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Anything Wrong With This?

bobs66440

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
I want to run tube shocks on the front of my T but I'm having a heck of a time figuring out where they can go without modifying my mounts and/or fabricating all new brackets and such.

Originally I planned on using the long shackle studs and mounting them to the shackles, but I would have to run the shock upside down and these aren't designed for that, sooo. My solution is to mount them this way by welding a stud to the rear of the axle. That way I can use the shocks I have and the mounts as is (I know the shock is upside down in the photo).

Is there any reason why I can't mount them at an angle this way? I realize that the damping rate will change some, but is it enough to worry about?


 
Weather or not they can be mounted upside down is based on the shock design itself. Beyond that it does not matter.
 
Well, I decided to get a set of the shackle plates that have the third hole to mount the shock to. I'll have to lengthen the mounts because the shocks are too long....
 
Well the first thing I see wrong with it, is that you used duct tape to mount them... ;) Id like to see the finished product when you get it all figured out. Seems to be a common problem with "how to mount shocks" that people are always looking for. Either way you do it, a grinder and welder can always fix it in the future. Goodluck
 
Would putting about a 20 or 30* degree bend in the upper shock mount help? You may have to weld the mount on top of the frame rail and use a gusset for strength.
 
I have the same mounts from RPM and love them but I mounted mine on the inside of the frame instead of the outside. Don't know if it will help or not.
 
Would putting about a 20 or 30* degree bend in the upper shock mount help? You may have to weld the mount on top of the frame rail and use a gusset for strength.
After thinking about it some more, I think that the side load from the angled shocks wouldn't be good for those mounts. Especially since I plan to bolt them to the frame by drill and tapping the frame.
 
If you drill and tap, be sure the frame is as thick as the nut for that bolt. A 10-32 screw would be fine in a 3/16" thick frame but 1/2-20 bolt? Not so good!
 
If you drill and tap, be sure the frame is as thick as the nut for that bolt. A 10-32 screw would be fine in a 3/16" thick frame but 1/2-20 bolt? Not so good!
Good thought. The frame is 3/16" and the holes in the bracket are for 5/16" bolts. It is borderline (I measured regular 5/16 nuts. They are 1/4" thick) and may work ok since there are four (two top and two side), but I may be better off flush welding in some nuts. I really don't want to weld them on. I don't like the way it looks and I like the option of being able to remove them.
 
Still marginal for me. If I was going to do it I would ether put in a tapped slug that went all the way to the other side or a tube with a nut on the other side of the frame, in that order. When you hit a bump there will be a good load hammering on the shock so I would want it beefy! John
 
ASME says that full thread strength is 1.5 times the diameter,,,, 1/4 bolt takes 3/8" wall. Sure it can be shorter,, but the strength diminishes with it. Shock mounting is always a pain when you build from scratch. :)
 

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