Big redo of the old bucket
- Thread starter PotvinGuy
- Start date
Intrepid
Active Member
worst case you could add a DC to DC converter to regulate the voltage.
I have used Vicor in the past for 115 VAC 400Hz aircraft on a 28 VDC bus with allot of fluctuation due to the 28 VDC strobe lights. really good stuff they should have 12 VDC stuff.
http://www.vicorpower.com/dc-dc/isolated-regulated/dcm
I have used Vicor in the past for 115 VAC 400Hz aircraft on a 28 VDC bus with allot of fluctuation due to the 28 VDC strobe lights. really good stuff they should have 12 VDC stuff.
http://www.vicorpower.com/dc-dc/isolated-regulated/dcm
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
Does it have a data logger to show what led up to the event?
No. Very frustrating. I've put an oscilloscope on the ECU power leads and can't see any noise. I've shielded the cable to the handheld. I've put caps across the power at the ECU. Put a ferrite core on the + wire. Next step is to tackle the ignition. Will call FAST tomorrow and see what tests they run.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
Those intermittent type problems are difficult. It could be any component or connection. Those are very frustrating to find. Without a record, or a way to monitor the input, output values, like a block learn or similar program, it's pretty much trial and error. Even with a scanner, meter, etc, you have to catch it at the moment of fault. Hopefully fast has seen this before and can point you in the right direction. They have the advantage of duplicate components to switch out. I have spent untold hours monitoring, testing, changing components on various machines over issues similar to this. I feel your grief. It could be a solid state component overheating, a cracked circuit board, cold solder joint, a program glitch, or just about anything. Perhaps a digital volt meter with memory to monitor the ecm power supply while driving to help prove or disprove your theory? Have you verified the primary power source to verify that the voltage is consistent? I had a room sized X-ray motorized viewer do a similar thing, and after literally changing every digital component at the direction of the manufacturers engineers prompting, and putting it through its paces for hours, I caught it, it turned out to be static buildup. It may not even be a faulty component. Of course, I'm armchairing at this point. Hopefully you will have good news for us soon!
Been too cold here to work on it. Maybe this week.
I've apparently found the problem with the EFI handheld resetting. I rewired the power and ground to the ECU:
The difference is subtle, n'est-ce pas? Before the ECU got it's power and ground from busbars shared with all the other loads of the car, said busbars being connected to the battery with heavy 2ft wires. After the rewire the ECU now connects straight to the battery.
So, boys and girls, what have we learned? 1) Sometimes the vendor gets it right. The instructions were very clear and I ignored them. 2) BUT why does FAST or any vendor sell car parts that are so touchy? Yes, as other loads change we would expect minor changes in voltage and noise at the busbars. VERY minor considering the busbars are connected to the battery with 2ft of 12 gauge wire. But cars are messy places electrically
; any part for a car should be able to handle at least 10 to 15 volts, constantly varying, and with plenty of noise on it.
The difference is subtle, n'est-ce pas? Before the ECU got it's power and ground from busbars shared with all the other loads of the car, said busbars being connected to the battery with heavy 2ft wires. After the rewire the ECU now connects straight to the battery.
So, boys and girls, what have we learned? 1) Sometimes the vendor gets it right. The instructions were very clear and I ignored them. 2) BUT why does FAST or any vendor sell car parts that are so touchy? Yes, as other loads change we would expect minor changes in voltage and noise at the busbars. VERY minor considering the busbars are connected to the battery with 2ft of 12 gauge wire. But cars are messy places electrically
; any part for a car should be able to handle at least 10 to 15 volts, constantly varying, and with plenty of noise on it. 
old round fart
Well-Known Member
Did you smack yourself on the forehead and quote Homer Simpson (dohhh!)? Glad you found it. You will sleep well tonight.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
Good, you found it! I hate those seemingly simple fixes after reinventing the wheel to figure it out. One would thing that if the controller is that sensitive to voltage fuxuations, they would include a power conditioner type gismo to regulate it. A big capacitor or something.I've apparently found the problem with the EFI handheld resetting. I rewired the power and ground to the ECU:
The difference is subtle, n'est-ce pas? Before the ECU got it's power and ground from busbars shared with all the other loads of the car, said busbars being connected to the battery with heavy 2ft wires. After the rewire the ECU now connects straight to the battery.
So, boys and girls, what have we learned? 1) Sometimes the vendor gets it right. The instructions were very clear and I ignored them. 2) BUT why does FAST or any vendor sell car parts that are so touchy? Yes, as other loads change we would expect minor changes in voltage and noise at the busbars. VERY minor considering the busbars are connected to the battery with 2ft of 12 gauge wire. But cars are messy places electrically
UPDATE: went for a drive today and the FAST EFI handheld was constantly resetting. What the heck? Well, I had been working on the motor and left one of the plug wires disconnected. I don't quite know how that can affect the EFI, but after reconnecting the wire the resets stopped. I think I'll call FAST and see what they say.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
That thing seems overly sensitive to me. I'd be ready to install a carb, lol. If your ignition was sending high voltage spikes into the ground, I could see it messing with the microprocessor signal, it also may have been trying to compensate for the errant parameters due to a dead cylinder??? I have two pro jection systems, one is an older one with potentiometers to adjust, the other uses a eprom, and neither of them have any such issues, thankfully.
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
gif
Member
old round fart
Well-Known Member
I agree!
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
Wha? You guys are talk'n way over my head.
You guys know I'm just kidding, right? I'd give anything to have the technical skills some of you have.
My brain just don't work that way.
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