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Missing axle code

Bennett

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
My bucket has a Camaro axle, so I'm told. I can find both the axle casting date (H177) which I determined to be July 17th 1977 and a casting number of 3894859NF but the axle code it not apparent as a bracket is welded where it might have been. I also have been told it has 2:73 gears and I would like to change to a lower gear. Is there another way to verify the set-up of the axle short of pulling the gears and counting teeth?
Thanks for the help in advance,
Mike
 
Well, normally, theres a tag thats under a bolt on the cover. Those are usually gone in a couple of years. Then there is a number stanped on the housing itsself, it that has been welded over, we can still kinda get you in the ballpark.
All SmallBlock Camaro's had a 10 bolt rear. All the BB Camaros had the 12 Bolt. If it were a Z car, with a stout factory motor, it probably had a 12.
Any performance rear is not a open rear. Normal performance had limited slips, while the factory Hi-Horse cars had the detroit lockers, which was a option if you orders the monster motors. All the stock performance motors started having lower compression bot 73, by 75, the HP#'s started falling, bigtime! But, you could still order the 450 Horse 454, 425 horse 427, 375 horse 396....and have them dropped in. But you had to pay big time for a rear that would stand up to them.

Look in one of the 100's of rear end charts for camaro's, measure your width, face to face, then, measure your spring pad width, the big motored cars had bigger wider, bigger brake shoes also. With all those #'s, and look over your rear end good for stamped numbers on the machines surface by the rearend cover, you should find out which car it came in.
If its a 2.73 gears, open rear, its probably a normal, run of the mill, low compression 350 with a turbo 350.

As for the gearset, the axles only have to do with the carrier, the splines gotta match up. This would help if you were change out your carrier for a posi- unit. They'll be going by 10 bolt or 12 bolt, by your ring gear dia.
You can purchase a install-kit that comes with your seals, some shims, crush sleeve and new c-clips. When you change your gears, your gonna want to use new stuff anyway, or at least I would.
 
If you want to find out your ratio, raise your rear and put jack stands under her, put your car in neutral, block the front wheels so she won't roll, make a mark on your tire with white marker also on the ground. Make a mark on your pinion and one on the housing so they line up.
For 1 revolution of that tire, that pinion should rotate 2 3/4 turns for 2.73's.....
 
If you don't find the answer with the info given, call Randy's Ring and Pinion. I think he can identify or help you with any questions.
 
The only way I have found to get an accurate idea of the ratio is to let the car down on the ground, put a mark on the tire, and one on the driveshaft and push the car forward as one person counts the revolutions the driveshaft makes when the tire goes around once. Admittedly, it is hard to get someone to lay under the car while you are pushing it over them, but small children are perfect for that job. :D

Don
 
Thanks everyone! This is all very helpful. I think SM is probably correct in assuming it's a run of the mill rear. Once I'm sure of what I have, I plan to order some lower gears to get my RPM up. Again thanks.
 
Or you could take the cover off and count teeth. No guessing with this method.
What he said! All it costs is a gasket and some gear oil, but its always correct!
 
Exactly Ted! The Man Has Spoken!!! You lucky if your car weighs 1400 lbs empty, that, puts your power to weight ratio Waaaaayyy on up there. A 300 horse motor in a T is like 600 horses under a camaro's hood....those cars are heavy, you need gears to launch them.
Hells Bells, put a blown smallblock in a bucket, a powerglide, and some 2.73's out back, you'll drive around 2/3's of the bracket folks out there at the far end.
The same thing with a 3 speed TH350 or 400 trans. They're great for putting around town keeping your rpms low, they're not needed performance wise. The powerglide is better for that, but I'm getting off the point here.
Put it this way, you'll never realize the cars full potential because you'll never be able to open it up fully on the road. Cruisin' at 2000 rpm or 2200 is alot better than 3450.... that keeps your motor wear down so your car lasts longer, more money in your wallet, to get those trinkets with at the Bucketbash....
Wanna go faster? Hit the go pedal a little harder!
We run 3.90-ish in the rear and well over 240 mph in the 1/4....and thats pulling agianst hip high slicks in the rear.
And the next year or so, the gas prices will go up even more....
 
The fastest car I ever sat in was a T way back in the 70's, this thing was originally built back in the late 60's over around Ted's neck of the woods. This car had a factory stock 350 horse 350 from a z car, it just had a new powerglide put behind it, and I think they had a pretty close to stock converter.
Had spools up front and juicer brakes out back...., but it had RaceMaster slicks on the rear. Just idling, put it in drive, pop the throttle hard, and both front tires would come up off the ground. One of the guys over around Orange county who worked in a speed shop had it. Jump down on it hard on some good clean asphalt, that thing would stand straight up, and that was with the next step up from the 2.73's.
After the car was built, it had to have the front end reworked, and the front frame redone because of dropping the front end all the time. I think they took it over to Teds shop where he set it up correctly....and it was even faster.
The car was originally primer gray, after they got things straightened out, they put a fancy paintjob on it, chromed everything and it was in all the hotrod rags....
 
The power to wt ratio does have advantages, but when you add a 30+ inch rear tire, your final drive may equate to 2.25. Swap the gears, get into the rpm range you like and enjoy. I had the exact same situation. 2.79 gears, unknown chebbie axle, 32 inch tires. I could go faster than I wanted in second gear, but wanted more jump at lower speeds. I put in 3.73s and never looked back. By the way, 302 stock roller mustang engine, maybe 240 hp.
 
