Project "Obie" Got it's first parts.

[baddawgcustoms]

At least it's in the shape of a car and not a pile of parts...

Yes sir it is starting to actually look like a car now! I'm picking up the frame November 21 from RPM at a Swap meet in Moultrie Ga, and it shouldn't take but a day to make it a full roller. (Maybe even find me a corvair steering wheel at the swap meet!!!!) About the only thing chassis related left to do will be measure the bars for the 4 link, cut and weld them up see how it sits. then I can roll it out In the driveway and let all the neighbors see what all that ungodly noise coming from my shop at 2am has been all about! Then I can sit my sons 40 ford truck cab down on the frame I have now and build his little rat truck!

 

[bobs66440]

Nothing like making metal chips and welding smoke!

 

[baddawgcustoms]

Nothing like making metal chips and welding smoke!

Last November when I got te body home, I sat it out in the driveway while I took a couple days to organize my shop. Several neighbors came by, looked hard at the body and asked "are you building a sleigh for Christmas??" I just told them yes, but a very very load and fast one!

 

[bobs66440]

Last November when I got te body home, I sat it out in the driveway while I took a couple days to organize my shop. Several neighbors came by, looked hard at the body and asked "are you building a sleigh for Christmas??" I just told them yes, but a very very load and fast one!

Ha ha, that's funny because my friends said the same thing! They said it looks like a sleigh, which I suppose it does...

They wanted me to put the body in the front lawn with reindeer during Christmas lol.

 

[KNOTHEAD]

Sometimes these things do seem really small until you start hanging axles and bodies in place. My Track-T has a 97 inch wheelbase. Both of my C-Cab deliveries (built on T-bucket style frames) had 96 inch wheelbases. My son's old T-bucket had a 98 inch wheelbase. I have attached a copy of the frame plan I have been using for over 30 years just for reference. I have used this plan simply because I like the look of a frame that tapers slightly toward the front. The three different rear sections are for different bodies (pickup, turtle deck, and C-Cab). The lower rails are shown for a standard length body. If you are using a stretched body you would add the same stretch to those rails. Example: the rails as shown are 84 1/4 inches on the long side. With a 10 inch stretched body that dimension would change to 94 1/4.

It's purely a matter of personal preference, but I think proportion is THE critical thing affecting the looks of any hot rod. When I see an open-wheel car that has six or eight inches between the engine and the firewall and another foot of open space between the engine and the radiator, it just looks stupid and shows poor planning. As a rule of thumb, if you are running a small bock Chevy engine with a long water pump, conventional fan, and HEI distributor you need 35 inches between the firewall and radiator. You can give it a couple of extra inches if you're planning for a blower drive in your future, but more than that and proportion starts to go awry. I always position the body first, then the engine, and then the radiator. I don't care if the frame and front axle are sticking out 3 feet in front of the radiator; that looks better than a bunch of dead space between the firewall, engine, and radiator. Building that wood frame mockup is a good idea; you can get a definite idea of where you want things located and how they will look all together.

View attachment 8796

Hey Meangreen can I get a copy of the frame plan to use for reference, I'm gathering info so I can choose the one I like best, THANKS

 

[KNOTHEAD]

Is this enough to call it progress? 3 more days and the body will be sitting there as well. It may start looking like a car after that. Spent about $20 on engine degreaser and car wash and it's still nasty. 40 years in the same old truck was a lot of years of nasty. Picking up the frame material Friday as well so I'll spend some time moving components around next week till I decide where it's all going and get the stance right and I'll put a new blade on the saw, pick up some new welding rods and the fun will start. I'm really enjoying finally doing what I've wanted to do for years.

Sure looks like progress to me and Im sure your co-pilot in the last pic will agree

 

[meangreen]

Sure. I prefer a tapered frame. There is no real mechanical advantage or disadvantage; I just like the looks of a slight taper. Here is the plan I have used for T-bucket and C-Cab frames since 1975. The length of the main rails (84.25 in.) is for a standard T body. If you use a stretched body you must add the amount of stretch to the main rails. For instance, if you were using one of RPM's 10 inch stretched bodies, the main rails would be 94.25 in.

 

[baddawgcustoms]

Today I miraculously got a day off, and the house to myself, so I decided since I just got the front tires in and mounted it was time to roll old Obie out and see what he looks like in the sun. I had to undo the front spring to lower the frame to ride height, as it turned out to be a couple inches higher in the front than I wanted, so the new frame will have a 5" drop front perch instead of 3". In the photos it is sitting as it will be with the new frame. The engine will also be a little closer to the firewall, and the distributor looks a little high because it likes about 2" from going all the way in. I decided on a little wider low pro tire up front, and not quite sure how crazy I am about them, but my boat trailer uses the same size and need replacing, so I will see if they grow on me. Thought the wider tire would give a little more sport-car-ish look to the front, but??? I have no idea what urge will hit me when I decide on the color for the wheels, but for now I just left them primed. I'm really excited to see it from 50' away, instead of cramped up in my garage, and I think this was the motivation I needed to kick it in high gear. Sure would love to be rolling by spring, but we will see how it goes. I made lists of "todo's" on big poster board and hung on the shop wall. Something about the enjoyment of crossing things off of a physical list to feel more accomplished finishing small tasks. I have a tendency to get discouraged when you don't see a lot of progress, but it will be nice to see lines through completed tasks. Lets see if I can cross a couple more off today. Please feel free to give any opinions good or bad. Sometimes other people see things we miss with our tunnel vision..

