Some ideas I like, seeking input

[RazzBarlow7]

I've been a fan of Track T's ever since I saw the Don Varner T that Lil John Butera built. I'm still in the planning stages of mine, but I thought I would run some ideas past you experienced folks here. I'm thick skinned, so don't be shy.

Frame: I plan on welding up my own using Youngster's plans & drawings (extended 10 inches - see below)

Body: RPM's extended 23 T Body (I'm 6ft 2in and 240 lbs, so I need the extra room) No bed, no turtle deck

Nose: This one from Speedway Motors with the aluminum grille they sell

Anyone know what radiator fits under this thing?

Hood: will have to have lots & lots of louvers, probably custom-fabbed

Fuel tank: I plan on using a vintage looking tank like this one:

I like that rear nerf too!
Front suspension: Drilled and dropped front axle, transverse leaf, hairpins or split wishbone radius rods, disc brakes, 28-48 Ford spindles
I like these shock mounts from Speedway:

Steering: Haven't made up my mind. I like the simplicity/safety of a rack&pinion, but part of me wants to figure out a way to have a pitman arm coming out of the side of the cowl like a sprint car. Drawback to that may be exhaust routing nightmare. Dunno, still undecided.

Rear suspension: Narrowed and centered 9 inch with Speedway's "fake" quick-change cover, transverse leaf spring, hairpins with a "nerf" added to them, probably drum brakes

Powerplant: Mild (reliable) SBC with a rumpty cam. Have thought about using welded aluminum valve covers and other modern race car dress-up bits for "shock value" instead of traditional old-school finned & chromed. Doesn't need to have gobs of power, car is light.

Trans: TH350 or 700R4 I'm too old and lazy to put a manual in it.

Tires: Firestone Dirt Track tires in the rear and the ribbed fronts (old school dirt track)

Wheels: WAAAAY undecided. I keep going back and forth between wires, Halibrands, artillery wheels, smoothies with chrome hubcaps

Interior: Comfortable but stark, keeping with the race car look and theme. I like the aviator/bomber style gauges

Obviously, lots of little things haven't even been brought up. I guess I need to start a notebook or something.

Anyway, that's my preliminary plan.

I plan on buying the body first, then building the frame.

 

[jmr122848]

Get all the major parts before building the frame. Trust me on this!

 

[Francis Blake]

I agree with that, if you are building your own frame you need to make sure everything will fit. Call speedway and they can tell you what radiator and support will fit the track t nose. If you are planing on a hood be sure it will fit if you plan on mixing manufacturers parts ( you could make your own hood). You are on track by making a plan so you can change your mind before you spend a lot of money. I speak from experience.

 

[benT]

In my opinion, there are better track noses out there. My Dad's '27 had that nose when he bought his and I didn't care for it then or now. The more oval opening ones are more pleasing to my eye and more traditional. As for cooling these noses, you're probably in for a custom made rad. My dad had a hell of a time cooling his with that nose even with a 4 core rad...he eventually ditched the nose and we reconfigured the front end and used a chopped '32 grille and a custom rad. Cools awesome now.

As for the frame, you might think about pinching the frame some more. Youngster's plans are a good start, but to do a nice track-t look, you don't want the front of the frame sticking out... My '27 build started with the body and the front shell. I designed and built the frame to work with them. If you don't you may get a finished product that doesn't look quite right, or in the style you want.

That being said, I love the track-T's! Welcome to the site and keep us informed of your progress.

 

[Youngster]

Ok first off, DON"T get in to big a hurry to start fabbing your chassis on this one. This is certainly not your typical build. You need to round up your major components first. You have a good start withyour list above. Try to settle on exactly witch parts you are going to use. Remember changing your mind cost $$$$. When I start a project like this, I get my parts starting with the most expensive one first. Something like this;

1. body including the bucket and the track nose
2. headers if they are purchased
3. tires or with oem type wheels
4. engine or a bare block and trans case
5. front suspension components
6. rear suspension and axle

With all of that you're ready to buy your tubing and build your chassis. With a car like this I would invest in a half dozen 2x4's, build a mock chassis and mock up all your majors. The mock up will tell you areas you need to rethink.

