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To Jag or not to Jag.

Ok, I got one. Was from an 1984 XJS

Tags on back are 2.88 and P-L

I already started cleaning it up. Got the cage removed.



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Thats the same rear I have, except mine is an 87.

Be very careful with the e-brake setup, they are easy to break and hard to get parts for (at a reasonable price). Soak everything in penetrating fluid. They use a ton of anti-seize on these, but things still can be stubborn! Pay particular attention to the brake lines, they like to snap and they are not your standard double flare, they are all bubble flares and a pain to replace.

For the calipers, you can buy a rebuild kit for them for about $30, that will do both. A single caliper runs $300 or so but they are a very simple rebuild.


Oh yeah, take lots of pics as you are pulling things apart.
 
I'm going save the e-brake stuff. Maybe I'll use it later. I don't have an e-brake in my car. Wasn't planning on installing one.

oh and its $267 for a pair of loaded brake calipers, special order at autozone.

Still to much. I'll just rebuild what I have.

Nice thing on this one. Just about no rust. :)
 
Keeper, Did you shorten yours?

I haven't measured mine yet. But it don't look that long.
 
wow thats a great deal. I was quoted $300 for 1!! Of course they love giving it to us up here!

Yeah yours looks good, mine was rusted all over.

If you do not want the e-brake stuff, I would gladly take it off your hands :) I could only salvage one side of mine, but seeing that its a posi rear thats all I should need. I am going to hook it up to the VW e-brake handle I pulled a couple weeks ago.
 
Hello
I know this is an old post but humor me OK. I'm looking at one of these as well. Do you think the XJ6/12/XJS rear end at 60" is too wide? There are mid 1960's models - S type and 420 (compact) at 54" other wise the same as far as I can tell.
Also when you slip a Jag under with say a 27" high rear tyre how far are you stepping the rear of the chassis and what would the height of you chassis then be on the top of the rails under the body - that is before the kick?
Cheers
Tony
 
I'm going save the e-brake stuff. Maybe I'll use it later. I don't have an e-brake in my car. Wasn't planning on installing one.

oh and its $267 for a pair of loaded brake calipers, special order at autozone.

Still to much. I'll just rebuild what I have.

Nice thing on this one. Just about no rust. :)


Call John's Cars in Dallas Texas. He has new rotors for $39 each and rebuilt calipers. Can't remember the price on calipers but they were alot cheaper than autozone. I get all my jag stuff from him.
http://www.johnscars.com/
 
I Have a Jag diff case in my T coupe that I'm rebuilding with a 4.27:1 ratio PL, everything else is custom fabricated in stainless steel. The only reason I'm rebuilding it was due to the mouting flange being slightly off & whilst I was doing that I decided to fit a TH 2004R trans as well, which meant changing ratios to allow a reasonable cruising speed with the high final drive ratio. My diff came from a 68 XJ6 with a 2.8L engine, the only one with that option, but I'd already bought several others with ratios ranging from 2.8 to 3.77!!

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Hello
I know this is an old post but humor me OK. I'm looking at one of these as well. Do you think the XJ6/12/XJS rear end at 60" is too wide? There are mid 1960's models - S type and 420 (compact) at 54" other wise the same as far as I can tell.
Also when you slip a Jag under with say a 27" high rear tyre how far are you stepping the rear of the chassis and what would the height of you chassis then be on the top of the rails under the body - that is before the kick?
Cheers
Tony

No the XJ rears at 60 are not to wide, you just need to buy wheels with more backspacing. Here is a rear shot of mine, though mine is a 23 you get the idea. Mine are 16x10 with 5 backspacing. I could have went to a 6inch but at the time of purchase I wasn't sure they would have fit.

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I was told by a jag mech that the e-type shock/spring combo are near perfect for a bucket as the e-type is about 2200lbs. The XJ's are 4000+ so the ride with the stock springs is rough. Over the winter I will be swapping mine out for the softer springs, along with some lower gears as my 2.88's are a bit much having a 700r4.
 
Hey Keeper. What is the bed that you have on your bucket? Can you show a side view want to get an idea of the length, think I am going to change mine this winter and this might be just what I am lookng for.
 
That's what mine looked like when I picked it up, although it was already out of the car ('77 XJ6). Have the guy remove the entire "cage" in one piece and send it to you.

There should be a metal tag on the one of the diff cover bolts that will have two numbers and possibly the letter "P", which would denote a "Power-Loc" diff... Jag's version of "posi-traction." The lower number on the tag will be the number of teeth on the pinion gear, and the higher one the number of teeth on the ring gear. Divide the higher number by the lower number and you will get your gear ratio.

In overhauling my Jag, I did everything myself except the differential rebuild. It takes a special tool to get the differential carrier out of the case, plus I didn't have the patience or confidence to do that job myself. I rebuilt the calipers and e-brakes with kits from Rock Auto. I replaced the rotors with new ones from O'Reilly. I knocked out and replaced the bearings in the hub carriers. I replaced the roller bearings in the inboard and outboard lower control arm pivots with urethane bushings from CWI (no longer in business). There may still be a place to get the urethane bushings... Google is your friend. If you can't find the urethane replacements, I would NOT disassemble the stock bearings... very fiddly to replace and set clearances! I would just pump new grease through the zerks until it runs clean out the bearings. On a T these are not going to be carrying much load, nor will there a be a lot of movement of the suspension.

EDIT: Found a source for the "urethane" bushings (they're actually High Density PolyEthylene, or HDPE)... http://www.car-stuff.com/jaguarsuspensionbushings.htm

Here is what my Jag looked like after I cleaned it up and primed it...
Hey Lee;
Sounds like you know about the Jag rearends! I have a E-Type Series 1 early 60's rearend and can't get the right wheel plumb. I've shimmed the half shaft far as I can and is still 3/4" leaning in. I've been thru almost all of the parts, but I'm stuck on this. Maybe this winter you could take a peek at it,sounds like we're pretty close on the map. Jimmy
 

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are both bottom arms the same lenth, and the dirve shafts, i know this may sound weird but there are different lengths of shafts etc so worth a check
 
There's a guy here in Califorina , Hamilton Automotive Industries he speclizes in all Jag rear ends for T-Buckets and Hotrods. He is a a great engineer, met him thru family and been getting some of my stuff made there for my bucket. If you guys can't find gears or parts ask him.
 

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