Battery cable question
- Thread starter bob8823
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EX JUNK
Moderator
fordsbyjay
Active Member
I've always used 1/0 welding cable in all my regular cars. It's pretty heavy and have never had a problem with it. I don't see why the #2 wire Jim mentioned wouldn't work however.
I also prefer these type of cable ends. http://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/mor-74170/overview/
I have used this style of end in both side and top mount. I have them on everything but the bolts tend to come loose and require the occasional maintenance.
http://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/pco-0879g/overview/
Then of course you have the standard solder type connector for the eyelet end available in copper at your welding store or parts store.
One thing I would do is call as many places as possible for pricing. I find prices really varied in my town.
I also prefer these type of cable ends. http://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/mor-74170/overview/
I have used this style of end in both side and top mount. I have them on everything but the bolts tend to come loose and require the occasional maintenance.
http://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/pco-0879g/overview/
Then of course you have the standard solder type connector for the eyelet end available in copper at your welding store or parts store.
One thing I would do is call as many places as possible for pricing. I find prices really varied in my town.
EX JUNK
Moderator
My bad, it should have been #2/0 weld cable. (Another senior moment.) It is very flexible and can carry the current.
Jim
Screaming Metal
Active Member
As Ex Junk said! Bigger than you need is good, small than you need ='s heat and resistance....
For normal stuff, reg. hi-perf. usage, I normally go with 1/0. That is with a 6-8' cable run.
Blown bigblock, high compression ro stuff of that stuff....2/0 @ 6-8' cable run.
over that distance, snaking around frame members, up into battery boxes....the longer the run, the more resistance. The only way to combat this is to enlarge the gauge of your cables. Welding cale is alot more flexible, has more current carrying capacity over a short time, is chaff resistant....
For normal stuff, reg. hi-perf. usage, I normally go with 1/0. That is with a 6-8' cable run.
Blown bigblock, high compression ro stuff of that stuff....2/0 @ 6-8' cable run.
over that distance, snaking around frame members, up into battery boxes....the longer the run, the more resistance. The only way to combat this is to enlarge the gauge of your cables. Welding cale is alot more flexible, has more current carrying capacity over a short time, is chaff resistant....
EX JUNK
Moderator
Also make sure to ground the engine to the frame along with the negative terminal of the battery to the frame. Poor grounds are the single most problems in an automotive electrical system.
Jim
fordsbyjay
Active Member
And they are very difficult to troubleshoot because they can effect electronics in irregular patterns where it does one thing this minute then does something else tomorrow. Lights and stuff are on/off devices but electronic ignitions, computers and such are a lot more sensitive to grounding problems.
I over ground by running a ground from the battery to the frame, to the engine, the firewall (in a steel car) or through the firewall in a fiberglass car so that I can tie the electronics under the dash in as well.
Screaming Metal
Active Member
All great info! I see alot of folks using those old cheapo, $1.99 universal battery clamps on $25,000 show rigs. 1st or 2nd time you have to remove your battery, the gap has closed up , if you don't use alot of caution and use your battery post terminal pullers everytime, etc.
Do yourself a favor and go out and buy the Military battery post clamps. Its a big thick clamp, and has a 5/16 or 3/8's bolt that attached the battery cable to the battery post. Want to undo the cable, take the nut off.....leave the battery clamp on.
Alot less wear and tear, looks alot better and is heavy built. You can even use 3 or 4 large cables with the brass lugs with those battery terminals....
http://www.premierpowerwelder.com/terminals/terminals.html
Do yourself a favor and go out and buy the Military battery post clamps. Its a big thick clamp, and has a 5/16 or 3/8's bolt that attached the battery cable to the battery post. Want to undo the cable, take the nut off.....leave the battery clamp on.
Alot less wear and tear, looks alot better and is heavy built. You can even use 3 or 4 large cables with the brass lugs with those battery terminals....
http://www.premierpowerwelder.com/terminals/terminals.html
Last edited:
fluidfloyd
Active Member
Thanks Screaming. I have never seen these before. Looks like just what I need.
