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Ford Flathead?

C

crickifur

Member
I am getting ready to start a new T Bucket build. I started one 2 years ago, but a career change and a cross country move forced me to sell what I had accomplished. I feel that it may have turned out to be a blessing though. I have done multiple projects, but never a bucket (completed) and I am looking to make something I will want to keep in the end, as I have sold all others (I enjoyed the build more than what the car had become). So, that being said, I am thinking I want to do something completely new to ME and do a Flathead/C4 combo. I decided to build the drivetrain, then purchase the bucket kit (mainly because I haven't decided which one I like more). I have rebuilt MANY C4 transmissions (who hasn't) and they have always proven to be a great, reliable, and affordable way to go. I am thinking I will go with an 8BA ('49-'53) engine simply because of what I would like to do. I am not looking to supercharge the engine, but I am looking for good, useable information I can use on the build. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated as the only experience I have with flatheads is rebuilding a '27 Model T engine during a resto project that was directly overseen by an expert. I am definately planning a good stroker engine so I am looking for a source for well put together stroker kits and good blocks. From what I have found online, there are many problems with engines rusted inside/out so I am hoping to bypass that problem. It is looking as though everything, but the block will be new. I am looking for a good flathead builder in the Northern (hopefully west) New York area. Any help will be greatly appreciated in this as I am looking to get the engine build started late fall/early winter. Thank you all!!!
 
Well, all you have to do is do a seach....'HotRodding the Ford Flatheads'. They are good motors, but they are starting to get scarce. Whats out there has been picked over a few times. You now have to be careful because what can be put up for sale can bite the unknowing.
Alot of these things are approaching maximum overbore, decking can be a problem....I love these old motors, and they are reliable. BUT, you have to choose wisely.
Read up on all of them, theres alot of info out there. The old days of flatheads running Hot, well, we now know how to make them run cool, nots no longer a issue.
Don't buy one dirty, have it cleaned and checked. Dirt can hide a multitude of problems.... Now, if you stumble upon one thats at max. overbore, you can have it sleeved, if you have your heart set on a flathead.
Alot of people don't like sleeves, but if they are installed correctly, they are good.
There is a ton of Speed parts for these old motors, and they were the origional hotrods!
Build what you want, but buyer beware of scrap being sold as usable. If you go into this knowing you might have to spend some money on repairing the block, you won't be taken advantage of....

The C4 is a good trans, small, light and strong. There are a couple of flathead builders there in NY, just do a search....
By the way, I almost forgot, there are alot of good priced repops of the vintage speed stuff for the motors. I almost forgot to tell you, there are new castings avail. for the blocks, french made I believe. So look around!
 
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A flathead will be an expensive engine to get right. But there's nothing else that has quite the same flair, especially in a vintage-looking bucket. Beware of cracked blocks and heads, though--the cracks will play hide and seek with you.
 
Screaming Metal,
I have actually read that hotrod mag article. it really is a great explanation of what the flathead is! Where do I find the new blocks though?? I have saw a few ads, but no prices anywhere... I would not be against that idea for sure. I am already planning on about $6k in parts for the engine. I do plan to assemble it myself, so I am hoping to come out with a really nice engine :)

blyndegesser,
I have already come to the conclusion it will be pricey. I do completely agree with the look though. I love nastalgia and as much as I love the 302 (an SBC would never find its one into any form of a Ford I build, even a replica), I really do want something new and, wow they are BEAUTIFUL. :)
 
ive got a 34 ford flathead for sale and i have a new aluminum radiator and the sweedway adapter to go to a t-5 trans here in louisiana
 
jester,

Thanks for the offer, sadly your a little too far from me. the freight would kill me. good luck on the sale.
 
If you find a motor be sure to pull the heads off and check for cracks between the cylinder walls, that's one of the most common places for them to crack. I know a few people who have built high performance flatheads out of the French flathead V8's, they're a copy of the Ford and use most of the same parts. They were used in French military trucks trucks through the 80's and a lot the surplus motors have been imported over here for hotrodders.
 
