body to frame bolts
- Thread starter Johnny
- Start date
EX JUNK
Moderator
I would not suggest tapping a frame rail that is less than 3/16" thick. I used four countersunk 5/16" bolts per side on my car and all the bolts go through a 4"x4"x3/16" plate that is glassed into the fiberglass floor. I also have a 1/4"rubber strip that runs the width of the rail for the length of the body.
Here are a couple of links that may help you select a tap and the proper sized tap drill.
http://www.tapmatic.com/tech_manual/tap_recommendations.html
http://www.efunda.com/designstandards/screws/tapdrill.cfm
Here is about the only picture that I have that shows the mounting bolts.
I hope that I have been of some help to you.
Jim
blownt
Member
I used some scrap 2"x3" tubing and cut two pieces about 3" long. Cut those on a diagonal and got four trianglar shaped brackets that I welded to the sides of the frame for body mounts. Then used four 1/2" thick carriage bolts and big washers on top of the floor.
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad249/blownt/chasis20.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad249/blownt/Chasis16.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad249/blownt/chasis20.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad249/blownt/Chasis16.jpg
AZCOWBO
Member
I used 6 - 3/16" counter sunk bolts, expanding body-to-frame grommets, which can be ordered from Speedway. Do to the rear kick in the frame, I made doughnuts from an old tire and used as spacers to obtain the body-to-frame clearance, I needed.
Johnny
Member
I like this idea, but I don't weld. I guess I could make those type mounts and bolt them to the frame. Man, it sucks not being able to weld!
benT
Active Member
Speedway has these expandable body mounting nuts which look like what you're talking about, although I personally wouldn't trust my body mounting to them. I still like a through bolt to a gusseted frame tab.
You can find them here: BODY MOUNT
The rubber body mounts are what I call well nuts and are usually available at Ace Hardware or Homely Depot, etc.
I wish I had a body to mount but when I get around to having one, I'll probably use these well nuts. To increase the amount of the contact area of the mount to the frame, I would weld short pieces of steel tubing into the frame into which I woulld insert the well nuts. The tubing should be close to the same diameter as the diameter of the well nut shank, but maybe 25% shorter than the length of the shank to allow for expansion when a bolt is tightened into it. Did I say that right?
I make things more complicated as seems to be my nature. I would make the steel tubes 10% longer than the shank and machine a tapered counterbore in one end. I'd then weld a disc over that end of the tube and then weld the tubes into the frame. This is now a closed tube. The tapered counter bore accomodates expansion of the well nut and if I do get water in that area, it would not settle in the frame rails. Yes Paris, the water will collect in the tubes, so I'll fill them with silicone caulk to prevent water accumulation.
Yup, I make my stuff complicated so no one thinks I bought it at J.C. Whitney.
I wish I had a body to mount but when I get around to having one, I'll probably use these well nuts. To increase the amount of the contact area of the mount to the frame, I would weld short pieces of steel tubing into the frame into which I woulld insert the well nuts. The tubing should be close to the same diameter as the diameter of the well nut shank, but maybe 25% shorter than the length of the shank to allow for expansion when a bolt is tightened into it. Did I say that right?
I make things more complicated as seems to be my nature. I would make the steel tubes 10% longer than the shank and machine a tapered counterbore in one end. I'd then weld a disc over that end of the tube and then weld the tubes into the frame. This is now a closed tube. The tapered counter bore accomodates expansion of the well nut and if I do get water in that area, it would not settle in the frame rails. Yes Paris, the water will collect in the tubes, so I'll fill them with silicone caulk to prevent water accumulation.
Yup, I make my stuff complicated so no one thinks I bought it at J.C. Whitney.
blownt
Member
Take another look at the picture posted by Track T.
Look just beyond the left front wheel of the T. Is that a body covered by a sheet?
Let's face it gents, these cars we love really don't have any safety features to brag about.
What good is a parachute if you can't open the door or get the canopy off?
What good are seat belts bolted only to the body?
I'm now thinking the hell with the well nuts, unless I used a too many of'em.
My seats and belts will be firmly anchored to the frame, not the floor or body
And, while not designed or sourced, I will also have a collapsible steering column and a crush zone dash.... I'm working on that item.
Do you know what my uncle said after his cow died? Gee, that never happened before.
Look just beyond the left front wheel of the T. Is that a body covered by a sheet?
Let's face it gents, these cars we love really don't have any safety features to brag about.
What good is a parachute if you can't open the door or get the canopy off?
What good are seat belts bolted only to the body?
I'm now thinking the hell with the well nuts, unless I used a too many of'em.
My seats and belts will be firmly anchored to the frame, not the floor or body
And, while not designed or sourced, I will also have a collapsible steering column and a crush zone dash.... I'm working on that item.
Do you know what my uncle said after his cow died? Gee, that never happened before.
blownt
Member
Not saying don't to go with a collapsing column or soft dash, but I think that is alittle overkill for a bucket. These are not your daily modern drivers with crush zones, safety coccoons, air bags, etc.... These safety questions have been brought up many many times in the past. Especially the seatbelt debate - whether to have them and whether to mount to the frame or body. Many want them mounted to the body and many say the frame. You want them mounted to the frame. That is fine, just make sure your body does not copy the example shown in the picture above. If so there will be TWO very bloody sheets. I am of the opinion that seatbelts in a bucket are mainly to keep you inside if you hit sometime (say under 15 mph) or you hit a road bump that wants to throw you out. If you have a major accident in a bucket I feel you will not survive anyway, so a collaping column or soft dash will not matter in the least. I consider T buckets and motorcycles about equal in the accident department, and I do not see many seatbelts on a motorcycle.
just my 2 cents....
and I do not care at all for the expanding rubber body mounts. Use a rigid metal mount, 1/2" minimum hardware and big@ss washers.
just my 2 cents....
and I do not care at all for the expanding rubber body mounts. Use a rigid metal mount, 1/2" minimum hardware and big@ss washers.
Johnny
Member
Yeah, that's probably what I will do. Former Harley rider and you're right about seatbelts.
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