George
George
Indycars
Well-Known Member
That's interesting, I just read about those style battery clamps in a book by Tony Candela called " Automotive Electrical Performance Projects" (SA209).
http://www.amazon.com/Sa-Design-Aut...ie=UTF8&qid=1385337441&sr=8-16&keywords=sa209
Trying to gear up for an electrical rewire of my car.
http://www.amazon.com/Sa-Design-Aut...ie=UTF8&qid=1385337441&sr=8-16&keywords=sa209
Trying to gear up for an electrical rewire of my car.
All great info! I see alot of folks using those old cheapo, $1.99 universal battery clamps on $25,000 show rigs. 1st or 2nd time you have to remove your battery, the gap has closed up , if you don't use alot of caution and use your battery post terminal pullers everytime, etc.
Do yourself a favor and go out and buy the Military battery post clamps. Its a big thick clamp, and has a 5/16 or 3/8's bolt that attached the battery cable to the battery post. Want to undo the cable, take the nut off.....leave the battery clamp on.
Alot less wear and tear, looks alot better and is heavy built. You can even use 3 or 4 large cables with the brass lugs with those battery terminals....
http://www.premierpowerwelder.com/terminals/terminals.html
Hotrod46
Member
It might be considered overkill, but I have always ran a ground along with the positive all the way from the Batt to the starter. I usually use a ring terminal under one of the starter bolts to attach it. It eleminates 2 connections to the frame. Fewer places for connection problems. I also use Adel(sp?) clamps to attach the cable to the frame about every 12-18".
+1 on the heavy welding cable. I even used 2/0 on my 46 because I had it laying around.
Mike
+1 on the heavy welding cable. I even used 2/0 on my 46 because I had it laying around.
Mike
Screaming Metal
Active Member
When ya'll get the big cables, the crimper you can get from a welding supply place for about $15 to put the big, heavy copper ends on. Trim your insulation back, slide on the heatshrink tubing, shove it inside the copper terminal, put it into the crimper, and a big Lovetap with a 5# hammer, and she's on there for the duration.
Me, myself, I use a propane torch with 1/8" soldier to soldier the terminal to the cable. That keeps the corrosion from making a bad contact between the cable and the terminal. Then I slide the heatshrink tubing up on the copper lug and shrink it on. Looks nice and professional.
Along with the Starwashers, use a little Vasoline on the copper ends and clamps to keep the corrosion at bay.
Me, myself, I use a propane torch with 1/8" soldier to soldier the terminal to the cable. That keeps the corrosion from making a bad contact between the cable and the terminal. Then I slide the heatshrink tubing up on the copper lug and shrink it on. Looks nice and professional.
Along with the Starwashers, use a little Vasoline on the copper ends and clamps to keep the corrosion at bay.
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Well, the ideal thing would be to use #2 lugs, a box of them is less than $6. But, if you want to use #2 lugs on 2/0 cable....you can trim it down.
What I do to adapt a #2 to a 2/0 is I peel the insulation back, then I solder the cables end up solid. The I can use my belt sander to achieve a tight fit to the #2 copper lug. Then, I solder it to the soldered end of the cable....
"use a little Vasoline on the copper ends and clamps to keep the corrosion at bay."
Should use no-ox, https://illuminationsupply.com/misc...conductive-grease-2oz-p-362.html#.UqJkjfsa6So
Should use no-ox, https://illuminationsupply.com/misc...conductive-grease-2oz-p-362.html#.UqJkjfsa6So
jimbo01
Member
I'd like to use a tinned terminal for aesthetics purposes only on the starter instead of the copper. Everything else under the body I can deal with. Out of site out of mind kind of thing. The next problem that I see is the hole in the terminal for the electronic connections. What do you do to close up the 1/2 inch hole?
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Well Jimbo, Since I do have the Kick Butt Tig Setup, I just close it up with the TIG, but have used a copper washer and soldered it on top and bottom of the lugs. But they do also make those lugs with all kinds of different sized holes in them. They do make a special washer for that purpose, from a electric supply house. Its called a shim washer or a cheek washer, its made from copper also, and adapts the hole to a smaller stud size
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