Water pump woes

[AusBucket]

In that case, as a short term fix CRC do a product called Belt Grip, that should sort out the slipping till you can do something permanent about it.

 

[Indycars]

I'm running two belts on a HO CS-144 alternator and it turns it easily. The belts only have to be snug
and it works. Doesn't take up any more room when you are concerned about the overall length.


.

 

[choppinczech]

Indy, did you change the alternator's pulley or did it come with a double groove one?

 

[SSpev]

put the alternator on the other side where there is more room. the drive pulley will be pulling on the alt in stead of the WP

 

[Spanky]

put the alternator on the other side where there is more room. the drive pulley will be pulling on the alt in stead of the WP

No room on the driver side with the steering box there.

 

[Indycars]

Indy, did you change the alternator's pulley or did it come with a double groove one?

Since I had it built by an individual, I bought the pulley and had it shipped to him. Can't find
the PN, but I did find this interesting info from my post on another forum.

Belt Load Limitations

Drive belt width is a critical factor in selecting a replacement alternator.
Commonly-installed vee-belts and multi-groove serpentine belts have specific
limits regarding the amperage and horsepower loads they can support.

As a rule of thumb, 12-volt alternators use one horsepower for every 25 amps
of output, or to put it another way, their ratio of output to horsepower load is
25:1. So, when selecting a new alternator, you need to size it for the limits of
the capacity of its drive belt. Otherwise, your system will be plagued by
premature belt wear, belt slippage and potential damage to your alternator
and engine.

See the following chart, and note that dual vee-belts and serpentine belts can
support much larger loads.

Selecting an Alternator | West Marine

 

[Indycars]

My belt layout . . .

View attachment 18869

You can change your configuration or add a belt tensioner, but adding a 2nd belt is going to
double your amount of contact with EVERY pulley.

I had the pivot bolt break and never knew it until I was doing something else and noticed. Of
course that all depends on what electrical loads that are running. My electric fan seldom runs,
so I can't say what the actual load on the belts were.

But I don't have to worry, two belts are always going to carry any load my TBucket can put
on those vee-belts.

 

[SSpev]

No room on the driver side with the steering box there.

View attachment 18903

Shoot. how about a high mount like origanal 60s 327.
That is a neat table, but here is more to it than that. It just like tire traction. more contact patch prevents slipage. AND in this case
the alternator is trying to keep up with the crank. There is some amount of stretch on the pull/long side. A loaded alternator is minutely slower than the crank so there is a slight slack between the two. This is the slip. solution - more rap, bigger belt, less power draw, tighter tension, move alternator

 

[SSpev]

my setup is the same just on the other side. no slip

 

[Spanky]

Shoot. how about a high mount like origanal 60s 327.

I really dislike the high mount look, but . . . I may have to go that way eventually. Right now the CRC belt dressing suggested by AusBucket seems to be working.

 

[Neshkoro]

The belt dressing does seem to work for a while. Then the dressing itself begins to make noise. Kind of like gym shoes on a tile floor.

 

[lincolnuT]

Also you will want to clean it off very often cause the buildup you will not like I am sure...….That stuff will sling every where...….Don't ask me how I know this...…….

 

[fletcherson]

You could also change pulley diameters, but the dual belt setup looks promising. If bone yard shopping doesn’t suit you, there are lots of vendors willing to relieve you of your hard earned money in exchange for some shiny aluminum pulleys. My IROC always squealed the belt when it was first started and the alternator draw was high or when I really lit into it. It had a serpentine system. I just lived with it.

 

[Spanky]

If bone yard shopping doesn’t suit you, there are lots of vendors willing to relieve you of your hard earned money in exchange for some shiny aluminum pulleys.

Age and mobility issues keep me mostly out of the bone yards these days, but I'll be darned if I'll pay $60 per pulley from the speed parts vendors.

 

[Neshkoro]

That's the dilemma we face. I know where you're at Spanky. There are things I used to do myself and now it's either I pay or they don't get done!

 

[old round fart]

Check Speedway. You may be able to get chrome pulleys there.
Chrome pulleys | Speedway Motors, The Racing and Rodding Specialists

 

[T-Test]

If any remember "Cookieman" he was adamant about NOT using aluminum pulleys as you could never keep belts tight or from slipping. I changed mine and my belt problems disappeared.
Chrome steel or painted is the best. JMTCW

 

[Spanky]

So, today went on a brief cruise. Last time I took it out, I sprayed the belt with CRC after startup, and again when I came home. Today, no spray and no squeal. However, I did notice that the volt meter only read about 12 volts for the first mile or so, then it crept up to about 12.5, and finally about 13.3. It maintained that for the rest of the cruise. I guess the only permanent solution is either double-groove pulleys, or a high mount on the driver side.

 

[choppedtop]

You did mean volts instead of amps?

 

[fletcherson]

Age and mobility issues keep me mostly out of the bone yards these days, but I'll be darned if I'll pay $60 per pulley from the speed parts vendors.

I get it. I do see them often on market place, eBay, Craig’s list, swap meets, etc. Maybe figure out what you want to go with and watch for a used set? There are also different belt compounds. Perhaps try a clutching belt or Kevlar, etc and see if it resolves the issue... just a thought.