Hack said:
If you find a motor be sure to pull the heads off and check for cracks between the cylinder walls, that's one of the most common places for them to crack. I know a few people who have built high performance flatheads out of the French flathead V8's, they're a copy of the Ford and use most of the same parts. They were used in French military trucks trucks through the 80's and a lot the surplus motors have been imported over here for hotrodders.
Click to expand...
I guess it can be done, but finding a flathead Ford V8 without cracks is a rarity. Try to find a running one. It will save your a$$. I have one on the engine stand that is well over $6k. It does not even have a stroker kit. It does have a merc crank, which did not add to the cost. Unless you run upon a steal on an earlier model, look for a 49 to '53 model. A Merc will have a 4" stroke compared to the Ford 3 3/4". I will go out on a limb and say all flatheads have been rebuilt. Just because everything on the outside says Ford or Merc, you do not know what is inside. The 4v intake is the best for the street and Linder electronics is the only ignition worth running. I think it is H&H from Calif that can provide anything from heads to a whole engine, plus advise. Speedway water pumps are recognized as the best and they now have them in alum. It is one of the most interesting and amazing engines you will every expose yourself too.
 
I just seen one on craigslist for 650,00 and it runs to if i remember right . Try phx az on craigs and hit auto parts and put in hot rod . Had to be the last 3 days i seen it.
 
railroad said:
I guess it can be done, but finding a flathead Ford V8 without cracks is a rarity. Try to find a running one. It will save your a$$. I have one on the engine stand that is well over $6k. It does not even have a stroker kit. It does have a merc crank, which did not add to the cost. Unless you run upon a steal on an earlier model, look for a 49 to '53 model. A Merc will have a 4" stroke compared to the Ford 3 3/4". I will go out on a limb and say all flatheads have been rebuilt. Just because everything on the outside says Ford or Merc, you do not know what is inside. The 4v intake is the best for the street and Linder electronics is the only ignition worth running. I think it is H&H from Calif that can provide anything from heads to a whole engine, plus advise. Speedway water pumps are recognized as the best and they now have them in alum. It is one of the most interesting and amazing engines you will every expose yourself too.
Click to expand...

H&H Flatheads are super cool guys and are very helpful, they really know their stuff!
 
So, I actually got the NEW wife to jump on board with the project. She is actually excited about getting started so I figure that I may as well ride it as long as I can! I have been searching like crazy. I have a lead on a couple fairly local to me that have already been broken down, so I am hoping that I will be able to catch any problems before they creep up on me. The block will be sent to a shop to have the milling done and be magna-fluxed anyway. Still researching the build some, but I have a friend who is in his late 60s that grew up on them and he is quite the motorhead himself. I am hoping he can find the tiem to give me a hand.
 
More experienced builders than me, do not recommend milling the block deck. If you must, take a minimal cut. Do not do any machining until you have the block checked. I hope it is a 24 stud engine. If you find a running engine, you need to check oil pressure with no knocking. It does not take much for a flathead, but low pressure will mean bearings and it just does not stop. 30 psi is great. Do a compression check. If you have a dead cylinder, it can be a valve, which is an easy fix. Some of the later engines had valve seats installed. This would be a big plus. If it runs at all, great, if it will turn over very good, if it is stuck, have deep pockets. Good luck, keep posting.
 
What RR said! They are good dependable motors. Don't worry about cracks in the heads, there are plenty of aftermarket pieces, ie, Edelbrock, and a ton on others. Hairline cracks between the seats aren't bad, just the longer ones that weren't fixed correctly the 1st time. Grinding out and welding aren't bad, even pinning holds up good, just have someone with the experience do the work for you.
With the non-leaded fuel, I always do the cut for the seat inserts. That also helps with finding cracks thru the seat/deck area. I cut them first, then magnaflux, if any cracks, I mark them. Then I pressure test the block and watch the cracks. Find the absolute ends of those cracks, then drill the ends to keep that crack from running, then I Vgrind the crack out and fix it, then, have the machining done....
Yes, they were prone to cracking in the old days, but not if fixed correctly....just ask Jimmy Shine....
 
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