A Bit More Progress

[old round fart]

May have "dents" in the sides to clear rods. How about welding 1/8" plate to the bottom of your pan?

 

[choppinczech]

May have "dents" in the sides to clear rods. How about welding 1/8" plate to the bottom of your pan?

That may be what I'll have to do.

But my pan also has a great big drain plug that sticks way out. Adding another 1/2" of valuable clearance space.

I need something with a somewhat recessed plug.

 

[old round fart]

While you have the welder out move it or make a ramp to move it over an obstruction.

 

[Tjbucket]

You, my friend are sick! Awesome work you do, and your engine sounds beautiful. What carb are you running? It gets better each time you post! Amazing what you can do....cannot say enough! I am running just under 3 inch clearance.......not good. Hope you have a plan.....looks very low.....

 

[choppinczech]

It's right at 3" also. I might toy with the front spring hangers to get the front end up a bit.

 

[choppinczech]

You, my friend are sick! Awesome work you do, and your engine sounds beautiful. What carb are you running? It gets better each time you post! Amazing what you can do....cannot say enough! I am running just under 3 inch clearance.......not good. Hope you have a plan.....looks very low.....

The carb is a Quick Fuel 750 Slayer.

 

[Gerry]

d to section my sump by about 1". I made up a thick plate to replace the bottom half and at the same time moved the drain plug to the rear. I figured that if I have to jack the front end up to drain it all, so what, no hardship every few years considering the mileage it will do.

You need a good person to weld thick to thin without any leaks. How do I know... I'm not that person







it got very messy and I had to do some rescue work with brazing to stop the pins holes from leaking

 

[rubicon]

Every time I look at your build, I tell myself, you would be a great neighbor to have. There is an empty house right around the corner from me. Just something to think about. Oh and the winters in Wisconsin are not bad. Instead of surfing and laying on the beach you can spend your time working on your projects when the show flies.

 

[choppinczech]

You need a good person to weld thick to thin without any leaks. How do I know... I'm not that person

That's good.

Gerry, your pan is exactly what I'd like to do. I like the gradual slope rather than a sump that seems like a "catch-all".

 

[Gerry]

Gradual slope was my way of trying to increasing the capacity as I took an 1" out of the depth. Forming the plate did take a little time and effort. Should be no problem for you. Best advice I can give is to get a GOOD welder to join the two together.

I'm a reasonable welder but that one was beyond my skills.

 

[old round fart]

Do you have a baffle to slow down the oil rushing to the front when braking?

 

[gif]

how low are you? now your making me nervous about mine...

Gerry, that pan is a great idea. i like that better than just skinning the bottom of the OEM pan.

 

[EX JUNK]

I'm sitting at exactly 2 13/16" clearance at the lowest of my Slam-Gard pan with no problem at all in over 20 thousand miles.

Jim

 

[tfeverfred]

I'm sitting at exactly 2 13/16" clearance at the lowest of my Slam-Gard pan with no problem at all in over 20 thousand miles.

Jim

My old one was 4.5" and I thought that was low......LOL

 

[choppinczech]

Something like this could be an option for me. Modify mine with a shorter but wider sump. I'm pretty sure I have room on both sides.

 

[fletcherson]

I have a pan very similar on mine. I was going to send a pic to you, but you found it. It works well and has a drain on both ends, not the bottom. The down side is it makes starter access less than preferable. I was able to get a high torque starter on my BBC, but I'm going to try to switch to a mini gear reduction type.

 

[choppinczech]

My pan is 7 1/4". This one is made for stroker motors and is 6 1/2".

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-21315

Pricey. But time, materials and headaches always add up to the same for me.

 

[fletcherson]

My pan is 7 1/4". This one is made for stroker motors and is 6 1/2".

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-21315

Pricey. But time, materials and headaches always add up to the same for me.

Yea, you can only redesign so many things at a time.... I think mine is a milodon, it came with the car. Jeggs has them for 99.00 for two piece rear seal, 159 for Ls. I was able to use a standard pan on my stroaker with no interference issues, but I clearanced the corners of the rod caps, not the block.

 

[Gerry]

Do you have a baffle to slow down the oil rushing to the front when braking?

I cut the pan so the original baffle was in its original place. Must admit it was a bit of a task, but personally I couldn't live with a pan that's wider at the bottom. Also I couldn't find one for my engine anywhere. Just a personal thing.

At 99 bucks though its a sort of no brainer.

 

[choppinczech]

The problem I have with using a router and say a 1/2" flush trimming bit or mortising bit is clogging the flutes with aluminum. WD40 helps keep them clear, but what do you use?

I also get these amazingly tough little 1/8" round over bits from an overseas eBay seller. They're great for easing the corners on brackets.

I usually don't use the full round over. Just ease the sharp corners.