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Change of engine direction

Dan Noecker

Member
I have decided to go with a big block chevy, instead of the small block. I found on craigslist a 1991 chevy 454 block, heads, and crank for $250. The block is 4-bolt main, with a standard bore. The heads are oval port, open chamber. While I plan to go with Edelbrock heads to save weight, I felt the $250 for everything is a good price.
 
Sounds like you got a good deal there.
One thing I am trying to do with my car is to be different and to pay close attention to detail. A 454 with a nice dual quad setup is for sure not what you see everyday. I am having a lot of fun building my car.
 
One thing I am trying to do with my car is to be different and to pay close attention to detail. A 454 with a nice dual quad setup is for sure not what you see everyday. I am having a lot of fun building my car.
I hear ya! That's why I am building a 427-4 speed car... Different than most.
 
Good deal. Around here that package is $1,200-1,400.
 
I would be interested in what you will be using for the transmission and your clutch assembly. I like your ideas here.
I can't take total credit, it was built back in the late 70's and stored since. It's a '67 427 with a super t10. Currently has a 456 spool in a '58-'64 GM front loader, but that's going to be changed to a posi unit with shorter gears, once I do all of the math. The bell housing is a '55 Chevy cast mid mount unit, but could be any standard bell housing because the mid mounts aren't used. It has a aluminum flywheel with a single plate, dry clutch. It's a linkage clutch with a clutch arm. I did have to get creative to build pedals, linkage, and a bell crank, but it all worked out well. The car had mid mount steering and the pedals were back too close to the seat. I had to re configure all of the controls, seat, steering, etc to make it driveable for me. The shifter is a hurst comp plus, like what was used in the '55 chevy's, etc, but the shifter arm was too close and crowded my leg. I ended up sacrificing a Muncie reverse lockout shifter from a '60's vette and cut the shifter arms from both, and welded the Muncie arm assembly to the hurst. It has a perfect bend and length to it, and comes up on the right side of the tail shaft, leaving pleanty of room for me to drive and shift, and room for my petite wife to ride along if she elects to do so, lol... Or my best buddy, Sprocket, my bull mastiff/pit mix. I have a bunch of pictures that I will be adding the the "fletchersons t" build thread soon. I am not real good about documenting everything... There is some good stuff if you are considering a similar feat. If you want, I can post pics and details of what I came up with, but it's tailored to my specific chassis. I don't know how large you are, but there is limited space in a standard body to get all of the controls in and still be able to comfortably drive it if you are larger like me, not huge, just full frame. I was thinking about using a hydraulic clutch system with a hydraulic throw out bearing, but the space required for the master cylinders, etc under the floor prohibited it. You may be able to do that, depending on your cross member position, etc. good luck with your build! I will look forwards to watching.
 
I can't take total credit, it was built back in the late 70's and stored since. It's a '67 427 with a super t10. Currently has a 456 spool in a '58-'64 GM front loader, but that's going to be changed to a posi unit with shorter gears, once I do all of the math. The bell housing is a '55 Chevy cast mid mount unit, but could be any standard bell housing because the mid mounts aren't used. It has a aluminum flywheel with a single plate, dry clutch. It's a linkage clutch with a clutch arm. I did have to get creative to build pedals, linkage, and a bell crank, but it all worked out well. The car had mid mount steering and the pedals were back too close to the seat. I had to re configure all of the controls, seat, steering, etc to make it driveable for me. The shifter is a hurst comp plus, like what was used in the '55 chevy's, etc, but the shifter arm was too close and crowded my leg. I ended up sacrificing a Muncie reverse lockout shifter from a '60's vette and cut the shifter arms from both, and welded the Muncie arm assembly to the hurst. It has a perfect bend and length to it, and comes up on the right side of the tail shaft, leaving pleanty of room for me to drive and shift, and room for my petite wife to ride along if she elects to do so, lol... Or my best buddy, Sprocket, my bull mastiff/pit mix. I have a bunch of pictures that I will be adding the the "fletchersons t" build thread soon. I am not real good about documenting everything... There is some good stuff if you are considering a similar feat. If you want, I can post pics and details of what I came up with, but it's tailored to my specific chassis. I don't know how large you are, but there is limited space in a standard body to get all of the controls in and still be able to comfortably drive it if you are larger like me, not huge, just full frame. I was thinking about using a hydraulic clutch system with a hydraulic throw out bearing, but the space required for the master cylinders, etc under the floor prohibited it. You may be able to do that, depending on your cross member position, etc. good luck with your build! I will look forwards to watching.
A wealth of information here. Thank you. It will be a while before I get this far. I get my frame and bare front axle next week from Jerry at CCR. He is not too far from me so I will drive down and meet him and Diane. I can then start putting all my parts together for the front end. I will keep you posted.
 
Dan I ran zoomies on my blown BBC in my bucket and I just couldnt get them quiet enough so I could talk to or listen to my passenger (usually was my wife), and that made for a bad outcome for me.

They looked cool with the 6 point cage and the wheelie bars tho. But not so nice for a 150 mile drive.
 

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