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Brake bracket location using the stretched body

Coremat is a subtrait that allows resin to soak in and makes a very strong, rigid, light weight floor or whatever and it's not prone to rot, like wood products.
 
Jerry,

Thanks for the information.

Fred,
How did you guess! I may see how it looks off to the side. It does not mean I can't move it. I saw in one of the pictures that a piece of aluminum or similar material is used as a cover for the master cylinder opening. More holes to cut.

I like the coremat floor. I have stood on it with the body on the frame and there is very little give. I weigh 230 lbs as well.

Later,
PaulR
 
Jerry,

Thanks for the information.

Fred,
How did you guess! I may see how it looks off to the side. It does not mean I can't move it. I saw in one of the pictures that a piece of aluminum or similar material is used as a cover for the master cylinder opening. More holes to cut.

I like the coremat floor. I have stood on it with the body on the frame and there is very little give. I weigh 230 lbs as well.

Later,
PaulR

Stand? Hell, I used to jump into my car sometimes. The only thing I did was bounce out the other side!:D As for the M/C hole, I cut mine out and did it in such a way as to be able to use the cut out piece as the top. I Drew it out. Drilled a small hole in each corner and cut it out with a portable jig saw. I added a couple hinges and a stop to keep it from slipping down. Got the hinges from Lowes for less than $10.
 
Jerry, what are the center line to center line mounting measurements of your master cylinder?
 
If that coremat is only 2mm thick it will take a lot of layers to make a floor in a bucket.
Spirit uses it in some of their body's in the roof, I dont know about the floor. I have heard that it is very strong and will hold fasteners, etc... I have no experience with it personally. I didn't learn about it untill after I began forming my floor with plywood as a substrate and ordered biaxial mat, etc... I didn't want to build molds for a one off project and I am fairly proficient working with wood and felt comfortable going that route.
 
I think Spirits is more like 1/2" thick. It is in the ceiling and floor of my delivery. It will hold screw fairly well. I think the roof would hold up with several people standing on it. It also prevents lots of heat from the inside.
 
Fred, can you be a bit more specific as to which dimension you're looking for?

As far as the coremat goes, it's a stiffener and we use it in a few areas other than our floors to hold shape where there is no ribs, large flat areas such as our doors or lids it keeps the flat areas flat and adds considerable strength. It is actually used between the fiberglass layers, not built up for thickness. Here's a cross section example.

Floor Detail  (1).jpg Floor Detail  (2).jpg Sportdeck Photo.jpg
 
Sorry I didn't catch that. We actually laser cut all those brackets so they are slotted and fit both the Ford and GM master cylinders. It saves having to file those holes out so you can spend more time with the wife, kids or friends. This one is the Power brake style but the manual one is the same.

29730 (1)szd.jpg
 
Nice! I can't wait for my parts to show up Saturday!
 
Would that 2mm coremat really be helpful in making a floor that is lighter than plywood?

Butch, I'm not familiar with the actual process or exactly how CCR does it, but it's plenty strong and light. I had to remove the body from my old T a few times by myself. It was an effort due to it's size, NOT it's weight. And it NEVER flexed or cracked. No wood bracing needed. Just like CCR states. True, they cost a bit more than regular bodies, but when I see all the threads with guys reinforcing a regular body, I honestly shake my head.

Maybe the guys working with all that mat, hardner, special tools, etc like the challenge or they're just DIYers by nature. Me? I'm going to pay the extra cost and have, what I believe, is the best T Bucket body made.
 

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