All-World's bucket project

[all-world1]

Well this is it! I've spent the last 8 months assembling chassis components for my nostalgic bucket project and now it's time to get to the build. I don't have a big budget, so we'll see how it goes.

I'll be building to Youngster's Plan Set and will be using an A-rear crossmember and spring. This could be the first "RonSter" in Canada (I hope he doesn't mind the name).

It's my first experience with cutting and welding steel (took a night course) and the really great thing is there are so many guys on this site with decades of experience always willing to lend advice...and I thank you all for that.

The list of parts I've got so far:

One set of Ron's plans...and tons of his technical thoughts
1 1/2" by 3" rectangular steel....rails and kick cut to size
3" drop tube axle w/ batwings
Front leaf spring and shackles
Set of 36" hairpins
Set of 27" hairpins
Rear end hairpin hanger brackets
'37-'41 Ford spindles w/ king pin set
'56 F-100 backing plates, drums, hubs
'67 Mustang drum-drum master cylinder
Ford 8" rear end w/ drums
Reversed corvair steering box
Turbo 350 trans
283 SBC...to be rebuilt this winter

Total spent to date: $1,218

To start this project off, the tapered rail cuts are planned for next week....let's pray for minimal warpage! I will post pics as the saga continues.

Craig

 

[old round fart]

Sounds like a fun time is fixin' to happen! We will be watching and waiting to help when needed. Go for it!

 

[donsrods]

Your list looks very good. I like 2 x 3 x 3/16 tubing better, but what you have is certainly ok. I just think the bigger tubing provides some additional strength and has a prettier profile (more rounded corners), but that is a subjective choice.

Keep us posted on your progress and shoot lots of pictures.

Don

 

[donsrods]

You mention warpage, make sure you clamp it all down to some sort of jig or structure to keep that from happening. Steel when welded will pull like mad.

Don

 

[tfeverfred]

Very nice list. I look forward to watching it come together. It's cool you're able to do so much of the work yourself.

 

[all-world1]

Very nice list. I look forward to watching it come together. It's cool you're able to do so much of the work yourself.

Gonna give it a good try...this has got to be the best way to learn.

 

[all-world1]

You mention warpage, make sure you clamp it all down to some sort of jig or structure to keep that from happening. Steel when welded will pull like mad.

Don

Thanks for that Don. One thing I'm trying to secure is a straight steel tabletop for clamping. Your jig gives me a good idea.

Craig

 

[Youngster]

You've done a good job of picking the right pieces for you T. You will do just fine with the steel work. Practice on some of the cut off tubing be fore you weld the frame. You can never practice too much. By the way, what are you using for a welder?

You know where to fine us.

Ron

 

[all-world1]

I'll be using the welder from the warehouse at work. It's a Hobart MIG...I believe it's a 140 amp. We used Lincolns at the community college.

 

[Youngster]

That should work just fine. When you do your practice tubing, try to set up the joints so you can see the inside of the tube after the weld. You can see what sort of penitration you're getting that way. Each welder will have it's golden setting for you. Most welders have a chart inside the cover to give you a starting point. Your Hobart might not if it's an open spool machine. If thats the case, let me know and I'll get one to you. On a machine I'm not familiar with, I'll set the voltage first and then play with the wire speed/amp adjustment 'til I find that sweet spot. Remember to keep your wire stick out the same each time you run a pass. The longer the stick out, the less amperage. Good point to remember when filling holes.

Hope this helps. Just remember, the 3 things that make a good welder, practice, practice, practice.

Ron

 

[VegasBruce]

Ron it sound like you've been on welding web.

 

[Youngster]

Nope, started learning the skill when I was 14. Been burnin' up electrodes and wire ever since. Dare I say that was 48 years ago? Man o man, now time flys, seems like yesterday when I was in Mr. St.Clairs shop class.

Ron

 

[all-world1]

Man, 48 years....that's a few welds.

Ron, we talked about your right angle die grinder for the long cuts. I have a small electric angle grinder, if I use a cutoff disk I should be able to have similar control for keeping the cuts nice and straight, unless I'm going to run into issues I never thought of.

 

[Youngster]

That will work too. Use your die grinder to score the tube first. It will act as a guide for the larger cutting wheel. Give some thought to the angled die grinder though. They are so handy in so many ways. I don't know how I got along without one for so long. I have two of them, one with a cutting wheel and one with a 3" sanding disc.
As a matter of fact, I just picked up a replacement one at Lowe's the other day. $50 worth of smiles and happiness. The 20 year old finally went belly up, RIP buddy.

By the way, I don't mind the name thing, it's an honor, but I think you should call it "The Craigster".

Ron

 

[VegasBruce]

Nope, started learning the skill when I was 14. Been burnin' up electrodes and wire ever since. Dare I say that was 48 years ago? Man o man, now time flys, seems like yesterday when I was in Mr. St.Clairs shop class.

Ron

That is a lot of welds, I've only been welding about 20 years, ever since I sent my welder home then had to get the job done myself. Now welding is 90% of my job. Not bad for having a fool for a teacher. :funmeter2:

Sorry 'bout the hijack.

 

[all-world1]

This morning was the day of the practice wedge cuts for the tapered rails on a piece of scrap tubing. I mocked it up with the same dimension as the plan, used an electric angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and was very surprised how straight the line can be followed with this setup.

Found out the hard way....don't stand behind the grinder....need new coveralls.

 

[LumenAl]

...Found out the hard way....don't stand behind the grinder....need new coveralls.

Got a little warm too didn't it! :ciao:

 

[all-world1]

Tapered rails cut

My wife told me that I couldn't start the bucket until I finished renovating the bathroom. So I did the only logical thing....took the rails down to our warehouse at 5 a.m. and had the tapers cut by 8.

I can see that some of the chassis buildup will have to done under the guise of darkness...lol

Hope the photo attachment works.

The cuts look a little rattier than they really are because of the frayed masking tape. It was fairly easy to scribe a quick line with an angle grinder with a 1/16" cutoff wheel. For the relief cuts, the scroll saw was extremely fast and I'm just wondering if it would have been a good choice for the 25" wedge cuts. The spacers are still in tact, as per Ron's suggestion, to reduce any chance of excess warpage.

Craig

 

[Youngster]

Re: Tapered rails cut

Nice job Craig. I knew you could do it. When you cut the spacers, the tubes will spring apart and you will see a little warpage. Not to worry, this is normal. Clamp the end of the tube, checking to be sure you have 2", and clean up your cuts with the cut off. That will help maintain equal spacing in your cuts. A small tack will hold that 2" setting. When your ready to set the tapers up for welding, lap the tubes like in the "plans". Have at least 6" of unmolested tubing laping. Clamp here and at both ends of the taper. Now skip weld the taper cuts. Don't be in a hurry. Let the first set of welds cool to the touch before running the second set. Let me know if you have any questions.

Ron

 

[all-world1]

Ron, I assume that I would clamp the existing tube in place, then cut the spacers, bevel the edges and finally bring the bottom section up and clamp again.

Another question...this is my first metalworking project so please bear with me. To bring up the bottom section, do I need to heat up the rail bottom at the relief cut?