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What is it?

I agree with you Bob. I have watched quite a few races and the suspension travels a great deal more than 1/2". If you have watched any NASCAR, when they let off coming into the corner the front end must drop at least 2" or better. I'm sure that there would be a lot of race cars using a straight axle if it handled better than an independent. Just look at any Formula car, Indy car, NASCAR or Modified to name but a few.

Jim
 
Noob said:
has anyone seen an article on the mechanics of friction shocks?

Friction shocks don't seem to be "shocks" at all since they don't really have much ability to absorb spring rebound energy. Actually, if rubber is used as the friction device, it can contribute to spring oscillation. As the lever arm moves upward on suspension compression, it "twist" the friction material which then want to rebound, pushing the lever downward at the same time the suspension is rebounding. Worse yet, it's not possible to tune a friction shock to differentiate between spring compression and extension. This precludes the ability to bias the shock metering to allow less damping during compression, and more during rebound where it's really needed.

Bob
 
Not sure about the 1/2" (,50") travel but on the speedway cars they run very high front spring rates at almost coil bind. Very little front end travel. I'll see if I can find the article I read about this. Also, I'll be talking to Stock car Products tomorrow and I'll ask them about it.

George
 
This is how i mounted my Pete n Jakes shocks. And they work SWEET
 
rooster57 said:
This is how i mounted my Pete n Jakes shocks. And they work SWEET

How do the lower mounts hook up? are they on the radius rods?
 
Noob said:
How do the lower mounts hook up? are they on the radius rods?
The radius rods are a great place to mount the lower shock mount, another 2 in 1 bracket... :rofl:
A younger fellow came to me and asked if I could help him fix his T Bucket...
He had hit a speed bump and bent one and broke the other (ft. shock mounts) plus put a hole in his oil pan (Alum) which I suggested he change to a steel stock pan, which, luckily he still had..
Well I added a skid plate (1/8" steel plate to the bottom) after cutting off a full inch to make it level and a tiny bit shorter, and to move the drain plug to the rear. this also gave him a bit more ground clearance. (you don't want go higher than the flywheel/flex-plate)

I said that "you went over that speed bump straight on didn't you?" he said "yes", I told him that was a big mistake, because hitting any type of bump or dip with both tires at the very same time, bottoms out your suspension, and will either break something, and/or put your front end out of alinement right now... (this is also real bad for IFS on late model cars)
I said the cure for those type of dips and bumps is to take then at an angle, one tire at a time, (if not much maneuvering room, even a slight angle works wonders) the more angle you can hit them at, the less the severity of the hit, you can turn them into a gentle roll with enough angle... even with a motor cycle, the dips and bumps turn into easy rolls...
This is just one of the things that I teach a new T Bucket owner/driver, after building them a new car, and before I let them drive it on their own... After that, it is your baby, you break her, it will cost you to fix the problem... Ride safe:)
 
I am reading the post, you all talk about pic, hey that looks great or look at that rake, but I don't find a way to see the pics, Help!!! Thanks George.
 
Hi George, and welcome. :spank: For pics I think the best bet is to check out the gallery. Also check out this tread. You can also start your own tread asking for a certain type of pic, IE profile pics or shock pics.
 

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