ballast resistor.
- Thread starter oino
- Start date
Maybe I found my answer.
From v8buick.com:
"Wire from a 12v with the key on, to the resistor, then to the + side of the coil. Then run a wire from the R terminal of the starter to the + side of the coil.
The 12V from the starter will "bypass" the resistor while you're trying to start the car. It was this way from the factory and helps with cold starts."
From v8buick.com:
"Wire from a 12v with the key on, to the resistor, then to the + side of the coil. Then run a wire from the R terminal of the starter to the + side of the coil.
The 12V from the starter will "bypass" the resistor while you're trying to start the car. It was this way from the factory and helps with cold starts."
one finger john
Active Member
Chris, what type of distributer do you have? Point style - yes, you need the resister to protect the points from excessive voltage that will cause point burning. HEI distributers require the full 14.5 volts (?) to function. Actually, 12 volts are fine, anything more from the charging system is gravy.
John
one finger john
Active Member
If you have a resister installed then you should have 6.5 volts to dist. I don't think the car will start that way but will run. The 12.0 volts when starting is from the starter solenoid.
Been a while since I played with points. Actually no reason not to run what you have. Make sure the points are gapped at .016, little bit of point grease on the actuating lobes (?sp) and a good condenser, your good to go. Easier to dead stick time it for the first fire up. I believe that you are supposed to have 12.0 volts to the coil and 6.5 volts to the points.
You can call the maker of the wiring loom you are running and they would help you out. Once explained you will slap your forehead and say "That was easy, why didn't i figure that out myself"
John
one finger john
Active Member
Advantages - one wire, 12.0 volts to dist., self contained, easily modified for more oomph (voltage wise)
Disadvantages - Big cap, sometimes will not fit between firewall and engine, probably cost $120.00 -150.00 for new one (that is the only way I would go, NO OFF SHORE JUNK), you already have what appears to be a good points distributer, why spend the money? Research it a little, get some information that will last you a life time and be great, obscure dinner conversation. Did you know that you can set Chevy points with a match book cover? Cover is .016 thou. Or close enough. Dazzle your friends. Be "old skool".
John
benT
Active Member
If you want small and electronic, I recommend usnig a Pertronix electronic ignition conversion kit. Both my dad and I have them and they are easy to install and work great. If you use their coil (about the same $$ as a reg. aftermarket coil) you do not have to run any sort of a ballast resistor. The kits are slightly under $100 bucks for the basic ones and you can use your old distributor. In the end you get good modern electronic spark with a small cap. Summit has good prices on them. I have a Mallory Unilite electronic distributor and the electronic module burned out a few times. I finally put a pertronix kit in the mallory distributor and it has been stone reliable.
one finger john
Active Member
Been looking at wiring diagrams for oino and they all show the resister installed before the coil/distributer. To my mind that would indicate that both receive 6.5 volts with the 12 volts from the starter as a booster on start up. IIRC that would mean there are special resister coils that function on a resister's voltage. Not 12 volts. oino might have the wrong coil, that is why it runs fine on 12 volts but with 1/2 the voltage it won't function
I'm not confused, I need a little clarification on the matter. ADMIN MIKE could you help out?
John
I'm not confused, I need a little clarification on the matter. ADMIN MIKE could you help out?
John
ok I see now. The starter I have was on the engine when I got it. Which came out of a Truck 1980 something.
If I look at a starter for an 1982. It looks like mine. But a starter from a 1969 looks different. It has an extra place the wire to the coil.
So I'm going to need a different starter or an HEI Dist.
Hotrod46
Member
If your starter is good, you may just need to change the solenoid to the earlier model. Might save a few bucks. You can also get a solenoid contact repair kit that will replace the contacts and cap on your current solenoid.
I don't know what engine your running, but if it's a small block Chevy and you need replace the starter and have the 168 tooth flywheel, tell the parts guy you want a starter for a 1970 Chevelle with an LS6 454. Or you can get a starter for a 454 1 ton truck from the early 70's. It will have the correct solenoid connections for points and be heavy duty (high torque). The prices at the national parts places are usually about the same as the lighter duty units, so go for the better part. I upgrade every time I replace a starter on a small block.
You may have to change the starter bolts if you have the tiny 305 type starter.
Mike
I don't know what engine your running, but if it's a small block Chevy and you need replace the starter and have the 168 tooth flywheel, tell the parts guy you want a starter for a 1970 Chevelle with an LS6 454. Or you can get a starter for a 454 1 ton truck from the early 70's. It will have the correct solenoid connections for points and be heavy duty (high torque). The prices at the national parts places are usually about the same as the lighter duty units, so go for the better part. I upgrade every time I replace a starter on a small block.
You may have to change the starter bolts if you have the tiny 305 type starter.
Mike
one finger john
Active Member
Wow, you are moving right along, I was going to say get a 1970 solenoid for your starter and wire it up. But this is good. Check to make sure advance weights are free and lubricated. You can modify later.I got an HEI Dist.
$40. Off craigslist. Stock one from a chevy.
Installed it, Now car seems to run and sound a bit better. Just need to get the timing.
Did you ever figure out why the front end was so stiff?
John
Not yet.
Cars all most done now.
Body is bolted on. Just timing, horn, wire clean up and double check every thing. Then I can move it out.
one finger john
Active Member
Don't want to pin you down, but I might be available if you need help for the final phase. Do you have a time frame? I know you have to lift it over that side fence.
John
John
lol, Thank you. I might need help with the Alignment.
My neighbor got rid of there junk cars. So I'm going to take down some of the wood fence and drive it out though there driveway.
