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Engine too! More problems.

oino said:
LOL. Bad new is. My hand is on fire. Burned it on the exhaust. Good nows is. I removed the bowls. There was a little bit of crap in them. I cleaned that. Remove the floats. Floats good. You know the tab on the back of the float that pushes up on the needle. I bent that up a little on both floats. Put it all back togother. Started the car. RUNNING GOOD. :hooray:
Needles holding. Even uped the regulater to 4 1/2. Still holds. No flooding. Just sounds like I need to change the plugs now.
I get a mis here and there. No biggy. Smoke is gone too.

Thank you so much for the help.
Now I just need to fix the damn Steering problem and I'm ready to go.
If you got some insight on that. I'd love the help.
http://www.tbucketeers.com/topic/11103-steering-problem/page__st__20

Thank you again.
Click to expand...


Well, there ya go! See, Ya thought you were gonna have to rebuild the motor and all! You hung in there and Did it! See, wasn't all that bad....you just gotta know what questions to ask yourself on the diagnosis part.

I'll swing on over and see whats up with the steering....just glad I could help out. OH, by-the-way, in you do any work at all to the Bucket, like ccam,, and stuff, do yourself a big help and swap out a metering plate with bonafid jets and stuff off a 4150 carb. And next time your into the carb, see if you got a 6.5 powervalve in it. If its been in there a while, change it out.......

Zipping over on your steering link......
 
Screaming Metal said:
Well, there ya go! See, Ya thought you were gonna have to rebuild the motor and all! You hung in there and Did it! See, wasn't all that bad....you just gotta know what questions to ask yourself on the diagnosis part.

I'll swing on over and see whats up with the steering....just glad I could help out. OH, by-the-way, in you do any work at all to the Bucket, like ccam,, and stuff, do yourself a big help and swap out a metering plate with bonafid jets and stuff off a 4150 carb. And next time your into the carb, see if you got a 6.5 powervalve in it. If its been in there a while, change it out.......

Zipping over on your steering link......
Click to expand...
Congrats to you both. To oino for overcoming his carb/regulator problems and to Screaming Metal for showing the patience of a saint in seeing this thru. oino, if you are moving locally, you could conceivably drive the T to its new home. Also, 10*-12* initial advance on the distributor. If you haven't it will make a world of difference.

Keep us up to date on what is happening, John
 
Make sure I got this right. Because I'm sure I don't. When I say advance 10*. Do you mean move the dist. so the timing mark is on the 10 Before or After?

[attachment=4291:aftermarket_tab.jpg]

P.S.
Not my engine. :hooray:

P.P.S
I'm hoping to move local. Not sure if I can afford it. I've also been looking at Ventura, Long Beach, and out of state.
Not easy with 2 dogs, 2 cars, and I want a garage.
 
oino said:
Make sure I got this right. Because I'm sure I don't. When I say advance 10*. Do you mean move the dist. so the timing mark is on the 10 Before or After?

[attachment=4291:aftermarket_tab.jpg]

P.S.
Not my engine. :hooray:

P.P.S
I'm hoping to move local. Not sure if I can afford it. I've also been looking at Ventura, Long Beach, and out of state.
Not easy with 2 dogs, 2 cars, and I want a garage.
Click to expand...
Have you looked in the Burbank/Glendale area? Yes 10* BEFORE. The engine will speed up after you have readjusted the distributer and then you will have to turn the idle down with the idle adjusting screw. As RPM said, disconnect the distributer vacuum line and plug the carb outlet BEFORE you set the timing. You also may have to readjust the idle mixture screws, but only by a LITTLE, maybe 1/4 turn. All adjustments will be small adjustments. After you have set the timing, and the idle speed, then adjust the mixture screws (one at a time). Screw the adjusters in until the engine starts to stumble and then out til it is idling the fastest. Then ck. idle speed and readjust again. This process takes about three tries. Back and forth. In the end, it should idle cleanly @ about 600-700 rpms, timing light will show 10* Before. All these adjustments are done OUT OF GEAR, IN PARK. Drop it into gear (with someone's foot on the brake) and it should just sit there and idle, no problems.

John
 
You know John and Ron told you where to put your timing at, right? Well, n your little scale there by the harmonic balancer, the scale you were pointing to, get yourself a black MagicMarker or Red, which ever you can see better, piece of pinstriping tape. Me , myself, I do the timimg tape on the balancer thing. Then, I also put a mark on the hub @ TDC, and @ 11 Degrees. That way, if the balance ever spins, I know about it, and I can also time the motor, I don't have to wait till the UPS/FedEX men show up with my parts....

Now, with your scale marked, when you hook up your timing light....all you gotta do is line the marker up with yourmark on the scale whne the timing light is triggered....simple.
 
Hey oino, how is she running? did you get the timing set? Can you get the thing outta the back yard now? Well, how about lettin us know?????
 
I'm cleaning up the area. I got my seats in. Need to adjust the brake petal some. Hopefully Monday.
I know one thing I'm going to do when I brake down this car again. Its going to get power brakes. :thumb:
 
oino said:
I'm cleaning up the area. I got my seats in. Need to adjust the brake petal some. Hopefully Monday.
I know one thing I'm going to do when I brake down this car again. Its going to get power brakes. :thumb:
Click to expand...
Why , have you driven it to see what unassisted brakes stop like?

John
 
Your non powered brakes, if the system is ut together properly and adjusted should be fine. However, if the brake pedal pivot from one car isn't compatable with the Master cyl used, this can cause some loss of leverage, hydraulic wise, making the pedal harder to push. Ted and Ron and all of our brake experts can help you with your setup....

Drive that car around some....make sure you can get her into that moving van....just don't hurt yourself are anyone else. And for gods sake, make sure you got good ramps, don't try no homemade junk that'll get you hurt. If your gonna build them, do it right , screws and woodglue....better yet metal ones off a car hauler......, just be safe.....
 
Just a quick update.
Still running good. I got the car out of my backyard and in to my neighbors. Have to wait for my neighbor to move some things out of the way so I can get the car all the way out.
 
Am glad its still running good for you. Need to get that thing outta everyones back yards....T's are made to be driven, not parking in the back yard! Ha! Yea, I realize you were having problems. Anyway, you gotta get it out so you can give it a shakedown run....gotta see if she's able to go up in the van!

Drive her around the block carefully and see if everything is as it should be. The motor is gonna have to pull and not go dead, brakes have got to stop you, things gotta go from forward to reverse and you know the drill. Just take your time and be safe...Ted and others will send you thru the check list....
 
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