Windshield Posts, again

[Johnny]

Alright, I'm getting ready to try and tackle this deal. These posts never fit and always have a big gap. I read Ted's post on building the area up with fiberglass. He points out to wax the post real good before placing it over the glass. Question: What kind of wax do I use? Automotive, furniture, or something else?
Thanks

 

[old round fart]

All you need is something fiberglass won't stick to so you can take the post off after the 'glass dries. I would use some of that shiny duct tape to do it. Good luck. John

 

[EX JUNK]

All you need is something fiberglass won't stick to so you can take the post off after the 'glass dries. I would use some of that shiny duct tape to do it. Good luck. John

I agree 100%.

Jim

 

[TriodeLuvr]

Back when I was modifying 'Vette bodies, I would use plastic wrap or aluminum foil for this. Both will stick to the 'glass, but they can be sanded off in a few seconds. I should add that the plastic wrap only works with epoxy resin. Polyester resin will eat through it.

 

[409T]

I've always used cheap masking tape. I have a friend who uses mold release or paste floor wax, whichever is handy. I don't know how much mold release he uses, but with paste floor wax he uses coats. If you want to use wax, wax up a piece of scrap steel, pour on a little resin with catalyst or Kitty Hair or plastic filler, let it dry and see if it will come off. I love using Kitty Hair for stuff like this, but I know a lot of people who absolutely hate it. Your mileage may vary.

 

[RPM]

We just rough up the body area. Mix a big batch of bondo, apply this big batch of bondo to the body, then quickly put a plastic bag over the bondo and set the post into the plastic bag and bondo. Hold the post where you want it till the bondo kicks. Once the bondo kicks remove the post and the plastic bag. Now blend in the bondo to the surrounding body area. The plastic bag wont stick to the bondo once the bondo kicks and it keeps the post out of the bondo. It will leave a real nice edge for you to sand the rest of it to. This is really a simple quick job.

 

[Johnny]

Ron, my posts have a pretty large gap. Will the bondo be okay being that thick? No worry about cracking or falling out?
Thanks

 

[RPM]

How much gap is there? I would not go more than 1/4" on the bondo.

 

[butch27]

I used Dura glass and drilled holes before applying it so it could grab.

 

[TriodeLuvr]

This is really a simple quick job.

I sure wish the guy who built my car had done that. I just spent a week grinding a set of posts because the gap was so large (I'm changing to straight posts). When the original builder installed layback posts, he filled the gap with black caulk/sealant. I didn't want to repaint the body, so I modified the posts instead. Not my first choice, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do...

 

[Zandoz]

May I ask why you switched from the laid back posts to the straight? My current plan is to use is to use laid back posts like the ones below. If there is a problem with the laid backs that would effect me I need to change those plans.



The other idea had would be to go totally the opposite direction and just put a pair of Brooklands style windscreens on it. That would definitely be the easiest route

 

[TriodeLuvr]

I'm changing to straight posts so I can install a taller windshield and a soft top. My posts are the short type, and all the current offerings are smaller than the previous owner used (made by Total ten years ago). That really complicated the changeover. What I anticipated to be a couple hours turned into more than a month of ordering and returning posts that were too short to fit, then grinding the contour out on the only pair that were long enough (left-overs from a line of posts no longer made). If not for the generosity of people like Jerry (CCR) and Josh (Spirit), I'd be dead in the water.

 

[Johnny]

How much gap is there? I would not go more than 1/4" on the bondo.

Here is my gap with frame bolted to post

 

[Johnny]

here it is without frame. Sorry for crappy camera. The gap is smaller without frame but still is pretty large. Guess fiberglass is going to have to be used.

 

[Johnny]

I've always used cheap masking tape. I have a friend who uses mold release or paste floor wax, whichever is handy. I don't know how much mold release he uses, but with paste floor wax he uses coats. If you want to use wax, wax up a piece of scrap steel, pour on a little resin with catalyst or Kitty Hair or plastic filler, let it dry and see if it will come off. I love using Kitty Hair for stuff like this, but I know a lot of people who absolutely hate it. Your mileage may vary.

409T, do you have a certain brand of that kitty hair to use? Would I want short strand, or long strand?
Thanks

 

[409T]

409T, do you have a certain brand of that kitty hair to use? Would I want short strand, or long strand?
Thanks

Evercoat, long strand. I get mine from TCP Global, but I would think most auto body suppliers have it.

 

[2old2fast]

Something that has not been mentioned here is keeping the posts in alignment & properly spaced during this exercise , "standard" windshield sizes must be known before you start globbing on filler . When I did mine I made a template out of plywood the size of the finished frame , clamped it to the dash [centered] then screwed the post to it ... after determining where & how much filler was needed I unscrewed 1 side at a time & applied the filler then pressed the post in place & screwed it back to the template . I used 2" wide cellophane packing tape as a "mold release".
dave

 

[TriodeLuvr]

I don't actually understand why this is necessary. Do any of the posts currently available fit any of the bodies without the need to do this?

 

[butch27]

I also did the plywood thing.

 

[Johnny]

I don't actually understand why this is necessary. Do any of the posts currently available fit any of the bodies without the need to do this?

Don't think so.