all-world1
Member
No, I missed that one. Just took a look at it a few minutes ago and they offer quite a variety of DOM tubing. Lots of other good stuff too. Thanks for that.
All-World's bucket project
- Thread starter all-world1
- Start date
all-world1
Member
Here we go again. I looked at when I made my last post and Aug 01 came up....looks like I've been catering to my wife's every whim since then. Don't know if you guys have the same problem with wives but things were getting out of hand. So I finally finished all the make-work projects around this loony-bin and now I'm back in business just as the weather turns a frigid -30. Luckily we have a nice warehouse at work that I can get to under the guise of darkness.
Before I put things aside, I had welded up the tapered frame rails according to youngster's plans. As of today, the welds have been ground, the 2" holes drilled and the front outer sides radiused.
I've got lots of ground to make up....so let the good times roll.
Before I put things aside, I had welded up the tapered frame rails according to youngster's plans. As of today, the welds have been ground, the 2" holes drilled and the front outer sides radiused.
I've got lots of ground to make up....so let the good times roll.
rooster57
Member
I started my build and also had to remodel the upstairs bath under direct threat of death. The warden was insistant the bathroom was more important. I tried to argue but soon came to my senses and remodeled the bathroom. Bathrooms done , Now my body is out for paint and the planets are all lined up again.
As a side note i mig welded all my welds and then i washed over them with a tig and my welds turned out to look like they were caulked it was just what i needed since i wanted to powdercoat. Now my welds look like they were filled and sanded but they were not. Very smooth
As a side note i mig welded all my welds and then i washed over them with a tig and my welds turned out to look like they were caulked it was just what i needed since i wanted to powdercoat. Now my welds look like they were filled and sanded but they were not. Very smooth
all-world1
Member
Yup, I was forced to do the bathroom too. Can't they just learn to go behind the garage?
all-world1
Member
I have a couple of very slight depressions where welds were ground down along the tapered cuts......I suppose some bondo will likely cure that.
all-world1
Member
Getting back to the project...
If it's not one thing it's another. After repairing some water damage from a huge ice dam on my roof, I'm back to it. Just got into the squaring of the frame but I found one problem which I may have to rectify. I had previously welded the kicks to the main rails before getting to the rear crossmember. The left main rail/kick is ok, but on the right side the kick was not exactly welded in line with the main rail. The top of the kick is about 3/16" inward from the right main rail, so my outside-to-outside frame widths are:
main rails...23"
top of kick...22 13/16"
top rails at crossmember 23"
Should I make a relief cut at the mainrail-to-kick joint to move that kick over 3/16" before I tie everything together like in the pics?
Craig
If it's not one thing it's another. After repairing some water damage from a huge ice dam on my roof, I'm back to it. Just got into the squaring of the frame but I found one problem which I may have to rectify. I had previously welded the kicks to the main rails before getting to the rear crossmember. The left main rail/kick is ok, but on the right side the kick was not exactly welded in line with the main rail. The top of the kick is about 3/16" inward from the right main rail, so my outside-to-outside frame widths are:
main rails...23"
top of kick...22 13/16"
top rails at crossmember 23"
Should I make a relief cut at the mainrail-to-kick joint to move that kick over 3/16" before I tie everything together like in the pics?
Craig
this happens sometimes craig when you are table welding a frame. cut the joint and tack the front xmenber in place. this will help prevent some of the distortion from the welding. a jack can be used to move the rail back to the 23" measurement. it's is important that you only tack the frame together here and then recheck your dimentions before finial welding.to help prevent this from occuring again, cut 2 pcs. of wood or tubing to use as spreaders while your doing the finail welding. one at the front xmenber, one at the rear xmember and your third one where you have it in the pic. after tacking the pieces, check the dimentions. get ready to weld and check everything again. not to worry, you can get there from here.
let me know if you have any questions.
Ron
let me know if you have any questions.
Ron
all-world1
Member
Thanks Ron, so then to get that kick back to the 23", the first thing I need to do is cut the mainrail-to-kick joint on the top, bottom and outside welds? Not sure how the jack is used in this case.
I can now see the advantage of using scrap stock and tubing for keeping everything straight during welding....a hard lesson learned.
I can now see the advantage of using scrap stock and tubing for keeping everything straight during welding....a hard lesson learned.
all-world1
Member
Well, I got the kick issue straightened out. The more I looked at it, not only was it bent inward a bit, but it had a slight twist to it. I had absolutely no confidence in cutting and welding again....in other words, I didn't want to screw it up more than it already was, so I got a buddy to do it for beer, and he did a decent job.
So it's back to the warehouse to square the thing up again. If anyone hears of a Truckload-of-Bondo Sale going on, please let me know.
So it's back to the warehouse to square the thing up again. If anyone hears of a Truckload-of-Bondo Sale going on, please let me know.
all-world1
Member
Amid all the flooding here, here's what I have so far. For the most part, the frame is welded up and the front spring perch is next. Speaking of the perch, I made a huge mistake in forgetting to slip the perch brackets over the 2" front crossmemberm before welding it to the rails. So I cut the brackets in half and got a buddy to tack the halves together around the front tube. And then came screwup #2...I also forgot to tack in that temporary crossmember across the rails, so I asked him if he would quickly tack it between the rails while doing the brackets....he put a good continuous bead along the entire crossmember joint and did a nice job of grinding it too. So I've got some serious cutting to do down the road. One step forward and one step back.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
I like it and I can relate to the feeling. It's a learning process, man. See it, fix it and it will probably never happen again. Your chassis looks great. Keep going. You have a sweet build coming along.
Ted Brown
Member
Youngster said:craig here's a sketch of the hairpin mount i was talking about
opps...guess ya gotta lay down to look at it.
i wouldn't worry about the cross member just yet. chances are with it being back so far it might be ok right there.
Ron
When using regular hair pin type of radius rods (3point mounting) the frame mounting bolts should be square with the axles, not the radius rods to be totally correct. puts no bind in anything. But, with such a small amount of movement, do what looks best to you.. Just a thought...
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