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My Budget Traditional T Build

I don't know about you, but I'm a lot softer than I used to be lol.

Generally, people have been having trouble breaking in cams because the oil manufacturers have formulated out a lot of the zddp zinc out of the oil which is needed for the flat tappet cams. Guys try to break them in using standard oil with no additive as previously mentioned. As long as all precautions are taken, cam break-ins should be mostly uneventful.
 
I'm no engine builder , but I did a quick rebuild on a 180,000 mile 350 once. Gave it a good hone, used iron rings instead of moly ,high volume oil pump (to take up some of the extra clearances), good cam , Edelbrock performer and headers, Ran like a champ, & didn't use a drop of oil.
Yep definetly add some zinc additive these days . Some guys I know run a qt of diesel engine oil along with their regular oil as it has zinc in it allready? Sounds like you're on the right track, and your build looks really good by the way.
 
Ok, well it's been a long time since I did any work on the bucket because I got a new (to me) weekend cruiser '55 Chevy that needed some unexpected work.

Now that it's mostly done, I can get back to business...
 
I decided to bag the idea of rebuilding that engine and using the 700R4 when I was able to find a really clean, low mile 350 crate motor and TH350 for $700 out the door. It would have cost me almost double that to rebuild the other one, sooooo it was a no-brainer for me. I just need to clean up and paint the trans and get some nice period dress up goodies for the engine to make it more interesting.


It fit really well in the chassis, and the Spirit body is a perfect fit around the bell housing with only minor trimming needed. Kudos to the guys at Spirit..
 
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Beginning the final mock up stage. I finally got tires mounted on the front wheels. I think they look ok....




 
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Thanks guys.

I went and picked up my new fuel tank....at Harbor Frieght! lol. I looked and looked for a suitable tank to no avail, so I found this $35 (with coupon) 11 gallon air tank that will work nicely I think. I will cut the stands & handle off and weld in a filler neck. I can use the existing air outlet bung for the fuel feed and weld in fittings for the sight glass.



 
I received my new $145 radiator in good condition. And it seems to fit the Spirit shell nicely. The tabs attached to it
line up with the mounts on the frame too. I will definitely have to make up some extra support also. I'll just have to engineer something...

I may end up mounting it lower than this, we'll see.






 
One thing that you should look out for is that the top of the grill shell is not higher than the top of the firewall. This is purely an aesthetic point but is important in how the car profiles. IMHO

Jim
 
Yes, thanks. I totally agree. That's why I said was thinking of mounting it lower in the chassis, because it looks a bit high to me. I'll have to play around with it and see how it looks. The main problem being that I don't want the bottom of it hanging too low so it catches the pavement or road debris...

Right now, the front of the cowl and the top of the shell are pretty much identical height, which gives the illusion of the rad being higher. I think having the shell about 1" lower than the cowl would be ideal. I can probably lower the tabs on the frame easy enough....
 
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Yes, thanks. I totally agree. That's why I said was thinking of mounting it lower in the chassis, because it looks a bit high to me. I'll have to play around with it and see how it looks. The main problem being that I don't want the bottom of it hanging too low so it catches the pavement or road debris...

Right now, the front of the cowl and the top of the shell are pretty much identical height, which gives the illusion of the rad being higher. I think having the shell about 1" lower than the cowl would be ideal. I can probably lower the tabs on the frame easy enough....

Run a piece of masking tape from the cowl to the top of the shell and stand back several feet to check the look.

Jim
 
Like this:

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