Unusual pipe bluing

[dblair]

The carb part number shows an economy tuned replacement carb for GM factory engines. This will not be too bad if you are competent in disassembling and tuning Edelbrock carbs. There is a possibility you have a vacuum leak, the carb is not adjusted right and you can get it in the ball park of running OK.
If you want to work with what you have, start by following the procedure of adjusting the idle mixture screws, in the video Mike posted.
If you will put your vacuum line on a manifold vacuum port, you can use it to aid in the adjustment. The port needed will have high vacuum at idle. Plug the unused port.
If you want to get the right carb, I will defer to the Edelbrock users on here and let them recommend something that is working good for them.

If you try the carb adjustment, get back to us and let us know how it went and what you encountered in the procedure.
I will look up the cam card to get an idea of what kind of idle you should have. Let us know how the car idles, rpm, vacuum reading and tip in throttle response. Be confident, sounds like a nice engine.

11 inches of vacuum at 1000 rpm. The cam is going to have some chop to it. If you can swing it, I think you will be better getting another carb.

 

[dblair]

Well I found a lot of things. I did compression test all are 185 -195 cold .Found two plugs that were bad ,one on each side. found out that one set of points in the duel point distributor was not working. I removed and ran one set of points. Car runs good but real rich.I ordered another carb, And going to change out distributor. any ideas on the one I should use? Thanks for all the information, timing is ok also

 

[railroad]

The new electronic distributors are nice and easy to install. You did not say what brand you have now, but would guess an old Mallory. If you happen to like the old distributor, you can convert it to electronic with a Pertronix kit. Although not necessary, I would opt for a dist with a vacuum advance. On the "running rich", could be a couple of things. It does sound like timing, but could be fuel pressure. I have forgotten what fuel pump you have. Good luck. It sounds like you have made some good progress.

 

[fletcherson]

The carb part number shows an economy tuned replacement carb for GM factory engines. This will not be too bad if you are competent in disassembling and tuning Edelbrock carbs. There is a possibility you have a vacuum leak, the carb is not adjusted right and you can get it in the ball park of running OK.
If you want to work with what you have, start by following the procedure of adjusting the idle mixture screws, in the video Mike posted.
If you will put your vacuum line on a manifold vacuum port, you can use it to aid in the adjustment. The port needed will have high vacuum at idle. Plug the unused port.
If you want to get the right carb, I will defer to the Edelbrock users on here and let them recommend something that is working good for them.

If you try the carb adjustment, get back to us and let us know how it went and what you encountered in the procedure.
I will look up the cam card to get an idea of what kind of idle you should have. Let us know how the car idles, rpm, vacuum reading and tip in throttle response. Be confident, sounds like a nice engine.

11 inches of vacuum at 1000 rpm. The cam is going to have some chop to it. If you can swing it, I think you will be better getting another carb.

The edelbrock performer avf (carter afv) carbs are pretty easy to tune. They sell individual parts and tuning kits with jets, rods, springs, etc and the book they include gives decent suggestions. I have one that actually came new with the wrong size jets in it per their literature, so if you rule out all else, open it up and see exactly what you have. The problem you are describing could be caused by the carb or could be causing the problem with the carb. Verify compression, firing order, spark plugs, timing, vacuum, etc...The basics. Then if no issues show up and there is no vacuum leak, tear into the carb. A infra red thermometer is a very useful tool for this or the old school crayon (exhaust temp is what you are looking for) will tell you whats going on from one cylinder to the other and that is what you need to know. You likely have a misfire or vacuum leak, but just guessing. Just methodically rule out the individual items and you will find it!

 

[fletcherson]

Well I found a lot of things. I did compression test all are 185 -195 cold .Found two plugs that were bad ,one on each side. found out that one set of points in the duel point distributor was not working. I removed and ran one set of points. Car runs good but real rich.I ordered another carb, And going to change out distributor. any ideas on the one I should use? Thanks for all the information, timing is ok also

Buying a new carb is not the answer here. Save your money and get the ignition and timing right, then start tuning the carb last! They are not difficult. They are built to work on and modify and there is a lot of good support available. Buying a new carb will likely put you in the same place with less money. Just my thought! MSD, Accel, Mallory, Petronix are all good from my experience. Why not just stick a stock hei in it to get it running and upgrade? If you are thinking of installing a timing controller or capacitive ignition box, do your homework before you start buying parts. They aren't all compatible. Good luck!

 

[fletcherson]

Buying a new carb is not the answer here. Save your money and get the ignition and timing right, then start tuning the carb last! They are not difficult. They are built to work on and modify and there is a lot of good support available. Buying a new carb will likely put you in the same place with less money. Just my thought! MSD, Accel, Mallory, Petronix are all good from my experience. Why not just stick a stock hei in it to get it running and upgrade? If you are thinking of installing a timing controller or capacitive ignition box, do your homework before you start buying parts. They aren't all compatible. Good luck!

Additionally, Timing, and air fuel ratios are all subjective to fuel quality, climate, driving habits, cam/gear, etc...All of them are adjustments that are your friend as a builder and tuner. There are no pre-determined settings that will just work in a modified engine. There are base line settings to get you started, but you have to go from there based on the result. Carbs will not work out of the box, they require tuning and adjusting. You really need to look at all of the parts that you selected for your build and match the new parts that you want to them and plan on spending time making them work together. Make adjustments and take good detailed notes for reference and go from there. No amount of money spent on new parts will eliminate this process unless you pay someone else to do it. Learn how to use a vacuum gauge, timing light, and related tools to your advantage and don't be afraid to adjust things, you can go back if need be as long as you pay attention and take notes. That's how you learn to make em scream rather than them making you scream! I am not in any way implying anything by my comments, just trying to give some free advice, whatever it's worth!