A Bit More Progress
- Thread starter choppinczech
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choppinczech
Well-Known Member
I could hug the inside of the body along with the angle.
But my doors are so long they'd really flop open. I was wanting them to swing parallel with the ground.
But my doors are so long they'd really flop open. I was wanting them to swing parallel with the ground.
Could something be worked out with a hooked hinge similar to a trunk hinge? I've been planning to try to use them because of the way they swing the door away from the opening, for easier handicapped access. But I've not given any detailed thought to how to accomplish that, because that issue is so far away.
The other idea that comes to mind is to do some kind of speed blister fairings for the external hinges.
The other idea that comes to mind is to do some kind of speed blister fairings for the external hinges.
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choppinczech
Well-Known Member
I've got this extra bit of body line at the top making it even worse.
The more I've been getting into it, the less it bothers me to have the outside hinges. The entire front half of the car is traditional so to speak. What with the split wish bones, spring, headlights and all.
The rear half could actually use a bit also. Sounds weird but as I'm sitting here looking at the car, I'm OK with it.
The more I've been getting into it, the less it bothers me to have the outside hinges. The entire front half of the car is traditional so to speak. What with the split wish bones, spring, headlights and all.
The rear half could actually use a bit also. Sounds weird but as I'm sitting here looking at the car, I'm OK with it.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
The thing is, you need a long hinge to combat the angle, so you either see it outside or give up space inside. I spent hours staring at mine, lol...
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
I've been putting this off for about a year.
I'll do it like this. Hopefully in a tasteful way.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
I'm trying to do inside hinges too but haven't progressed far enough to see how screwed I am! Thanks a bunch PAL!
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
It is doable if you get the pins right up against the body. I just don't care for the doors on an downward angle as they open.
I don't know. It's a toss up. That's what makes fab work so much fun.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
I caved and built replica model T hinges. It is after all a T... I tried to use model a type, they would work, but I didn't like the fact that they require a very deep mortise to fit flush because they don't close flat (the hinges) . I don't have room to spare inside at all, so that's not an option for me. With my small doors, I couldn't justify putting a whole bunch of energy into trying to reinvent the wheel, so to speak, especially after getting feedback from several guys who use the originals. I can see why you are trying to do something different, you have a entirely different scenario, with the larger doors and a redesigned body. It's frustrating after putting hours into something to learn it won't work! Been there many times. I used stanly swing away door hinges, flattened, cut them to size, and welded the strap to them. They worked great, but for light doors. For yours, if you wanted to try something similar, I would look for heavier commercial hinges with bearings. They would be pleanty heavy to handle it.
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
Yep. Lots and lots of swearing yesterday.
The picture is correct. If you want the door to swing parallel to the ground the hinge pins have to be in line and perpendicular to the ground. The easiest way to accomplish this is take out the pins and replace them with a rod that is long enough to go through both hinges at the same time while they are spaced the correct distance apart. This will keep them parallel to each other, now you just have to make them perpendicular to the ground or whatever reference you choose. As in your picture, the measurement from the body to the lower hinge pin will probably be greater than the same measurement at the top pin.
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the replies.
The pins are in-line, plumb and parallel to the ground. The binding isn't in the hinges. They're nice and smooth. The binding is in the front edge of the door.
The issue is the difference of space between the upper and lower hinges to the side wall of the body. The upper part of the door is too far away from the upper hinge.
Without a vertical side wall on the body, the only way to get no binding (at the outer most point) is to keep the vertical line to that outer most point.
Which in my case is here.
The pins are in-line, plumb and parallel to the ground. The binding isn't in the hinges. They're nice and smooth. The binding is in the front edge of the door.
The issue is the difference of space between the upper and lower hinges to the side wall of the body. The upper part of the door is too far away from the upper hinge.
Without a vertical side wall on the body, the only way to get no binding (at the outer most point) is to keep the vertical line to that outer most point.
Which in my case is here.
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
Back when I was doing this, I could have easily made that section of the side wall vertical. Arrrrrg!
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
In passenger cars, there is a void that allows the door to overcome those issues. In ours, there isn't enough room to sacrifice for that.
Gerry
Well-Known Member
So change the front line of the door. Its got to be easier than a whole redesign of the hinges surely????
I have had to change things that I committed to, defended to the last and argued with friends about until finally I gave in, sat back and thought about it for a while, and decided that sometime we have to go backwards to go forwards. As always JMHO.
G
I have had to change things that I committed to, defended to the last and argued with friends about until finally I gave in, sat back and thought about it for a while, and decided that sometime we have to go backwards to go forwards. As always JMHO.
G
I have the same problem with the suicide doors on my Model A. I was able to use suicide door hinges from Electric Life to make it work because while opening they kick the door off the body enough that the hinge side lip of the door doesn't dig back in to the belt line when the door is all the way open. I believe the stock CCR hinge does this to a degree as well.
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