WHY??? Do you want your RPM up, in this Day of HIGH gas prices??? A T bucket will pull a very high gear with no problem, I run a 276 final gear ratio, and I could go higher...
Ted, I may be barking up the wrong tree but this dog has a two step plan. I have a mostly stock 350 coupled with 400 trany (3500 stall) 31" tires and 2.73 rear. Now here is the problem.... it has two 390 holly on a tunnel ram and suffers from mid range drowning in fuel it can't burn. My two step plan is to put lower gears in the rear and install a progressive linkage on carbs to hopefully do two things, not dump as much fuel during that stumble, spit and cough are and increase the RPM to aid the tunnel ram.
OK, I know it's coming...tell me this dog is going about all wrong....Believe me I could use your advice....All of you!
Thanks,
Mike
 
The power to wt ratio does have advantages, but when you add a 30+ inch rear tire, your final drive may equate to 2.25. Swap the gears, get into the rpm range you like and enjoy. I had the exact same situation. 2.79 gears, unknown chebbie axle, 32 inch tires. I could go faster than I wanted in second gear, but wanted more jump at lower speeds. I put in 3.73s and never looked back. By the way, 302 stock roller mustang engine, maybe 240 hp.
Railroad,
I'm thinking the same way but that's why I like this site...you get many great opinions and ideas and you just pick and choose. I guess this is the best way to use all of the knowledge and expertise available in this site's forums. Hopefully I learn as I go.
 
Yes,
I stand to be corrected, both of you, because of your setups. Really tall tires, and the tunnelram....both would like some gearing.

Mine, the one I just sold, weighed in at 1375, after I replaced 1 transmission, 4 starters, it had 33" Hoosier's and 3.23 gears, I did have 3.55s but the car would not move when you mashed on the gas, it's just spin.
With the 55's, one of my friends ran a 11 with it, smoking the tires, he had to backpedal it. The 23's ran 10.45 with a set of his FunnyCar tires on the rear. Blew the lower blower pulley off, the radiator was pronounce dead, along with the water pump, timing cover, and lower radiator hose.
Next, we traded wheels, I ordered new tires to fit the ridiculously tall rims, redid the lower pulley running a steel hub, and with it in street trim, ran a 10.18, he burned a exhaust valve.
The next week, he ran a 9.90 and it still had some tuning issues....but then he just bought it from me, along with the other head and block I had machined. I just went overboard on it.

I'm NOW gonna build a fairly stock BB, no blower this time, if I do, it'll be a Whipple, 2X4's, lake pipes, Huge tires out back, skinnys up front. And me and my dog are gonna cruise....
 
If you think changing gears is going to help I think I'd find some 28" tall tires to check out how it reacts. Heckuva lot cheaper & easier than changing gears !! BTW , If the stumble is occurring below about 1500 RPM , I doubt there's gonna be much difference. Also, IME, going to progressive linkage won't change it much , but it will cause your front cylinders to run a bit lean & the rears to run a bit rich. What happens if you rolllll into the throttle ?? dave
 
If you think changing gears is going to help I think I'd find some 28" tall tires to check out how it reacts. Heckuva lot cheaper & easier than changing gears !! BTW , If the stumble is occurring below about 1500 RPM , I doubt there's gonna be much difference. Also, IME, going to progressive linkage won't change it much , but it will cause your front cylinders to run a bit lean & the rears to run a bit rich. What happens if you rolllll into the throttle ?? dave
I like the wheels and tires so I'll try to keep them if I can. I don't have a tach in the bucket but that's a good question, maybe I mount one temporally to verify. It does help if I roll into the throttle but that's not much fun. What's the long term affect of running with lean front cylinders and rich back?
 
What I'm telling you is that if you try some smaller tires you're effectivley changing the gear ratio, if it works , then change the gears. Running lean/rich is not good for your engine for a number of reasons , increased wear being one , possible detonation another. What you're experiencing is a lean "hole" in fuel delivery at low RPM, tunnel rams suffer from this because of the runner length & plenum volume , this decreases the air speed & fuel atomization at low RPM & when you open the pri"s quickly , this leaves a "hole" in the fuel air mix that the acc. pumps can't cover up. You can try some bigger shooters [31-35] to see if that helps , but it,s pretty much the "nature of the beast" . A little more initial timing may also help . It's all trial & error !!
dave
 
What's the long term affect of running with lean front cylinders and rich back?
What 2O2F Said! I don't believe it, another one with tunnel ram problems!

Now here is the problem.... it has two 390 holly on a tunnel ram and suffers from mid range drowning in fuel it can't burn. My two step plan is to put lower gears in the rear and install a progressive linkage on carbs to hopefully do two things, not dump as much fuel during that stumble, spit and cough are and increase the RPM to aid the tunnel ram.

Bennet, go back and look at the the posts with the TunnelRam and smog heads....all his stuff was loose and dribbling all over the place. You don't want to wash your rings out! Get your carbs to operating right. Drive it, the progressive linkage will make it more manageable, if your way over carbed. If you have the really small carbs to start, and they're tuned good, it might run good. I might be reading this wrong, but I take it your car is bogging from too much carb at too low a speed? Edlebrock makes a great slide type linkage for the 2X4's, Speedway has some, Offenhauser has some also.

Will your car idle? If you just rev the motor slow, does it spit and pop? You might to need to post about the tunnel ram issue, (we need to deal with things one at at time though), go back thru all our pages and you can see where we've pretty well dealt with it all.

We're on gears, right? I got to go hook up a motor in the cell....be back later....
 
Yes T Rams are a piece of work alright, and they sweat a lot and that makes a mess on the windshield, etc. But, they look purty... I had a customer that ran one, we totally blocked off the front carb, (could not tell by looking at it) made a special small tube runner setup, that was all hidden inside the big plenum, so in effect, it was now a very small plenum... ended up running great, maybe not the same at the top end, but he never drove it that fast anyway, he liked the quick gate starts better than top speed, like all of us, I do believe... :)
 

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