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Mini van seat

LarryH

Member
I'm going to tear the T-Bucket down for a redo (paint & interior) later this winter. Since my interior is a drop in and it's really starting to showing it's age (the car was built in 1971) i can gain about 4" of width if i attach the interior panels directly to the side of the body.

I thought about bomber seats or maybe some low back fiberglass bucket seats but since my grandson is only 6, i don't think a car seat would fit in either of those. Aftermarket bench seats are a little pricey and they still need to be upholstered.

I found an older post about narrowing a Dodge mini van seat...

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...and was wondering if maybe i could gain an inch or two in leg room. The leading edge of the seat is 22" from the firewall and the seat including the riser is 8" from the floor to the top of the bottom seat cushion. I don't want to raise the ride height any but i sure would like to gain a little more leg room.

So for you guys using cut down mini van seats ho's the leg room?
 
Hey Larry...that was my write up and my seat. I did not use the legs or risers persay. I took the track and directly bolted it to the bottom of the seat frame. If you look at the 1st picture you see what I mean. It only rasied my seat about 3-4 inches off the floor. You can weld them if youd like. I like the idea of having room under my seat to stuff things. Also I had good leg room but this past winter I took the back frame out of the seat and slid the foam back into the seat cover. It gave me an additional 4 inches plus. I'll find you a pick and post it if youd like. It rides ALOT better than most that I rode in.
 
I would appreciate some pics. I kind of figured i would just remove the riser and legs and just bolt it directly to the floor. Since my battery and electrical are under the seat i'll make it so i can flip it up.
 
I would appreciate some pics. I kind of figured i would just remove the riser and legs and just bolt it directly to the floor. Since my battery and electrical are under the seat i'll make it so i can flip it up.

My bottom does flip. I took the front bolt and used it as a hinge. The back sits in the groves as a lock. My seat pivots up from the back.
 
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These are before I decided to remove the back frame this past winter. But even before then I had good leg room. I just wanted more so I removed the frame and slid the foam back into the seat and velcored it to the inside trim. The bottom is still a flip up.
 
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These are before I decided to remove the back frame this past winter. But even before then I had good leg room. I just wanted more so I removed the frame and slid the foam back into the seat and velcored it to the inside trim. The bottom is still a flip up.
I'd like more info on these seats myself.I have a pair of these I took out of my beater vans.I have 1 with built in child booster seats with 5 point harness from the factory(very uncomfortable for adults )the seat backs are rock hard!but using 1 side would give the Grandkid a great seat !
 
Howdy
Not looking to Hi jack this thread but man how have you got so much foot room in there? Most cars seem to have barely enough for one foot!
Cheers
Tony

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DSCN1568.jpg


These are before I decided to remove the back frame this past winter. But even before then I had good leg room. I just wanted more so I removed the frame and slid the foam back into the seat and velcored it to the inside trim. The bottom is still a flip up.
 
Leon...reference to the back of the seat carefully remove the cover and foam and see what the frame looks like. If the frame seems solid all the way across you should be able to remove the part you want out. Just make some sort of bracket out of about 1" flat stock that follows the seat back contour and weld it on the part you want to keep at the cut line that way the seat back stays in place and is still solid. Now once that is done take the foam for the back and lay it back in place. It should fit good. Take the seat and cover and foam to some one to reupholster it.

Retro.... I cut the nose and streched it 4" and put the body on top of the frame. I didn't want it channeled that way my seat wont be sitting so high too. Now if you want the channeled look just take some fiberglass and metal and add it too the lower outside area while its on the frame. It's all what look your after. By mine not sitting around the frame i was able to easily attach my step.

I hope this helps.
 
Howdy
Not looking to Hi jack this thread but man how have you got so much foot room in there? Most cars seem to have barely enough for one foot!
Cheers
Tony

Sure wish mine had that much foot room.
 
Larry, I too used the dodge mini van seat took 5 inches out of the middle and welded it all back just like stock you can even put the original cover back on and fold the extra material under the back of both top an bottom it looks great in the bucket and sits well also. I have about a 3 inch riser made from 3/4 ply with steel frame and it sits like a sports car seat. Let me clarify that riser is 1" in back going to 3" in front. and is hinged so the seat flips up from the back for under the seat storage.
 
I was wondering about a riser. I figured i would just experiment until i found something that felt right.Good tip on the seat cover. Since i haven't decided on a final color i haven't yet picked an interior color. I might do that until i decide on the final colors. All i have figured out now is that the frame will be gloss black and the engine will stay Chevy orange.
 
Larry, I too used the dodge mini van seat took 5 inches out of the middle and welded it all back just like stock you can even put the original cover back on and fold the extra material under the back of both top an bottom it looks great in the bucket and sits well also. I have about a 3 inch riser made from 3/4 ply with steel frame and it sits like a sports car seat. Let me clarify that riser is 1" in back going to 3" in front. and is hinged so the seat flips up from the back for under the seat storage.
I too used the middle seat out of a chrysler mini van. Cut 3 inches outta the middle and welded it back.

a 2x4 laid down in the back and one on edge in the front gave me the best "Tilt" to the seat for confort.
 
I cut 4" out of mine and welded it back together, or I should say, had my good friend Eric weld it back together for me. It fits just right.
 
If you do it right you can have the hinged flip like I did. I used the rail from the seat and it gave me the slant I wanted and the mount is metal attached to the floor. It comes up to be about the same as using a 2x4 for the front and maybe 1-2" on the rear. I just rather use metal for my seat mount instead of wood and it didn't cost me anything. Again look at the picture.
 
The seat will most definitely flip forward. I'm guessing the amount you narrow the seat depends on how the side panels are done. Or did you narrow the seat then do the side panels? Since my interior is a drop in i'll be starting from scratch. Including wooding the body. Other than the floor and firewall, it has very little wood.
 
Take in account for the interior and the upholstery on the seat. That way you dont have them too tight.

I'm thinking i'll wood the body first then figure it out from there. I'm just guessing but i figure about 1" of clearance between the seat and the side of the body should be plenty of room.
 

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