bucket of bolts build

I picked up a roller T a few weeks ago and plan on finishing it up. Its look like its a Total performance frame and tub. This will be a budget build not will it have much chrome( I hate it lol) I am not shure how many previus owners this has had and it has been sitting around for quite a while.

 

The bucket came with a 9" rear end with a set of 3.50 open gears and drum brakes from a 72 mustang.

 

It came with a 1972 302 sbf with a C4. The C4 is suppossed to be have a shift kit(??) with a 3500 stall converter. The transmission crossmember is right in the way of where the brake master cylinder is supposed to go so I will have to move the cross member. The 302 has a set of 1969 (I believe) heads on it with a comp cam of some type in it. The heads and intake are just sitting on it lightly bolted down. There is no starter, distributor, fan, fan pulleys, push rods or carb. I was told it was .20 over and was honed and new bearings installed many years ago and has been sitting since. So the motor is a mystery and will need to be torn down to see what is there and if it is in good shape.

 

The front axle is a I beam with disc brakes from a AMC car. It has cross over steering with a vega steering box.

 

Sounds like the "bones" are there, just needs finishing.

 

there is no interior and I plan on running a set of bucket seats and will probably add some fiberglass to strengthen it a little more and bed liner it. The outside will get painted flat black primer with the outside fire wall painted red primer with maybe some scallops down the sides. i figure some flat black steel wheels with big and littles.

 

Ok for the not so good, the I beam axle is twisted so not sure that I can use it. Its from a 40 ford. You have to look hard to see it but its got a twist to it. I did not notice it when looking at it to buy it. I would have bought it any way but I would have used it to lower the price a little more.
The frame (ok most of the metal) has surface rust, not sure if I want to clear coat it and keep the looks or blast and paint it.

 

for the most part yes.

 

A good body shop that does chassis repair can help you "un-twist" that axle. And I would definitely paint the frame.

 

thanks

 

Not really going to get much done on this as its elk hunting and tuna fishing season right now. After the middle of October I should be able to start working on it more as those seasons will end. When I went pick it up I rented a uhaul trailer and had to drive over three hrs. I did get to stop by and chat with the people who built my boat last winter, that was a good time. Its hard to negotiate when you have driven three plus hrs and rented a trailer for the day lol. He was nice about it and came down to what I offered.

 

Not a bad trip home, everything except front axle, I mean everything is just tack welded together. On the panhard bar one of the bolts came free and the body slid over till it hit the tire. I noticed that the body was againts one tire and lots of room on the other side, oops time to restrap the body down as it is being held on by one bolt . Made it home safe and sound besides that little issue.

 

Thanks for the pics! Should be a fun project. Bag your elk and filet your tuna and get back to it!

 

Well fishing and hunting are over and started trying to find a few parts. Picked up a pair of tires for the back end. I picked up a set of 31/18.50/15 Mickey Thompson sportsman's with black steel wheels. only problem is that the wheels will not work as they are 5 on 5. I also ended up finding a set of Mickey Thompson sportsman's 26/7.50/15's on Jeg's sport stars wheels. They also ended up coming with a set of Weld 15x14 pro star wheels that had 31/18.5/15 Hoosier quick time pro's on them. Plan on taking the quick time pro's off and install the Sportsmans on the weld wheels.

 

I also ended up taking a motor to my maching shop, its a 1995 351W. Motor is getting bored .030 over and stroked to a 4" crank. Going with a Scat zero balanced rotating assembly. Scat cast crank, Scat pro I beam rods with 7/16" ARP bolts and Mahle 20CC dish forged pistons. Going to get a set of ProMaxx 210CC heads with 56CC combustion chamber. Should be around 10.5 to 1 compression. Have a hydraulic roller cam, 242-252 @ .050 with .565"-.580" lift, victor jr intake and a Predator carb. Hope to be getting the motor out of the machine shop in two to three months and then began to assemble it.

 

Ordered a complet front axle and disc brake set up for the front from Speedway. Four inch drop spring behind axle with disc brake's and 37-48 spindles. Waiting on it to get here and will primer and paint it before assemble. I just did not like the front axle and disc brake setup that it came with it. The whole front axle and brake set up was to skechy for me.

 

Welcome to our GREAT forum. I'm looking forward to some photos as you progress through your build. I have a vega steering box , it's your for shipping cost. Let me know if you're interested okay ? The steering box is NEW. i INSTALLED RACK N PINION STEERING. So , no longer need the vega steering box.

 

I have Dynomation 6, if you are interested in running a simulation I could post the engine details that I would need to run the sim?

 

That would be cool, I used to have Dyno2000 years ago but have lost it. I will post specs that I remember needing.
4.030" bore, 4" stroke, 10.75 to 1 compression ratio, single plane intake, big tube long headers, 930cfm carb, solid lifter cam- 242-252 duration at .050, LSA 110, .563-.579 lift.
Heads, 210cc intake runner, 2.08" I and 1.60" E valves
lift 100 200 300 400 500 600 700
Int 77 144 207 262 293 313 319
Ext 65 118 171 210 236 245 256

let me know if you need any more and thanks.

 

In your post #15 you said "hydraulic roller cam", so I need clarification on that point, is it "Solid" or "Hydraulic" and is it a "Flat" or "Roller" tappet. I like to get manufacture and model/grind numbers so I can USE or ADD to my library of heads and camshafts, so please include those. It also helps me decide on which intake manifold to select from, I have to chose a generic category from your information. I know some of your info is posted above, but it's nice when I can go to ONE post for all my info and don't have to search around for it ...... thanks !

Have you already bought your camshaft ?

Dynomation-6 Engine Simulation

Dynomation 6 Input Variables

Bore & Stroke:
Displacement: (cubic inches)
Rod Length:
Heads Make/Model with flow numbers: Flow (CFM) at several lift points.
Combustion Chamber Size in CC’s:
Photo of Combustion Chamber or Select Chamber from Graphic Below:
Dome Volume: For a domed piston use a (-) negative number.
Valve Relief Volume: For a piston with valve reliefs or dish, use a (+) positive number.
Deck Clearance: (Piston to Block Surface)
Head Gasket Bore:
Head Gasket Thickness:
Valve Sizes Intake/Exhaust:
Intake Manifold Type: [Single or Dual Plane]
Manufacture/Model #:
Carburetor Size or EFI (CFM):
Header Tube Diameter: Small, Medium, Large (1-5/8", 1-7/8", 2.0")
..... Tri-Y Headers, Stepped-Tube Headers
Cam Specs: Need all 8 valve timing events (Intake & Exhaust) at seat-to-seat and at 0.050” plus lobe lift or valve lift OR post Cam Card
Rocker Ratio - Intake/Exhaust:
Cam Installed per Cam Card, or Retarded or Advanced:
Fuel Used: Gasoline (Octane ?), Methanol, Ethanol, E85 .....


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