Altering trans tunnel

[rubicon]

I would like to alter the trans tunnel cutting it flush with the floor and shorten its length. replace the cut out portion with a bolt in cover. I would like to have more room between the seat and the end of the tunnel. I would also move my shifter closer to the dash. Would this weaken the body by not glassing in the cover. I will try to send pics if I can remember how I did it the last time.

 

[2old2fast]

There's not much weight carried by the front floor once you're seated, I doubt it would cause a problem. Should the modification prove the floor a little "flexy" , you could incorporate a cross brace in that area...
dave

 

[Gerry]

As above.
A bolt in cover will help the flex a little. Old times I seen lots of Ts with no floor to speak of in them, just a thin bit of plywood, open around the trans.

 

[rubicon]

The taped area is what I would like to cut out and change. Move shifter closer to firewall, make a cover, bolt it to the floor and trans tunnel. The taped area is just a rough idea.

 

[golddredger]

No reason why that wont work at all. I would cut my own down the same. Just make sure you have a good 1/2" clearance between the tunnel and the trans in the end.

 

[2old2fast]

I see a bolt behind the trans hump , if that's bolted to a crossmember/support , then you'll have no difficulty doing what you want. Is that one of CCR's floors , if so ask them ...
dave

 

[tfeverfred]

I used a piece of aluminum on mine, didn't weaken the floor at all.

 

[RESINATOR]

It will not be an issue of strength if it is bolted in or re-glassed The normal location for the shifter in our door body tunnel is around 4" forward of where you have it, where the flat spot is . there is some markings on the bottom of the body if that works. If you go too far forward it will limit the travel on the shift arm. We have another bolt-in tunnel that is smaller and should mate up fairly well to that tunnel/floor.

 

[rubicon]

Thanks for the info. I will start in the morning cutting it out. working on the windshield post at the same time.

 

[PotvinGuy]

When I raised the motor and tranny, I just got rid of the hump and painted the tranny:

 

[butch27]

How thick is that floor in your car?

 

[Zandoz]

When I raised the motor and tranny, I just got rid of the hump and painted the tranny:

I briefly had a '48 Jeep with a flathead V8 that the original owner went with the same solution...and he even mounted the gas pedal to a couple of the bellhousing bolts. I had no actual problems with the set up, but it bugged me. I ended up not keeping it long enough to get around to doing something about it.

 

[PotvinGuy]

I think it's 3/4 plywood with 'glass over it. And some structural members run beneath it.

 

[butch27]

I'm thinking just 5/8" plywood and about 3 layers of glass. My other bucket body weighs a bunch with the 3/4" and too much wood. Need to cut some wooding weight down this time.

 

[RPM]

Why are you so concerned about the weight?

 

[2old2fast]

So , you're gonna save maybe a pound between 5/8 & 3/4 ? Welll, maybe...
dave

 

[fletcherson]

I used exterior 1/2" ply with two layers of biaxial on each side... Rock solid. It ended up being about 13/16"- 1", a little thinner in the center, a little thicker at the edges where it's bonded and laminated to the body, zero flex, or at least not perceivable. My body is fairly heavy compared to what I started with, but it's very strong, doesn't flex much, has steel supports, etc... I think it's at least a couple hundred pounds, I can lift it, but it's cumbersome to install and remove from the frame without help. I feel it will be more safe, comfortable, and the added weight is minimal in the big picture. Basically a passenger. Jmo I seriously doubt the 427 will notice. It's no longer a drag car, lol. I think the added weight will actually benefit me because it's centered, and will help the springs function and improve the ride and handling quality.

 

[RPM]

So , you're gonna save maybe a pound between 5/8 & 3/4 ? Welll, maybe...
dave

I looked up plywood weight and a 4x8 sheet of 5/8 weighs 48 lbs and a the 3/4 weighs 60. So 12 lbs for a whole sheet and it takes less than 1/2 a sheet so a weight savings of about 4 lbs, using 5/8 vs 3/4.

 

[tfeverfred]

K.I.S.S.

 

[fletcherson]

I used exterior 1/2" ply with two layers of biaxial on each side... Rock solid. It ended up being about 13/16"- 1", a little thinner in the center, a little thicker at the edges where it's bonded and laminated to the body, zero flex, or at least not perceivable. My body is fairly heavy compared to what I started with, but it's very strong, doesn't flex much, has steel supports, etc... I think it's at least a couple hundred pounds, I can lift it, but it's cumbersome to install and remove from the frame without help. I feel it will be more safe, comfortable, and the added weight is minimal in the big picture. Basically a passenger. Jmo I seriously doubt the 427 will notice. It's no longer a drag car, lol. I think the added weight will actually benefit me because it's centered, and will help the springs function and improve the ride and handling quality.

P

I looked up plywood weight and a 4x8 sheet of 5/8 weighs 48 lbs and a the 3/4 weighs 60. So 12 lbs for a whole sheet and it takes less than 1/2 a sheet so a weight savings of about 4 lbs, using 5/8 vs 3/4.

I chose the thin ply because I was trying to keep the thickness down because I didn't want to complicate the door openings at the bottom, which turned out to be a moot point because I ended up eliminating the reveals, but the rigidity of the thicker plywood is well worth the weight in my opinion, even if only for the build process. I really fought to keep the 1/2" from warping and flexing during the build. After glassed, not an issue, but a consideration for guys starting out. I ended up building a jig and pre glassing one layer on each side to firm the floor up enough to properly fit it and attach it to the body. I doubt that step would have been necessary with 3/4" ply. And with a standard body, I only used about a third sheet for the actual floor.