My personal preference for the nose would be the Speedway track rodder nose and grill if I where following Varner's lead. You need to remember your nose will be in front of the front xmember by quit a ways but your radiator will sit just aft of the xmember. You should be able to run a Mustang radiator with this nose also.

I would suggest a spring over the axle. It's real easy to build this type of car too low with a spring behind the axle.

That's enough for you to chew on for now. Any questions on that part?

Ron

 

[RazzBarlow7]

Ok first off, DON"T get in to big a hurry to start fabbing your chassis on this one. This is certainly not your typical build. You need to round up your major components first. You have a good start withyour list above. Try to settle on exactly witch parts you are going to use. Remember changing your mind cost $$$$. When I start a project like this, I get my parts starting with the most expensive one first. Something like this;

1. body including the bucket and the track nose
2. headers if they are purchased
3. tires or with oem type wheels
4. engine or a bare block and trans case Planning on using a plastic mock-up block and empty trans case
5. front suspension components
6. rear suspension and axle

With all of that you're ready to buy your tubing and build your chassis. With a car like this I would invest in a half dozen 2x4's, build a mock chassis and mock up all your majors. The mock up will tell you areas you need to rethink.

My personal preference for the nose would be the Speedway track rodder nose and grill if I where following Varner's lead. You need to remember your nose will be in front of the front xmember by quit a ways but your radiator will sit just aft of the xmember. You should be able to run a Mustang radiator with this nose also. I kinda like the track rodder nose too. Which Mustang radiator are we talking about here? Early Mustang, I assume?

I would suggest a spring over the axle. It's real easy to build this type of car too low with a spring behind the axle. Any pics of this setup that I can see? Everything I've seen has spring behind the T's. How low is too low? LOL

That's enough for you to chew on for now. Any questions on that part?

Ron

 

[RazzBarlow7]

Should say "spring behind setup for the T's" Are you talking about more like a traditional Duece front end setup?

 

[RPM]

I've been a fan of Track T's ever since I saw the Don Varner T that Lil John Butera built. I'm still in the planning stages of mine, but I thought I would run some ideas past you experienced folks here. I'm thick skinned, so don't be shy.

Frame: I plan on welding up my own using Youngster's plans & drawings (extended 10 inches - see below)

Body: RPM's extended 23 T Body (I'm 6ft 2in and 240 lbs, so I need the extra room) No bed, no turtle deck

Nose: This one from Speedway Motors with the aluminum grille they sell

Anyone know what radiator fits under this thing?

Hood: will have to have lots & lots of louvers, probably custom-fabbed

Fuel tank: I plan on using a vintage looking tank like this one:

I like that rear nerf too!
Front suspension: Drilled and dropped front axle, transverse leaf, hairpins or split wishbone radius rods, disc brakes, 28-48 Ford spindles
I like these shock mounts from Speedway:

Steering: Haven't made up my mind. I like the simplicity/safety of a rack&pinion, but part of me wants to figure out a way to have a pitman arm coming out of the side of the cowl like a sprint car. Drawback to that may be exhaust routing nightmare. Dunno, still undecided.

Rear suspension: Narrowed and centered 9 inch with Speedway's "fake" quick-change cover, transverse leaf spring, hairpins with a "nerf" added to them, probably drum brakes

Powerplant: Mild (reliable) SBC with a rumpty cam. Have thought about using welded aluminum valve covers and other modern race car dress-up bits for "shock value" instead of traditional old-school finned & chromed. Doesn't need to have gobs of power, car is light.

Trans: TH350 or 700R4 I'm too old and lazy to put a manual in it.

Tires: Firestone Dirt Track tires in the rear and the ribbed fronts (old school dirt track)

Wheels: WAAAAY undecided. I keep going back and forth between wires, Halibrands, artillery wheels, smoothies with chrome hubcaps

Interior: Comfortable but stark, keeping with the race car look and theme. I like the aviator/bomber style gauges

Obviously, lots of little things haven't even been brought up. I guess I need to start a notebook or something.

Anyway, that's my preliminary plan.

I plan on buying the body first, then building the frame.

If you are going to use that track nose or one like it. The frame may need to be just a few inches longer. Get the body first and all the major parts then lay it all out. Washing machine and refrigerator boxes on the garage floor and draw it all full scale before you cut any steel. Those boxes are free, and steel is pricey.