 

[baddawgcustoms]

just a couple more to get a side view. Any opinions on windshield posts? Straight up vs. lay back posts? I know I want to keep it short.

 

[EX JUNK]

You definitely did the right thing in getting it outside to where you can stand back and get a good look at it. I really like the way you have it set and I especially like the profile shot.

Jim

 

[bobs66440]

I like the stance. It's about perfect. It's really what I wanted when building mine, but I didn't want to go through all the additional necessary mods to get it there. As far as the windshield goes, I thought I wanted a low, laid back one on mine until I mocked it up. It just didn't agree with the direction the build was inevitably going. I believe if you mock up a few different options, the car will tell you which is best. Based on what I see, you have a good eye, so I'm confident you'll do the right thing

I know that it's all cosmetic now, but try to plan ahead for driveabilty and comfort also. A low windshield may look cool, but how will it be with the wind hitting you almost directly in the face? How low will you be sitting? I mocked up a few and landed on a 13" vertical. After driving it, I can't imagine it any shorter based on the wind I get now. But I also plan on driving the crap out of it, so that's important to me. Jim's car is very low and looks awesome to me with a low, laid back windshield. That same one did not look good to me on my car. Jim, how is the wind in your car? Just food for thought.

 

[old round fart]

I prefer a straight up and down,but if you like the lay back see how one looks like with a little less lean than the ones available now.

 

[Keeper]

That is sweet, long and low. Having it that low, hides the stretch of the body.

Slight lean on the windshield, not sure what straight up and down would do to the look. Thats the advantage of bringing it out in the sun. Get some plexiglass and some tube and start playing!

 

[baddawgcustoms]

I like the stance. It's about perfect. It's really what I wanted when building mine, but I didn't want to go through all the additional necessary mods to get it there. As far as the windshield goes, I thought I wanted a low, laid back one on mine until I mocked it up. It just didn't agree with the direction the build was inevitably going. I believe if you mock up a few different options, the car will tell you which is best. Based on what I see, you have a good eye, so I'm confident you'll do the right thing

I know that it's all cosmetic now, but try to plan ahead for driveabilty and comfort also. A low windshield may look cool, but how will it be with the wind hitting you almost directly in the face? How low will you be sitting? I mocked up a few and landed on a 13" vertical. After driving it, I can't imagine it any shorter based on the wind I get now. But I also plan on driving the crap out of it, so that's important to me. Jim's car is very low and looks awesome to me with a low, laid back windshield. That same one did not look good to me on my car. Jim, how is the wind in your car? Just food for thought.

Thanks Bob. Yes it has been a real challenge working out all the problems involved with trying to get the car this low, and keep a safe scrub line. I designed it to where even if all 4 tires were flat, nothing would touch the ground. The trans and oil pan will be 3/4" above the bottom of the frame rails, and the radiator even with the bottom. I had to get a new radiator ordered that was shorter, to keep the shell from being higher than the cowl, and not hang to low. Thanks to the 10" stretch even with the trans sitting pretty much ALL the way up in the car, I'll still have plenty of foot room. I plan on using a 90 degree power brake unit that mounts to the inside of the firewall, and that will help with room for the pedals tremendously, and not have the master hanging below the frame either. Power brakes may be overkill for a little car like this, but for just a hundred bucks extra it sure can't hurt. I really wanted a transverse spring in the back using a model A crossmember, but the way the geometry worked out with the 4 link in the back, I was afraid of suspension binding up with the bars being so short. Top bar is 12" and bottom is 14". The coilovers will just work better, and safer under the circumstances. If mine winds up half as purdy as yours, I'll be a happy man Mr. Bob!

That is sweet, long and low. Having it that low, hides the stretch of the body.

Slight lean on the windshield, not sure what straight up and down would do to the look. Thats the advantage of bringing it out in the sun. Get some plexiglass and some tube and start playing!

Thank ya sir. My only concern with the long cowl was to keep it looking well proportioned, so I tried to keep the wheel base down as much as possible. I couldn't be happier with the way the stance turned out.

You definitely did the right thing in getting it outside to where you can stand back and get a good look at it. I really like the way you have it set and I especially like the profile shot.

Jim

Jim I'm just glad I took your suggestion over a year ago when I mocked it up with wood, and cardboard tires! If you recall, I took a bunch of photos at differing heights, and different tire sizes and front to back placement of the driveline. I took the one I liked the best, and designed the car around that photo. If it were not for this sight, the helpful folks on this site, and Ron Pope putting up with all my phone calls, emails and questions, I would certainly be lost as a fart in a whirlwind!

