I bought a 23 T that has been sitting for a while. The front wheels are wire and a few of the spokes are broken, I want to put regular rims on the front, but don't want to speed a small fortune on it. The front spindles are from Total Performance (FS100C). Whats the best way to go? Thanks CBW
Changing from spindle mouted rim
- Thread starter f1drivr
- Start date
LumenAl
Member
Re: Changing from spindle mounted rim
First off...
:lol:
Yep... them old hallcraft wheels broke spokes... I went through 2 sets before I stepped up and got the ones Total has by Dayton... much stronger and have run them without any problems.
However, if you want to switch to a more conventional wheel and tire combo, I believe the TP spindles are Compatible with 1937 -1948 early Ford hubs...
If you want to use disk brakes, this kit from Speedway Motors is designed to fit on early ford spindles and uses the 1978-up GM Metric calipers. The link below has Chevy bolt pattern for wheels but they make one for Ford bolt pattern as well... there are lots of options, just thought I'd show you one..
Speedway Complete Brake Kits: 1978-Up GM Caliper to Early Ford Spindles, Chevy Bolt Pattern
Lots of guys are running the GM Calipers... but a lighter setup would be the wilwood setup as shown below... More $$$
Post some pics!
f1drivr said:
First off...
:lol:
Yep... them old hallcraft wheels broke spokes... I went through 2 sets before I stepped up and got the ones Total has by Dayton... much stronger and have run them without any problems.
However, if you want to switch to a more conventional wheel and tire combo, I believe the TP spindles are Compatible with 1937 -1948 early Ford hubs...
If you want to use disk brakes, this kit from Speedway Motors is designed to fit on early ford spindles and uses the 1978-up GM Metric calipers. The link below has Chevy bolt pattern for wheels but they make one for Ford bolt pattern as well... there are lots of options, just thought I'd show you one..
Speedway Complete Brake Kits: 1978-Up GM Caliper to Early Ford Spindles, Chevy Bolt Pattern
Lots of guys are running the GM Calipers... but a lighter setup would be the wilwood setup as shown below... More $$$
Post some pics!
T4TWO
Member
I too would like to get rid of the spindle/hub spokes wheels on mine.
Hey LumenAl,
You wouldn't by chance have the part number for the Wilwood set up? I like them over the Speedway set up. I would rather run a rotor like the Wilwood set up -vs- the Speedway set up. I'm also looking to run the same set up on the rear.
Hey LumenAl,
You wouldn't by chance have the part number for the Wilwood set up? I like them over the Speedway set up. I would rather run a rotor like the Wilwood set up -vs- the Speedway set up. I'm also looking to run the same set up on the rear.
LumenAl
Member
Re: Changing from spindle mounted rim
Link below
Wilwood "Black Gold" 1937-48 Ford Brake Kit
You should also be able to find a setup for your rear brakes... it would be dependent on what you're running for a rear axle...
T 4 2 said:
Link below
Wilwood "Black Gold" 1937-48 Ford Brake Kit
You should also be able to find a setup for your rear brakes... it would be dependent on what you're running for a rear axle...
old round fart
Well-Known Member
I'm in the market for the cast-off hallcraft wires. Anybody wanting to change over, please pm me. Thanks
Well, I got my rims and spindles powder coated silver and ordered twisted SS spokes from Buchanan's spoke and rim. Trying to re-lace the rim is not easy. I think Buchanan's my not have gotten the bends right (not sure yet). Are the Hallcraft hubs centered in the rim or does the out side stick out a little further? Can someone post a few close-up picks of the Hallcraft rims? Thanks, CW
Ted Brown
Member
as far as the speedway brake kits go, they say this..
Not for use with bolt-on steering arms. The 11" rotor brake kits are great for Street Rods based on 1932-1948 Fords. However these kits are much too large and heavy for a T-bucket or early roadster.
910-31940 Instructions (pdf) Just thought I would pass that along..
Not for use with bolt-on steering arms. The 11" rotor brake kits are great for Street Rods based on 1932-1948 Fords. However these kits are much too large and heavy for a T-bucket or early roadster.
910-31940 Instructions (pdf) Just thought I would pass that along..
Speaking of running the 78-87 GM "G Body" metric calipers, have any of you that are using them had trouble getting a hard pedal on the first stroke? I've heard that they are "low drag" calipers and should be used with a quick take up master cylinder. The low drag calipers have a piston seal configuration that causes the pad to retract away from the rotor, thus requiring more master cylinder volume to move the piston back out than can be provided by a conventional master cylinder without pumping the pedal. Experience? Opinions?
Bob
Bob
terrymac
New Member
Speaking of running the 78-87 GM "G Body" metric calipers, have any of you that are using them had trouble getting a hard pedal on the first stroke?
I haven't really run into that problem but I'm useing a master cylinder and booster from that era as well and I have the metric calipers on all 4 corners
I haven't really run into that problem but I'm useing a master cylinder and booster from that era as well and I have the metric calipers on all 4 corners
Similar threads