 

[Youngster]

The plastic blocks are nice. I prefer a bare block with heads, intake, starter and water pump. That way if you set your front end up with just the main leaf and a spacer to make up for the missing 3 or 4 leaves you come pretty close to your ride hiegth.

'67 Mustang radiator should fit easily in that nose.

I think Tfeverfred has a spring over in his car. Yes like a '32 set up. the thing is with the nose hanging over and beyond the axle you can do a lot of adjusting that will be hidden.

What would be really trick would be to have some 10ga. channel made with a 90 degree bend at the top and a 4" radius from there down to the inside bottom corner. You would have to box the inside separately but it would appear to have a bell pan. Opps sorry ... my minds drifting ... again.

Ron

 

[benT]

If you are going to use that track nose or one like it. The frame may need to be just a few inches longer. Get the body first and all the major parts then lay it all out. Washing machine and refrigerator boxes on the garage floor and draw it all full scale before you cut any steel. Those boxes are free, and steel is pricey.

Here is a few shots when I was laying mine out. I bought a few sheets of white hardboard from Lowes and used sharpies in various colors. You can "erase" if needed with a bit of carb spray and a rag. I marked the centerline on the body and then set it on the whiteboard and traced the body and center. Then start laying out rails and suspension points. What I'm saying is a simpified version, but you get the idea.

 

[EX JUNK]

That is one reason why you car looks just right, Ben. It is all in the planning.

Jim

 

[roadmonster]

I have a grille shell which appears to be from an old midget racer which has been widened to fit a V8 radiator. I would use the much better-looking Curtiss style shell and widen it to fit a full-size radiator (mine is a Walker). I don't use a grille, just edge trim around the opening. The tongue is optional.

 

[RazzBarlow7]

I have a grille shell which appears to be from an old midget racer which has been widened to fit a V8 radiator. I would use the much better-looking Curtiss style shell and widen it to fit a full-size radiator (mine is a Walker). I don't use a grille, just edge trim around the opening. The tongue is optional.

Honestly, of the 3 noses that Speedway sells, I like the Curtiss style least. Taking nothing away from the old Curtiss roadsters, they were great racers! I just aesthetically like the Track T Rodder and Sprint style noses better.

 

[RazzBarlow7]

So, it looks like my order of purchase is going to be:
1. RPM Body
2. Speedway Nose
3. Front suspension (complete, unsure of source yet)
4. Rear Diff and suspension (Currie's are friends, I'll buy diff from them. Unsure of supplier for rest of suspension)
5. Mock engine and mock trans. (I like the plastic block for ease of moving around. I am pretty sure I can get an empty trans case pretty easily)
6. Model A rear crossmember (From what I was reading, the original Henry steel is better, so eBay I guess)
7. Radiator
8. Bracket kit from RPM
9. 2x4s & hardboard from Lowe's for layout
10. 2x3 steel from local supplier

Hope I'm not "noobing" you guys to death!

 

[sstock]

Threads like these go long and far for the education of future T builders.
Good stuff guys.

 

[jmr122848]

another small point. on the first frame I built I built a 2x4 mock up. this time I trimed the boards to 1.5x3 from 1.5x3.5. last time I had to make a 1/2" spacer to make things work on part of the frame. I'm probably the only dummy that would do this, but I did.

 

[RazzBarlow7]

Gah! Just saw Win-Tec's 27T Lakester body. Now I'm waffling on my body choice!

 

[benT]

I really like the added room in the '27s...just saying....

 

[RazzBarlow7]

OK, this is getting farther and farther away from Varner's concept, but that's OK. I'm getting excited about this!
I think I'm going to go for something like this:

but with a nose closer to Varner's, probably the Rodder Track nose from Speedway:

I think I'm going to go with this body from Wintec:

Jim was really helpful on the phone. The body is priced right at $750.00. The only hitch is that the shipping company he uses wants $856.00 to 92111!!!!

Anyone have any suggestions to cut that down to a reasonable figure? Heck, I could just about drive to CT and back for that!

 

[Youngster]

Look at some of the old Zipper cars for ideas. Darrel really did a nice job on the design. Magoo taught him real good.

Ron