One last photo. I wanted to mimic the look of the model A headlight bar, so I decided to put the tie rod up high in the rear and mount the headlights just above it. Plans are to incorporate the headlight mount with a friction shock mounted on top of the frame. It don't have a fancy photo editor so this is the best I can do. This approximates the location of the headlights. I think they would look better lower, but the black line across is the height of the tie rod, so this will be as low as I can mount them and be above the tie rod. I think if I chrome the tie rod, it will pull off the look I wanted. The A models headlights mounted pretty high too, so this may have actually worked out pretty good.

 

[EX JUNK]

I like the stance. It's about perfect. It's really what I wanted when building mine, but I didn't want to go through all the additional necessary mods to get it there. As far as the windshield goes, I thought I wanted a low, laid back one on mine until I mocked it up. It just didn't agree with the direction the build was inevitably going. I believe if you mock up a few different options, the car will tell you which is best. Based on what I see, you have a good eye, so I'm confident you'll do the right thing

I know that it's all cosmetic now, but try to plan ahead for driveabilty and comfort also. A low windshield may look cool, but how will it be with the wind hitting you almost directly in the face? How low will you be sitting? I mocked up a few and landed on a 13" vertical. After driving it, I can't imagine it any shorter based on the wind I get now. But I also plan on driving the crap out of it, so that's important to me. Jim's car is very low and looks awesome to me with a low, laid back windshield. That same one did not look good to me on my car. Jim, how is the wind in your car? Just food for thought.

My windshield has a vertical measurement of 9" at the center of the cowl. Yes, it's windy driving but it does no bother neither me or my wife and you know the way some ladies can be about their hair. LOL The picture below is of us arriving at a cruise night after some highway speed driving and as you can see, Nan's hair still looks pretty good.



Jim

 

[meangreen]

Just my opinion, but I like the front tires. They fit the theme of the car - low profile. I have said before in a couple of threads that stance and proportion are the most important components to a car's overall look (Jim's roadster is a perfect example) and I think you've nailed it so far.

Windshield selection can be a real conundrum. The more vertical it is, the more turbulence it creates behind it because of the vortex effect. (If you've ridden in a roadster with a vertical windshield at highway speed, you may have felt air hitting you in the back of the head!) Side wind wings help reduce turbulence, but may not look good on some cars and they are hard to find now. If the windshield leans back it directs the air over it more smoothly, but if it leans back too far it may put the air flow right in your face. I have the 20 degree stanchions on my roadster, but I sit very low in the car so I'm behind the windshield. If I sat any higher I would have to wear goggles to drive it. A Duvall style windshield splits the air and directs it around the sides somewhat, but I don't know of any that are made for '25 and earlier style bodies. Also, I mocked one up out of cardboard when I was building my roadster and decided I didn't like the look for my application. Keeper's suggestion of getting some tubing (cheap electrical conduit?) and mocking up a windshield to see what you like is good advice.

If you are using the Chevy style spindles, there are all kinds of configurations of steering arms available. You may be able to bolt them on the bottom of the spindles so that the tie rod passes through the radius rods and just above the frame. That would get it down where you could put the headlights anywhere you want them.

Last thing and I'll shut up... Putting a punch list on the wall is a good idea and a good motivator; I usually do that as soon as I have a car on wheels (about where you are now). Also, when I'm building, I try to do something every day toward completion. Even if it's something as trivial as sketching the plan for some brackets or making a cardboard pattern, it's a step in the right direction.

 

[baddawgcustoms]

Nothing important to post, but Ron Pope sent me a quick pic of the rear of my new frame in the jig and I couldn't help to notice " MADE IN USA" stamped on the steel. ( I knew I liked that guy!)

 

[RPM]

I should have some more pics for you later tomorrow and Saturday.

 

[baddawgcustoms]

I should have some more pics for you later tomorrow and Saturday.

After seeing the new taller front perch I may have to change the name of my car to "Nessie". Doesn't that look like the Loch Ness monster? I LOVE it!

 

[bamabucket]

My experience with a tall vertical windshield is just what Meangreen says - a lot of buffeting as the air comes around it at higher speeds. After a long search I found a supplier that makes windwing brackets and sells a kit with the brackets and pre-cut Lexan wings. The wings did greatly reduce the buffeting but there is still some. Our next step may be a top but I would miss the open feel of the topless bucket. I agree with the comments on the stance - it looks great. You were smart to consider the scrub line when you designed and built the frame - the builder of my car didn't and there would be some damage to the the engine oil pan and some of the lower suspension parts if we had a flat in a front tire. I plan to change the front axle from a 6" drop to a 4" (or maybe less if I can find one). That would prevent the suspension from hitting the pavement but I would have to raise the engine to prevent damage to the pan and don't want to do that.