Hi all, I'm still working on my new to me T Bucket kit car. 5 speed manual, with hydraulic clutch conversion. Yes, I've bled the system. The only way I can get the clutch to disengage enough to shift into gear, is to have a lot of "pre-load" on the throw out bearing. I'm old school, and old, but there has to be clearance. I've read some places that a pre-load is required, and that the newer throw out bearings are designed to ride on the pressure plate all time. I call BS on that. Right now, I have a 7/8" master, and 7/8" slave. I have a 1" master to try, and a pull type slave coming to tinker with. There is a possibility that something isn't right with the clutch arm and the pivot, etc. etc. ? Please tell me I'm not cwazy for insisting on some free play on the clutch. I'll do some measuring later, but looks like I'm getting at least 1" movement at the arm. First thing I'm going to do is see how much movement my slave has, and go from there.
Throw out bearing clearance
- Thread starter cootertwo
- Start date
RodStRace
Active Member
From your description, you do not have enough throwout bearing travel between fully released and fully engaged.
I can see two ways to go;
1. Dive in, do the math and select components that match the physical dimensions and load bearing requirements.
You will need to consider the following: Clutch pedal length, ratio and travel, Master cylinder bore, travel and mount, Bellhousing dimensions, clutch fork dimensions and ratio OR if internal, throwout bearing dimensions and internal sizing. If using a fork, the throwout measurements and the slave cylinder bore and travel, Flywheel and clutch type and size, along with released and engaged lengths.
2. Call the companies that have done all that and have them select matching components to assemble into a system that works for you to purchase.
If you are reusing the flywheel, clutch, bellhousing, fork, pedal, master or slave cylinders, you will need to provide them with the identification of these parts. There is no getting around this, you must know what each part is being used or replace everything.
The other option (?) is to ask a bunch of goofballs online and get a bunch of different answers and choose one or a mix of the answers. This will provide no guarantees or after sale service and tech help. Unless the responder also has a T-Bucket with the same parts (engine with similar output, plus all the other parts mentioned), they will be guesses.
I agree that a clutch should release fully and have enough travel to move the throwout bearing into contact with the clutch and engage it enough to provide a gap between the clutch and disc that is in the specifications and allows proper shifting.
I tried to find a decent video for you. There is a ton of AI slop and very generic videos from India.,
This one seems to cover the basics.
I can see two ways to go;
1. Dive in, do the math and select components that match the physical dimensions and load bearing requirements.
You will need to consider the following: Clutch pedal length, ratio and travel, Master cylinder bore, travel and mount, Bellhousing dimensions, clutch fork dimensions and ratio OR if internal, throwout bearing dimensions and internal sizing. If using a fork, the throwout measurements and the slave cylinder bore and travel, Flywheel and clutch type and size, along with released and engaged lengths.
2. Call the companies that have done all that and have them select matching components to assemble into a system that works for you to purchase.
If you are reusing the flywheel, clutch, bellhousing, fork, pedal, master or slave cylinders, you will need to provide them with the identification of these parts. There is no getting around this, you must know what each part is being used or replace everything.
The other option (?) is to ask a bunch of goofballs online and get a bunch of different answers and choose one or a mix of the answers. This will provide no guarantees or after sale service and tech help. Unless the responder also has a T-Bucket with the same parts (engine with similar output, plus all the other parts mentioned), they will be guesses.
I agree that a clutch should release fully and have enough travel to move the throwout bearing into contact with the clutch and engage it enough to provide a gap between the clutch and disc that is in the specifications and allows proper shifting.
I tried to find a decent video for you. There is a ton of AI slop and very generic videos from India.,
This one seems to cover the basics.
Thanks, I just need to get under there, and try to see what's what. Hoping to avoid pulling the engine, to get to the clutch assembly. I have one of those scope camera things I can run into the side opening of the bell housing, and get a pretty good look at the internals. I'm old and feeble, so appreciate any advice, good or bad, and sort things out from there. I'll get-r-done soon. This is going to be my sorta daily driver. Love the wind in the face, and I don't have to put my feet down at red lights or stop signs !!! Ha! I have a pull type slave coming tomorrow. Looks like it may have more travel than the push slave I have now. We'll see. 
Interesting video....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZfM95ZFLxWM
Interesting video....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZfM95ZFLxWM
I used to have a old Chevy truck with a STOCK juice clutch. It worked great!! It had an external slave cylinder pushing on the fork instead of the typical clutch pedal push rod and a dual reservoir brake/clutch master. What do you have? Stock parts cobbled together or a mix of aftermarket parts? Like what was said before, you're going to have to identify every part that you have either for us or for the parts guy (or gal) . PICTURES would help a bunch!!
RodStRace
Active Member
Point one - The travel length is helpful.
Pint two - Well, there you go, that specific setup does require the throwout to ride on the pressure plate.
Point three - He points out that length of travel varies depending on where on the fork it's measured. That's that ratio that is so important!
Provided that your parts MATCH the ones shown, this should get you enough to troubleshoot.
I'll mention something else that is different between brake experience and hyd clutches. It's not obvious until you think about it.
Brakes have a lot of extra margin of safety built in. When everything is properly set up and adjusted, the pedal only travels part of the full stroke. Even a power brake pedal still is not going to the floor. This means that when bleeding, you push more fluid through the system and it will take fewer pumps to fill the system. It also gives you the feedback he mentions. On a clutch, the system is designed and sized so the full travel is used every time. The master only pushes enough fluid to move the slave, no extra. So it take a lot longer if you are bleeding using the pedal and you don't get that feedback. This is why using a power bleeder or vacuum bleeding has a higher success rate. You are able to move more fluid.
Pint two - Well, there you go, that specific setup does require the throwout to ride on the pressure plate.
Point three - He points out that length of travel varies depending on where on the fork it's measured. That's that ratio that is so important!
Provided that your parts MATCH the ones shown, this should get you enough to troubleshoot.
I'll mention something else that is different between brake experience and hyd clutches. It's not obvious until you think about it.
Brakes have a lot of extra margin of safety built in. When everything is properly set up and adjusted, the pedal only travels part of the full stroke. Even a power brake pedal still is not going to the floor. This means that when bleeding, you push more fluid through the system and it will take fewer pumps to fill the system. It also gives you the feedback he mentions. On a clutch, the system is designed and sized so the full travel is used every time. The master only pushes enough fluid to move the slave, no extra. So it take a lot longer if you are bleeding using the pedal and you don't get that feedback. This is why using a power bleeder or vacuum bleeding has a higher success rate. You are able to move more fluid.
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