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Birth of Long John

When I built my car with the stock cast steering arms, I calculated the wheelbase would have to be 40 feet for correct Ackerman! Never bothered me. Then I redid the front end with new spindles and had Ron make some arms to dial in the Ackerman. Didn't seem to make any difference. You know Ackermann only matters when making turns and all that happens is a little scrub on the tires. P1020923.JPG
 
I’m closing in on steering completion. Spent all day today trying to get a Speedway wheel with their adapter on a Flaming River tilt column! Almost took it to the dock and pitched it thrice! Getting the turn signal cancel, the hub, the bezel, the steering wheel, and the horn button retainer all lined up was VERY frustrating! Then from the dark corners of my defective little pea brain I remembered t trick from the boat mechanic part of my life. I cut the heads off 3 bolts, stuck them in the hub then stacked all the shit on until everything was in place! Removed studs one at a time and done! Remember that trick ladies and gentlemen! Think nice things when it works for you!
 
I’m closing in on steering completion. Spent all day today trying to get a Speedway wheel with their adapter on a Flaming River tilt column! Almost took it to the dock and pitched it thrice! Getting the turn signal cancel, the hub, the bezel, the steering wheel, and the horn button retainer all lined up was VERY frustrating! Then from the dark corners of my defective little pea brain I remembered t trick from the boat mechanic part of my life. I cut the heads off 3 bolts, stuck them in the hub then stacked all the shit on until everything was in place! Removed studs one at a time and done! Remember that trick ladies and gentlemen! Think nice things when it works for you!
Read instructions first.
 
The instructions were very unclear. I think the hub that came with the kit was not comparable with the turn signal switch that came with the column. It had a 9 bolt wheel adapter and I’m using a 3 bolt wheel. Besides- I’m a firm believer in reading AFTER you try it first!
 
Never read the insructions first, that might help make it work.............LOL....Just look at all the new experiances that you get....LOL......
 
Got my tailgate today. I will need to stretch the last 4” of the pickup bed to fit it right. This way I can mount a standard radiator in the rear. If I need more cooling I will have the option of adding a second radiator next to the first one.
 
Aw man, you have 3 fans and I only have 2. Now I have fan envy to add to my other shortcomings.

lid2 003.jpg
 
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Mine came with a relay and temp sensor. I didn’t see instructions but they may be in the bottom of the box. Air the welds look good and it’s a perfect fit!
 
Mine came with a relay and temp sensor. I didn’t see instructions but they may be in the bottom of the box. Air the welds look good and it’s a perfect fit!
Yeah, that probably just turns the fans off and on at a set temp. Jegs unit varies the speed of the fans. Starts at 50% and ramps up as needed to maintain selected temp. Easier on fans.
 
That is worth looking into. The pump I’m thinking varies flow to keep temp in range. That may change as it’s about $300 if I remember right. Regulating the fans may be way cheaper!
 
Ah! Which pump are you looking at? I know most of them. My pump is 30 years old and I keep thinking it's gotta go someday.
 
The C-D pump kit, pn8970, is $400 on Summit. It is quite the fancy deal. It varies the pump speed, and it also can turn the fans off/on. And it can keep the pump and fans running for a while after the motor is off to suck some heat out of the motor (avoids possible boil over; I do it with mine).
Now there are many electric water pumps available these days. Different flow rates, different inlet/outlet fittings and directions. Jeg's has a 20 gpm pump for $180 and a 50 gpm pump for $246. And other makes go up to $500. Flow rate is a black art. The more the better, but more costs more too. How much do you need? Depends on radiator size, fan air flow, length and size of water lines, motor...really impossible to know. My pump is a marine bilge pump (all I could find 30 years ago) and I have no idea the flow rate, but it isn't much. And another consideration are the inlet/outlet fittings and directions; many choices there too. Where do you mount it and how do the water lines connect so they are not pretzels? Here's the C-D pump and a Jegs pump:
water pump.jpgjegs water pump.jpg
I imagine there are adapters to fit big hoses or AN hose. But consider how the radiator hose would attach and how you want the output line to point. The Jegs pump has in and out in same direction.
Lots to make your head spin, eh? I've never seen the C-D in operation, but the principle seems OK. Lemme know if I can add anything. I don't have all the answers, but will pretend I do.
 
Thanks! Pretend answers are always a hoot! I don’t know what flow rate I will need. That is kinda why I thought C-D would be an option. I think I can feed them my data and they can tell me what I need as far as flow rate gallons per hour ect. My concern is possibly air flow. I would like to use a louvered panel on the tailgate. I had one made but it is much taller than I need for this radiator. I was going to use a taller radiator so I thought a bunch of louvers (96 I think) but with the shorter rad. I’ll have to check. I may end up with a tail gate like yours for necessary airfiow.
 

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