old round fart
Well-Known Member
If you are trying To hold the sides to your wood screws will never hold straight in the plies. Bolt a piece of angle to the sides and bolt the angle with t nuts through the seat.
T Bucket Interiors
- Thread starter tfeverfred
- Start date
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
I was wondering about that Fred. It happens to the best of us. Been around a lot of years, and I still try to learn something each day.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
The bolts for the brackets go in from the back or bottom of the two pieces. Screws will work, they just weren't the original design.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Okay. New day, fresh start. Just got back from Lowes with the lag bolts (which are actually screws). I marked and drilled the brackets. I also got a piece of 16ga to make a support in the middle of the assembled seat. Now, after my bonehead move with the tee bolts, I am treading a little slower. Taking my time and thinking things out.
Some may ask, "Why not take everything apart and use the inserts?" If it had been any other part of my car, I would have. But the bottom and back pieces came out a lot better than I thought they would. I'm really not sure I could do it that good again. Plus, I used a LOT of staples, so taking it apart would ruin the material. So, I'm adapting and over coming yesterdays screw up and moving on. The new bolts won't be visible or inhibit the final goal. Which is a nice, comfortable seat.
Some may ask, "Why not take everything apart and use the inserts?" If it had been any other part of my car, I would have. But the bottom and back pieces came out a lot better than I thought they would. I'm really not sure I could do it that good again. Plus, I used a LOT of staples, so taking it apart would ruin the material. So, I'm adapting and over coming yesterdays screw up and moving on. The new bolts won't be visible or inhibit the final goal. Which is a nice, comfortable seat.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Okay, here's the installed lag bolts. On the back, since it's a little longer, I used 5 on each leg. I used 4 on each leg of the bottom. They screwed in very securely. The images of the tee nuts, long forgotten.
Next, I installed a center brace. I used one longer than Rotten Leonards because it just seemed right. Over kill? Maybe.
And finally, the finished seat.
The back looks like it wasn't tight, but it actually is. Where the bottom and top piece meet, they're REALLY squished together. I should have left a little gap between the two. Again.... the learning continues. Later today, I'll trim the excess material for a cleaner look.
Next, I installed a center brace. I used one longer than Rotten Leonards because it just seemed right. Over kill? Maybe.
And finally, the finished seat.
The back looks like it wasn't tight, but it actually is. Where the bottom and top piece meet, they're REALLY squished together. I should have left a little gap between the two. Again.... the learning continues. Later today, I'll trim the excess material for a cleaner look.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
one finger john
Active Member
How thick is the aluminum (stamping?) for the seat sides ?
John
John
Has anyone tried these angles? Looks like with the bottom being flat instead of tilted up, you will want constantly slide forward. The research I have found is saying 15 degrees up and back. I am going to make a set for my 27 truck.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Mine will be tilted down a few degrees in the rear. I also left an area in the front of the bench with no webbing. So, when seated, your butt is a little lower and my thighs will be slightly raised. I've seen bolsters made in the front section, but I didn't think I'd need it with the rear lower than the front.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Yes and that metal brace s a non-issue. How could it be?
The metal section that's under the seat will be covered by the back piece of the seat base.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Ron, in this and the other example you posted, the seat itself is 90 degrees. The base has the angle built into it. Bomber seats can sit flat because the angle is built into the seat. I just sat in mine a while ago and the angle of the seat base, front to back is minimal, but there's no way I could slide forward, unless I wanted to. That's due to the space in the car itself. My legs with minimal effort, will keep me sitting in place. With my car the way it sits NOW, the angle of the seat back is enough. When I install the engine and transmission and set my shocks at the lowest level, the angle of seating will get even closer to the 103 degrees because my rake will be minimal.
Another thing to consider is seat length front to back. My usable seat length is 16", front to back. A small bolster in front MIGHT help, but the area just behind my knees wouldn't benefit, which is what a bolster is made for. If the seat was longer, say 18" - 20", then it would be worth it. In a standard T body, due to the small area, you're actually sitting ONLY on your butt, because your legs are bent at the knee. Your thighs barely touch the seat.
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Indycars
Well-Known Member
Sorry, but I still don't understand. I guess it's not important, you seem to have it covered.Yes and that metal brace s a non-issue. How could it be?
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
For a while. I kept trying to adjust my seats because the back angle LOOKED off or minimal. I couldn't figure out why. Then, I remembered that not only did I not have the full weight of the car on the chassis, but my shocks were at the highest setting. Those factors created a larger forward rake. The closer my frame gets to level or minimal rake, the better the built in seat angle will be.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
That large section of metal is on the BACK of the seat. That small section, on the bottom of the seat, will be sandwiched between the seat and the lower seat base. No metal will be exposed. And if there was exposed metal, I'd mount my wiring away from it. That's why I think it's a non-issue.
Did that help?
Indycars
Well-Known Member
Yep, got it now!
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