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In search of wisdom from the gurus

Zandoz

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
I am to the point of trying to work out the detailed dimensions of my frame for the CAD file going to the shop that will make the frame. The components I'm using are all Speedway, but the components were purchased individually, not as a kit. What I have is a 5" drop tube axle, spring over axle adjustable perches, a mono-leaf spring, 4-bar bat wings, under axle perch bolt mounted shock mounts, F1 shock mounts for the frame, and polished SS 4-bars with 7° welded ends on one end of each bar and heims on the other ends. For the frame I'm planning on 4"x2" 1/8 wall tube for the rails, and 4"x2" 3/16" wall tube for the front and rear crossmembers.

The first issue is one of never having seen it done that way. The front spring perches on square/rectangular frame rails I've seen all fasten to the front and top of the crossmember. Would there be a problem with wrapping the perch around the back of the crossmember instead of the front? I'm planning on 3/8" material for the perch, the bottom of the spring mounting plate being somewhere around 2" to 2-1/2" above the crossmember. A 1-3/4" wide tongue will wrap around the back of the crossmember. I'm also considering wrapping the perch around the underside of the frame rail, if needed. The reason for all of this is 2-fold. The grille shell I have is constructed similar to a '32 Ford shell, but I do not want to chop off the bottom of the shell, as is frequently done on T-Buckets with '32 shells. What I want to do is trim back the sides on the bottom of the shell, leaving the front as an apron that will be between the crossmember and the axle and spring. The general look I'm going for is something like Jim Stroupe's car Jim Stroupe modified 1.jpg...with the spring perch passing through the grille, and the spring and axle being in front of the shell and grille. The 2nd part of the problem comes from the rack & pinion being right behind the crossmember, with no wiggle room. There is no room to move the crossmember back and have room for the perch to wrap around the front of the crossmember. As is, the back side of the grille mesh will be right against the front of the crossmember, and there is going to be some bracket contortions to get the R&P mounted on the back side of the crossmember.

The next issue is determining the height of the spring perch. I've seen at least a couple ways to determine the final amount of spring sag under load, with multi-leaf springs, and the typical weight of a V8 in the front end. Where the problem comes in is that I have a mono-leaf spring and an engine that weighs 200-250 lbs less than a SBC. The most exact recommendation I've run across for a multi-leaf and small block v8 set up said to expect around an 1-1/2" sag. Is the amount of under load sag for a given load and a mono-leaf about the same as a multi-leaf spring? Should I just use the 1-1/2" figure, and just adjust the expected sag proportionally to the weights of the engines? The spring came with a 1/4" shim. Is that 1/4" shim the expected compensation for going from a multi-leaf to a single-leaf?

Another big issue at the moment is the positioning of the frame end attachment points for the front 4-bars. A big part of the problem comes from the problem above...not knowing the positioning of the front axle relative to the frame. Another part of the complication come from the caster angle of the axle...I'd like to build in a 7° caster angle. The last (as far as I know) point of complication is the angle of the 4-bars relative to the frame. The configuration I'm using is as described in this NTBA chassis tech page post National T-Bucket Alliance - Login
The attachment points will be tubes welded into notches on the top and bottom of the frame rail. I can use a tape measure and some math to get "on paper" locations, but I know that on paper and reality frequently do not agree.

Any help on any or all of these issues will be greatly appreciated.
 
For starters, I would use 3/16" wall for the frame rails as well. You have an engine that weighs 200 - 250 lbs less than a SBC? Doesn't an SBC weigh 350 lbs? Maybe it's been too long since I had one on the bathroom scale.
 
For starters, I would use 3/16" wall for the frame rails as well. You have an engine that weighs 200 - 250 lbs less than a SBC? Doesn't an SBC weigh 350 lbs? Maybe it's been too long since I had one on the bathroom scale.

SBC weighs 625 lbs.
 
" The spring came with a 1/4" shim. Is that 1/4" shim the expected compensation for going from a multi-leaf to a single-leaf?" Yes.

Why are you using 4" x 2"?
 
Nothing wrong with a 4" x 2" frame, but 3" x 2" is fine for these frames. I have a 3" x 2" x 3/16" wall on my sedan with no problems. If your worried about strength, just gusset the kick up.
 
For starters, I would use 3/16" wall for the frame rails as well. You have an engine that weighs 200 - 250 lbs less than a SBC? Doesn't an SBC weigh 350 lbs? Maybe it's been too long since I had one on the bathroom scale.

SBCs supposedly weigh in around 550 lbs...give or take 50 lbs or so depending on the source. My GM 60° V6 weighs in around 350.

The 1/8"/.125" wall rails should be more than sufficient. Speedway's frames are .120" wall, and I've not heard of a lot of failures. Plus, my rails will be 4" tall instead of the typical 3". Also, my rails will be shorter than typical because of my target 92" wheelbase. There will be less than typical twisting forces on the frame due to the less than typical horsepower and torque, and the 4 link suspension all the way around. I have no plans for anything fastened to the frame by tapping holes. Anything that requires more than nutserts for attaching will either be welded or bolted all the way through the frame with crush prevention tubes.

The bottom line is that I've never heard of a frame rail failure attributed to the wall thickness on a street car driven legally. As long as I own it, it will not be raced, and I doubt it will even be capable of much if any of a burn out. It's intended as a casual cruiser.
 
" The spring came with a 1/4" shim. Is that 1/4" shim the expected compensation for going from a multi-leaf to a single-leaf?" Yes.

Why are you using 4" x 2"?

Nothing wrong with a 4" x 2" frame, but 3" x 2" is fine for these frames. I have a 3" x 2" x 3/16" wall on my sedan with no problems. If your worried about strength, just gusset the kick up.

Although the 4" rails contribute to strength given the 1/8" wall, that is not the reason for going that route. There are 2 reasons. On the front end I need that tall of a rail for the R&P to pass through the frame rail. A minimum of a 3" hole is required. The plan is for 3" ID 1/8" wall sleeve for the hole. On the back end, some of the bracketry for the unusual for a T-Bucket suspension require a 4" tall rail. The 4" rails ar just the path of least resistance.

I'd not thought of adding strength for the kickup. Gusseting the lower end of the kickup will work, but not the upper end. At full travel the axle will tuck right into the gusseting area...I'll have to rely on fish plates.
 
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I made all my trailer tongues from 2" x 2" x 1/8" tubing with 2ea. 22 1/2 degree cuts to make a 45 degree goose neck. I put them in a press to test the welds. (pull behind motorcycle trailers). The tubing bent and welds did not fail, so I think 1/8" is strong enough. But, the 3/16 " gives you a bit more in case you want to drill and tap for bolts for attaching some things. You can use nut serts instead of drilling and tapping also. Just my 2 cents, for what its worth. I doubt you would need any fish plates
Lee
 
I won't be using drilling and tapping for attachment...just nutserts or if required bolting clear through the rail with crush prevention tubes.
 
Too bad you can't see the structure behind the grille of the car you pictured , has to be interesting given how high above the imagined frame rails that spring perch is !!
dave
 
Too bad you can't see the structure behind the grille of the car you pictured , has to be interesting given how high above the imagined frame rails that spring perch is !!
dave

I have a sneaking suspicion that the axle was the focal point of the car, and most everything else was built with that axle being the foundation <shrug>

The only thing my build will have in common is that I want the perch to come through the grille, with the spring and axle in front of the grille and shell. In my case the perch will be much lower in the shell.
 
Another question has come to mind. How bad is having the kick up being at a 90° angle to the main rail? It's looking like keeping the axle from hitting the kick up at full travel is going to be more tedious than expected.
 

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