TP (hop, skip and jump from my home).

Next thoughts are to get the body 4" to cover the frame rails and to give an overall lower stance to the vehicle.

Frame thoughts are to keep the front pretty much "STANDARD" as other "T's"...1.5 x 3..but angle the frame out from the firewall to the back of the tub following the lower outside body line to eliminate the frame interfering with seat position/height. From the back of the tub the frame will be pulled back in and continued with a 10-12" drop.

Will install a pick-up bed on the rear....thinking about the MAS 30" one.

Also thinking about a solid fiberglass roof. LOW to give it a chopped top look. roof will be hingged to allow access into bucket then latched down in place once inside. It will also be removable.

Now these are just so random thoughts .....Any tips...tricks...advice?? Thanks!
Why do you want to channel the body 4" when you are using 1 1/2" x 3" tubing? By doing so, you have lost 1" of interior room in height. If you check the profile shot of my car that I posted yesterday on your other thread about "how low can you go", you can see that I used 1 1/2" x 3" tube and I channeled mine only 3" and the frame rail is completely covered by the body. You need every inch that you can get in these cars, especially if you are 6' or taller.
One thought that I did not mention is perhaps you are trying to get the body to sit 1" lower by channeling it 4" rather than 3". If that is the case, perhaps you should consider "Z-ing" the frame ahead of the firewall. In that way, you will achieve a body that sits lower without sacrificing interior room.
Z-ing is my plan. I want to have the car sit as low as it can but I want to make sure that my oil pan stays well above the scrub line I'm guessing a 3" channel and a 3" chassis drop by Z-ing will give the the look and the clearance I'm looking for. Steve
EX JUNK said:
One thought that I did not mention is perhaps you are trying to get the body to sit 1" lower by channeling it 4" rather than 3". If that is the case, perhaps you should consider "Z-ing" the frame ahead of the firewall. In that way, you will achieve a body that sits lower without sacrificing interior room.

Exactly...I was just trying to get away from Zn' the frame. One extra inch would all I would need to get that lower look I want and lot eaiser to drop the body than section the frame.

Plus my plan to have the frame rails follow the body line should free up some room as well.

Wish I could draw decently to show you my "PLAN" on the look of the car....but would be to darn embarrised with my chicken scratch!
Building a frame to follow the shape of your body is quiet a job. sitting down in the frame also limits your seating. Remember you will need a drive shaft Tunnel in there too. You didn't mention what engine trans combo you will be using. but if you use a 350/350, that trans gets wider when the floor goes lower.

I think you should look at a '26-7 body. The cowl is a little longer and wider than a '23.
As far as the top, I'm not sold on them. It could always be a project for after it is up and running.
Crazy me ..I always have to be different! Wish I could just settle on a BASIC build...but that would not be me!

I love challenges. I know that making a frame follow the countour is a lot of extra work..and may even reconsider...This is why I posted my thoughts on here for some "EVALUATION".

Engine will NOT be a 350....Something a little different..but not sure yet. I have to have a manual tranny...that much I know. Been thinking about an old OLDS ROCKET engine that I have access to as the power plant..but leaving options open for a few more weeks to see what else may come to the surface.

Thanks so far for all who have made suggestions!!! Really appreciate it!
If you are dead set on building that kind of frame, Go to a sheet metal shop and have them bend up some 1-3/8" X 3" channels about 5' long out of 10ga. Use those to form the bulge behind the firewall. Trace the out line on card board or on the floor. Make cuts starting at about 3'' apart and use a cabinet clamp on each end to pull it into shape. If you need a little more curve (like at the cowl), make cut in between the first ones. Don't weld any thing till you have the shape you want. Experience!!!! Once you have your shape, box the channel with another piece of 10ga.

Someone needs to dig up the pics of Stich's old bucket.

That bucket was as low as you can go and looked AWESOME.

Not much room left in the interior once the bucket is sitting really low, the transmission takes up ALL the valuable space.

I'll start digging around for pics.
Luckily I'm not DEAD SET on anything!! LOL!!

These buckets are all new to me...but fabrication is nothing really scares me.

Been doing a little more research on my end.....I have also been considering a 26-27 T type body. From the dimentions on SPEEDWAY's would fit me soooooooo much better than a std bucket. I really wanted to run a pick-up bed...but can compromise. With the additional size of the 26-27...even dropping the body a bit over the rails should still allow ample room inside.

Can't get over the additional FEE to make opening doors!!! Twice the price of the body!
If you are going to build a frame to follow the shape of your body, be sure to have the body when you start. I pinched a set of '32 rails to fit a Main Street 'glass body and found that's the only body that fits it now. I'm just about to blow the frame apart and redo it to fit a steel '27 roadster body. Huge difference!

Setting a door up in a glass body take some doin', hence the price. I charge half again as much with the door.

I followed the shape of my body on my t and it was a lot of greef espesherly when you get to the back of the boby you have to pull the chassie in to get the rear suspenshon in. I am still not happy the way it looks even now.The only plus is that it mite take some side impact in the case of an accident.
take a piece of string. go from the bottom of the lt front wheel to the bottom of the rt front wheel to the bottom of the rt rear wheel to the bottom of the lt rear wheel to the bottom of the lt front wheel. that defines scrub. anything below that is in danger of hittin the road in a tire failer situation.:sad:
Mike in ep
On the olds engine you might want to find headers first unless you are going to make zoomies.Sanderson doesnt even make sprint headers for olds.
If I go the OLDS route...I'll just weld up my own headers...wouldn't be the first time!

     Ron Pope Motorsports                Advertise with Us!