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To vent or not to vent

Derek

New Member
I've been talking with a few engine folks out there and still don't have a clear understanding of the need. I'm going to use a remanufactured Chevy 305 in my bucket and want to get a pair of old cast aluminum Corvette valve covers to top it off.

In Virginia I don't have to worry about emissions laws with this build and my engine block is remanufactured with new rings on the pistons. So what will happen if I forgo the vents and use a pair of unvented valve covers?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Derek
 

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I've been talking with a few engine folks out there and still don't have a clear understanding of the need. I'm going to use a remanufactured Chevy 305 in my bucket and want to get a pair of old cast aluminum Corvette valve covers to top it off.

In Virginia I don't have to worry about emissions laws with this build and my engine block is remanufactured with new rings on the pistons. So what will happen if I forgo the vents and use a pair of unvented valve covers?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Derek

Derek you will still need some kind of Vent system, or you will have more oil leaks than you know what to do with...... You could use a vented intake manifold, one with the old vent pipe and breather cap, that would help.... Some sort of vent is needed to relieve the internal pressures of the rotating assembly ...... "BH"
 
If it were a perfect world, your engine would have 0% leakdown. But this old world isn't perfect, which means you are going to have compression bypass the rings and pressurize the crankcase.

You can leave a breather out of the equation, which means crankcase pressure will find some other means to vent itself. It may test the integrity of your timing cover seal, your rear main seal, or perhaps the fit between your dipstick and dipstick tube. The pressure has to go somewhere. And any pressure that got past the rings on a compression stroke will get back past the rings on an intake stroke, contaminating your intake charge. And do you really want to pull the distributor or a valve cover, just to add a quart of oil when the motor needs it? :jawdrop:

We run external vacuum pumps on the drag motors and an additional dry sump pump stage on the oval track motors, just to pull a vacuum in the pan when we're using low tension rings. It helps keep the top rings stable, so they will seal. But it also helps keep the oil ring from being flooded with oil. So much so that we would have to crank up pump pressures a bit to adequately oil the wrist pins. After running a motor with vacuum in the crankcase, you could pull the heads and the piston domes and chambers would look s-w-e-e-t.

The reason your valve covers have no breather holes is down to the early model motors having breather caps on the old-style front fill tube and road draft tubes. Your 305 with an intake built in the last 30+ years will have no provisions for either. Put a PCV valve in one cover and a breather in another and you should have a pretty clean installations. The vacuum signal on the PCV valve will pull air into the breather on the opposite side and you won't have to worry about oily breathers.
 
Dad's '27 (the red one) is running vintage cal-custom valve covers with no breathers on a 350. He is running a vent tube and breather on the front, which many older aftermarket intakes still have bosses for--you just need to drill it out. He also has drilled a hole for a PCV valve grommet on the side of one valve cover near the intake manifold. It is inconspicuous and it maintains the "old school" look.

red27.jpg
 
I've been talking with a few engine folks out there and still don't have a clear understanding of the need. I'm going to use a remanufactured Chevy 305 in my bucket and want to get a pair of old cast aluminum Corvette valve covers to top it off.

In Virginia I don't have to worry about emissions laws with this build and my engine block is remanufactured with new rings on the pistons. So what will happen if I forgo the vents and use a pair of unvented valve covers?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Derek

One more thing...The valve covers in your pic are the early style (up to mid '59 or so) with offset bolt holes and will not bolt to the later sbc heads. You need the ones that the top and bottom bolt holes are aligned.
 
I have a '70 350, with Moon finned covers, and an early Edelbrock intake with the fill tube. The PCV valve is drilled in under the coil, behind the carb.


41810017.jpg
 
Look in Ecklers corvette catalog. They have the oil fill tubes, caps and pcv valve set up that went on a 66 (I think) or so vette. Don't even THINK about running the engine without some type of breather. Good luck. Bob
 
One more thing...The valve covers in your pic are the early style (up to mid '59 or so) with offset bolt holes and will not bolt to the later sbc heads. You need the ones that the top and bottom bolt holes are aligned.
Good catch. I hadn't even bothered to look at the attachment.

Derek, do not drill those covers. As benT pointed out, the covers will not bolt onto a late head. And those pre-59 covers are likely worth a healthy chunk of change.
 

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