Covid Project - 80's Project T-Rod

Here's a pic with the brake pedal and horn in place.

 

A couple of pics with HEI Distributor and 4" intake spacer mounted. I wanted the Hillborn-style air-clean scoop to sit above the distributor. I think it may look ok once I get everything else in place. Do you all think the spacer looks ok? A little strange, but I can't afford a tunnel-ram or a supercharger.

 

The spacer looks fine, and may help a little with top-end performance. Lower RPM performance shouldn't suffer with a dual-plane intake. Great progress!

 

My son and I relined the rear brake lines on his buick with ni-copp from the calipers to the abs. Great stuff to work with and relatively inexpensive. Same stuff I'm going to do my ride with. Double flares on steel are a pain. Bubble flairs are even worse..in my opinion.

 

Ni copp is a mechanics beat friend. Ive made thousands of fuel lines, brake lines, and evap lines with it as an automotive technician for the past 10 years up here in the pa/oh/wv tri-state rust

 

Just curious, I wonder if Ni copp works as good as copper on a still!!

 

Hadn't considered fuel lines! Good tip!!

 

Finally got all the brake plumbing installed. The NI-CU line was easy to bend and it turned out pretty good.

 

Removed the old valve covers and cleaned them up. Ended up painting them with Rustoleum Enamel to match the engine block. Put'm in the oven and baked the paint at 250 deg for 25 minutes...turned out good.

 

Does anyone advise mounting a radiator overflow bottle on the side of the radiator? I see some engines with them, and others without. Any thoughts or input?

 

That stuff bends and flairs so easy... it feels like cheating after using traditional steel lines for years.

 

It's a good idea. Simple to do, and creativity is allowed! Some use beer cans.

 

You can buy one. Lots of designs... lots of beer, pop bottle/can configurations too. Whatever suits your builds flavor.

 

Built a helpful "rickshaw" cart to allow me to dismount and work on the body. This will be helpful for transporting the body to my shed for dealing with all the bodywork (fiber-glassing, bondo, heavy sanding, and eventually paint).

 

Reviewing and evaluating how I'll fiberglass-in the dash panel and floor board. I think I'll wait on the dash until I get a windshield frame...need to make sure the shorty posts and windshield will fit the width correctly. Once I get this down, I'll drill the body and install a steel crossbar for added support. As of now, I don't have a windshield frame...so, this will have to wait.

 

I got around to getting the Ni-CU 3/8" fuel line installed.

 

I used a CCR open top 14" windshield frame for mine, and I like it. Standard widths are 40-1/8" and 39-5/8". Custom widths are available for an extra $45.

T-Windshield Frames – California Custom Roadsters (shopcaliforniacustomroadsters.com)

 

Whoops…I just realized that Spanky suggested the windshield frame. Thanks Spanky!