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To Zinc or not to Zinc

KPoole9008

New Member
As I have stated before, I have a new GM crate engine. I have read several articles both for and against adding a Zinc additive to my oil. I will be running Castrol 10 w 30 in the engine both for break in and afterwards. Do I need the Zinc additive or not. Thanks
 
As I have stated before, I have a new GM crate engine. I have read several articles both for and against adding a Zinc additive to my oil. I will be running Castrol 10 w 30 in the engine both for break in and afterwards. Do I need the Zinc additive or not. Thanks

If you have flat tappets I would say definitely.
 
As I have stated before, I have a new GM crate engine. I have read several articles both for and against adding a Zinc additive to my oil. I will be running Castrol 10 w 30 in the engine both for break in and afterwards. Do I need the Zinc additive or not. Thanks

If your engine uses roller lifters you don't really need the added Z. but if it's a flat tappet motor then YES. especially for break in. I put some in during every oil change for my 377 sbc (flat tappet) Fiero. but that's just me.

Russ
 
If you're using Rotella, be sure you are checking the rating on the can. You're looking for a CI-4 rating, which is going to be fairly old oil by now. If the can has a CJ-4 rating, your not getting the zinc you thought you were.

If you're flush and can find a local dealer, use Brad Penn break-in oil. Take a big wallet with you, when you go to make the purchase. :rolleyes:
 
i have not started my motor yet but was wondering what the benifit of zinc is/ used for??


When people discuss Zinc, what we're actually talking about are Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates (often referred to as ZDDP). it's a combination of additives added to motor oil as a wear inhibitor. among other things it builds up a sacrificial layer of material on metal parts to reduce wear on those parts (read "cam lobes and lifters"). It was once a normal part of our motor oil until someone determined that it reduced the life of our catalitic converters to only 150,000 miles or so, so of course it had to be eliminated at once. :rolleyes:

Russ
 
As blownt pointed out, people could once use diesel oils, particularly Shell's Rotella, as it had a fairly high level of zinc. As the powers that be continue to push for reduced emissions, even diesel engine manufacturers have had to start meeting guidelines. As a result, zinc content is becoming a thing of the past.

Which makes one ponder a bit - will Tipper get 1/2 of Al Gore's carbon credits as part of the divorce settlement? :rolleyes:
 
The Rotella T straight 30 weigth meets CF-4 rating. Not CJ, not CI. Don't know what that means for ZDDP. Maybe one of the experts here can comment. Since I don't plan to drive an unheated, open car in cold weather, probably don't need the multi-weight oil anyway.
 
The CF API rating is old enough it may still contain ZDDP. Does the can/bottle mention ZDDP content? Most oils that still offer a high PPM count of ZDDP will proudly proclaim it to the world.

What you're looking for is an oil with a ZDDP number around 1200 Parts Per Million. Most of the later 'Cx' rated oils are down below 800 PPM these days.
 
The CF API rating is old enough it may still contain ZDDP. Does the can/bottle mention ZDDP content? Most oils that still offer a high PPM count of ZDDP will proudly proclaim it to the world.

What you're looking for is an oil with a ZDDP number around 1200 Parts Per Million. Most of the later 'Cx' rated oils are down below 800 PPM these days.

I just got off the phone with Castrol(BP) and they said the Syntec 20W50 has 1200 ppm of ZDDP and that is what they recommend for these older engines.
 
When I bought the Isky cam for my 1964 409, it came with a tag recommending Brad Penn.
 
Mike, What do you think about the fact that I have always added a quart of tranny fluid in every oil change in my Chevy engine in my T Bucket, I was told that it is very good at both cleaning a lube in the trans, Plus especially good for those engines that use juice lifters.. ?? I know it would not be good for Cats, but I am not running one/any... :)
 
Ted, ATF is nothing more than a very high detergent mineral oil. If you are following a good maintenance schedule with your oil changes, it's likely a waste of ATF. Back in the day, we would always run Type-F fluid in the A/ED trans as it picked up the friction coefficient numbers. Which tells me that may not have been real good stuff in the oil pan.

This was a good place to be, if you were running an automatic in a drag car, as Steve Griner Engineering is owned and operated by a hometown boy. When we first built the car, we figured a T-400 was the way to go. :) Heck, we didn't know any better. (OK, how many of you have built a record-holding Comp Eliminator dragster in a one car garage? And I do mean 'built', as in chassis and all!) And 3-4 years before anyone even knew what they were, we had an internal trans-brake on that car. The people that paid attention were always driving themselves berserk, trying to figure out how we could stall the car like that, yet there was no external drum on the output shaft. :wolf: We had a delay box on the car prior to anyone marketing commercial boxes (yeah, we should have marketed them!). When most people were still trying to understand what an MSD box was, we were running an LED/photo-transistor crank trigger with a home-brew multi-firing capacitive discharge box. That car was about 10 years ahead of its time and we were too stupid to realize it. Ahhhh, but I digress...

For those that are considering the use of ATF to clean a poorly-maintained engine, remember you stand the chance of a lot of 'things' and 'stuff' blocking the oil pump pick-up screen and/or making its way into the pump body. How many barber-pole Ford oil pump drives have you seen in your day? :winkn:

For those wondering about what brand ATF to use in a trans, the answer is the cheapest stuff you can buy. It will work as well as the high dollar stuff claims to work.
 
How many barber-pole Ford oil pump drives have you seen in your day? :)


I've had one of those in my toolbox for years.
 
And when you see the tiny speck of valve seal that locked up the pump, you are speechless. :)

Yep, it was the first one I pulled apart at 19, that was way to many years ago.
 
Been working great for me, for over 40 years now, like I said, tis wonderful for Pont. juice lifters, and will stop an early (55-56 type) Olds engine that has real clicky lifters, only takes about a week to quiet it right down... May be old fashioned, but works it's stuff for me... Never drive faster than your Angel can fly... :)
 
Been working great for me, for over 40 years now, like I said, tis wonderful for Pont. juice lifters, and will stop an early (55-56 type) Olds engine that has real clicky lifters, only takes about a week to quiet it right down... May be old fashioned, but works it's stuff for me... Never drive faster than your Angel can fly... :)


I've used 1/2 qt in an oil change also, to remove varnish and quiet sticky lifters. it an engine had sludge enough to cause plugging problems then you'd have issues bigger than sticking lifters anyway I recon' . :)

Russ
 

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