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Questions reguarding steering brackets and shocks

21833 CCR Frame Shock Tower, weld-on

You might want/need a different shock tower just for the ease of adjustability.

I would send those pictures to Speedway to show the interference of the two parts, it might help you if you want to exchange it for the other kit. Does the other kit come with different BS (4 1/2" or 4 3/4")?

I have a Wilwood disc set up that wasn't for a bolt on steering arm, I called them and they shipped longer bolts.
 
So after talking to speedway today I think Im just going to try and grind a little off the spindle and a little off the caliper bracket.
The other kit I was looking at requires different rotors and a completely different set. Ive already installed the rotors and bearing on the car so cant exactly return them now lol
 
So I just finished installing my rear coilovers and Ive gota say Im not impressed. I think its way to high. Thoughts? I purchased the QA1 14" shocks. But there 17" fully extended.
Also I feel like I got springs that were to stiff. are 175's to much? Their set at about a 20* angle.
From the middle of the axle to the ground is about 11-12"

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You can estimate the loaded drop if you have an idea of what the final weight will be on the axle...A 175# spring at a 20 degree angle will act approximately like a 186 pound spring. So for every 372 pounds you put on the axle, it should drop an inch.
So yeah, your springs might be a little stiff unless you load up the weight.
The good news is that its better to be too stiff than to bottom out, so you could always sit on that concern for a while and re-address it once you have the car assembled and sitting on its running weight.
 
You can estimate the loaded drop if you have an idea of what the final weight will be on the axle...A 175# spring at a 20 degree angle will act approximately like a 186 pound spring. So for every 372 pounds you put on the axle, it should drop an inch.
So yeah, your springs might be a little stiff unless you load up the weight.
The good news is that its better to be too stiff than to bottom out, so you could always sit on that concern for a while and re-address it once you have the car assembled and sitting on its running weight.

Well my main concern is that its sitting to high. Where the axle and frame is, is about where it will ride at with the wheels and tires on the rear. Which I don't like because the frame is very high off the ground. I'm thinking of sending back these 14" shocks and getting 12" or 11" shocks. Maybe 150lb springs would be better at a 20* angle? I was having a hard time understand the "math" behind the understanding out how the coil overs actually work.

I doubt it's going to be that heavy in the rear. Considering all that will be back there is the fiberglass body and a fuel cell.
 
So I just finished installing my rear coilovers . . . . I think its way to high. QA1 14" shocks, 17" fully extended. Also I feel like I got springs that were to stiff. are 175's to much?

Here's my setup: QA1's 12.375" mounted length, 14.5" extended; 115# springs. As to weight on the rear of the body, just a 10 gallon aluminum fuel tank, couple of fiberglass bucket seats and me (165 lbs). Rear suspension doesn't move much at all - maybe 1" -1.5".

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READ CCR and SPEED WAY build sheets for Tbuckets. They have the knowledge and parts that are proven to work. Or just call them.
JMTCW
 
Hmmm im going to look at the 11" and 12" and see which one I think will work better. Im almost double your weight lol. Bout 325 currently (but dropping!)

I like your setup. Is there any pros/cons with coilovers being vertical vs having some type of degree to it? Or is it just more or less personal preference with the right springs?
Can I ask how high your frame roughly sits from the ground?

Side note question, am I suppose to taper the steering arms when Im installing the tie rod and drag link?
 
READ CCR and SPEED WAY build sheets for Tbuckets. They have the knowledge and parts that are proven to work. Or just call them.
JMTCW

I actually used the CCR plans to build the basics on my frame. They do use a different front end on there build sheets from what I currently have. But Id say 98% of my parts are coming from speedway. I just have a few more odds and ends to wrap up and ill be competely done with the suspension.
 
I like your setup. Is there any pros/cons with coilovers being vertical vs having some type of degree to it? Or is it just more or less personal preference with the right springs? Can I ask how high your frame roughly sits from the ground? Side note question, am I suppose to taper the steering arms when Im installing the tie rod and drag link?

My frame is 11-1/2" from the floor just before the kickup. Of course tire size will have a big effect on that measurement. As to coil overs being vertical, mine just worked out that way when I set up the rear end. And I use heims to connect the tie rod/drag link to my steering arms - no taper required.
 
Ahh heims. I might have to go that route. The parts I inherited from my grandpa included the tie rod and drag link but with ball joints. But im assuming with ball joints Id need to taper it if im not mistaken

Im ordering new shocks now. Even though I dont have any real weight on the car yet, with the wheels (measuring it) my frame is sitting up at like 20". Way to high for me.
My next step will be getting my wheels and tires which will hopefully be next week. And then ill be waiting for my motor to show up.

Unfortunately from the way it looks like my front axle is setup, ill be going with the side mount style steering vs the cross steering.
 
Unfortunately from the way it looks like my front axle is setup, ill be going with the side mount style steering vs the cross steering.

That should work just fine. There are probably more T-buckets with traditional steering than cross-steering. Just pay attention to the geometry.
 
G'day Irishluck,"
If you check the website listing the shocks it will give you closed/open measurements (this will be eye to eye) For instance a 15" shock will be a 10"/15" and a 14"shock will be 9.5"/14" and so on. The rear of the chassis will come down 2" with 15" shocks using the same mounting points you have now. Obviously you will need to buy springs to suit as they are made in lengths to suit the different shock lengths. I set my coil overs to have 65% bump and 35% droop, works well. I believe a lot of coil sprung T's have around 115-120Lb springs on the rear, and 165Lb or so on the front. Everything is working against you with big tyres/wheels and a reasonably lightweight body/frame. Keep up the good work, gives someone like me something interesting to read about.
Regards,
 
G'day Irishluck,"
If you check the website listing the shocks it will give you closed/open measurements (this will be eye to eye) For instance a 15" shock will be a 10"/15" and a 14"shock will be 9.5"/14" and so on. The rear of the chassis will come down 2" with 15" shocks using the same mounting points you have now. Obviously you will need to buy springs to suit as they are made in lengths to suit the different shock lengths. I set my coil overs to have 65% bump and 35% droop, works well. I believe a lot of coil sprung T's have around 115-120Lb springs on the rear, and 165Lb or so on the front. Everything is working against you with big tyres/wheels and a reasonably lightweight body/frame. Keep up the good work, gives someone like me something interesting to read about.
Regards,

Well I thought I had looked at the details correctly. But maybe I didnt. They were 14" shocks as descibed by QA1. Extended length 17"-17.99". Compressed 11"-11.99". Mounted length 14". But im sending them back. Already bought some new ones and went with the 11" shocks with 200lb springs. Which im much happier with the 11" than the 14".

At this piont im waiting for speedway to send me my rear brake kit and ill then be purchasing my wheels.
 

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