Dampers, you say? Pic, link, details pls.
Cheap T Project
- Thread starter CheapT
- Start date
CheapT
Active Member
I finally found a store that had the permatex in stock. All of the others I would have had to order it. I can't believe it either... and I found a shop that carries the cam lube I'm looking for. I want a paste type with high zinc content. I'm not sure how long it will be before I will be starting the engine up for breakin. I also just found a couple machine shops that rebuild engines. Seems weird but I've looked and asked around here about machine shops for the last 2 years. What can I say...I live in rockford.This is what I use for engine assembly lube. It's very tacky and stays on parts very well until your initial start up. All 4 of the big auto parts chains carry it.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
It’s hard to find stuff in brick n mortar vendors anymore. I hate it for the small guys, but I end up just ordering most stuff anymore.
CheapT
Active Member
Fletcherson, I agree with you on using local vendors. I try really hard not to buy online but it seems that any more there is no other alternative. Everything has been converted to that big box mentality.
CheapT
Active Member
Anyway, the local scrap yard has been good to me. I recently used my funds from there to purchase another steering rack. I'll probably need to get new tie rod ends but at least it will turn left when i turn the wheel to the left!! Once I get the rack set up I'll be able to get the steering wheel and linkage set. Anyone have thoughts on steering column setup? Best location, (I know, in the car somewhere on the left side. Lol) angles, distances when sitting in it. Or is it as easy as sit in the seat and set it where it feels best? (If I have to sit in the seat I'll have to finish the interior first)
I'll start assembling the engine this week. Hope to have everything together by the weekend. I'll post progress pictures as I go.
I'll start assembling the engine this week. Hope to have everything together by the weekend. I'll post progress pictures as I go.
CheapT
Active Member
FYI, most of you are probably running a roller cam but I'm old school and "Cheap, I have a flat tappet cam....(argh, got kicked out again and lost my stuff. Must be my dang service!?) Anyway, the shop I got my cam lube from informed me that hes seen a rash of problems with flat tappet cams. He said I should use my Old worn out valve springs for the breaking process and then install my new springs. These aren't special super strong springs.. they're stock 80's Z-28 springs.!! He also added that I should put a paint spot on the push rods to make sure there are rotating. Hope this helps out someone else. In the "old days" when oil was different we didn't have to worry about this. Now it's apparently a Big Deal. Oils don't have as much Zinc additive and that is what kills it. At least that's what I've read....
I, too, am running a flat-tappet cam (mild) and that's what Comp Cams tells me. So I use a bottle of their "break-in" lube (lotsa zinc) at every oil change. No problems to date. 'Been on the road since May 2016.
Indycars
Well-Known Member
There are lots of break-in oils with high levels of ZDDP, I used the Lucas 30w.
High Zinc Engine Break-In Oil
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/luc-10631-1
Then I used Royal Purple HPS that continues to use higher levels of ZDDP, but not as high as break-in oils.
HPS® | Royal Purple
Motor oil lab tests – the new Royal Purple HPS and others
.
High Zinc Engine Break-In Oil
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/luc-10631-1
Then I used Royal Purple HPS that continues to use higher levels of ZDDP, but not as high as break-in oils.
HPS® | Royal Purple
Motor oil lab tests – the new Royal Purple HPS and others
.
Last edited:
TheYeti
Active Member
The Zinc content is a huge contributor to the wear but the biggest thing causing premature camshaft failure lately is an infiltration of poorly manufactured lifters. It has been costing a lot of people a huge headache and $$$.
Stay away from any budget lifters. Uncle Tony's Garage on Youtube goes real into depth of the lifter failure as of late. You can check his video out if you're into that..
Stay away from any budget lifters. Uncle Tony's Garage on Youtube goes real into depth of the lifter failure as of late. You can check his video out if you're into that..
CheapT
Active Member
I will be checking the old springs as well as the new ones when installed. If it survives the break-in. Last cam install was like 1981.....Everything with engines seems to have changed.
CheapT
Active Member
Initially I wasn't going to use a breakin oil but the more I read about it it just seems like cheap insurance.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
True. I had my first ever break in wiped cam with a comp cams cam/lifters/springs. Not a radical cam, basically a rv type cam in my truck. Per the comp cams tech, all cam blanks now come from China. I’ve installed lots of cams over the years, never a problem till this one. Had good luck with comp cams stuff until this one. Not only did it wipe two lobes and dish the lifters, the shards of metal trashed the bearings too. Ten minutes or less, great oil pressure... till the bearings got chewed up. Also, I replaced a cam in a 300-6 and the new cam had a slip of paper included that recommended using rotela or zinc/phosphorus additive because the new oils are not designed for metal to metal friction. It’s hard on cams, cylinder walls, etc... if the oil doesn’t kill it, the crap fuel will!
CheapT
Active Member
I looked at a few of the videos. One said the a certain manufacturer could be using remanned lifters. Mine have been soaking in oil for over a month. I might try to see if I can design a test to make sure they won't bleed down.
CheapT
Active Member
I've got a new rack and mocked it up. It should work ok. I have to check the angle of the steering shaft so I get the proper U joints. Looks like it will work out fine. My newest issue appears to be my transmission. I cleaned out the pan and found some metal shavings/ bits in it...These weren't just little filings either. Looks like I'll be looking for another trans or having this one rebuilt. I was hoping to make some real progress this summer while it's nice out but got zapped by another health issue. My wife and I just got over the latest version of the Vid. I'm beginning to see how these projects take on a life of their own and go on forever..
Anyone ever use foam mats for laying on the ground or kneeling on? These are great for the knees and back. They measure 24 x 24 and about 1/2" thick.
Anyone ever use foam mats for laying on the ground or kneeling on? These are great for the knees and back. They measure 24 x 24 and about 1/2" thick.
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fletcherson
Well-Known Member
I totally understand how everything gets in the way of completing projects. It gets to the point of being hesitant to dig back into it in anticipation of the next unexpected demand. I also got hit very hard with the China virus in January... almost took me out. Still suffering breathing issues from it. No answers. I have several foam wheel chair seat pads that I use to kneel on and use cheap soft foam knee pads. The drawback is the straps are too tight or stretch out and are ineffective.
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