I have them already made up, welds to the frame underneath the floor, comes with a new master cylinder.
cooters T bucket build
- Thread starter cooter
- Start date
If I misunderstood, I apologize.
Normally I'd be going with some kind of simpler configuration, but a few different factors came together to take me beyond the KISS principal.
First and foremost was my desire not to have the master(s) under the floor. Due to my mobility issues, as much as possible I want nothing under the floor that will require maintenance. That left me with firewall mounted master(s)...I opted for a floor mounted pedal assembly.
The brakes that came on my axle were shot after years buried in the salvage yard mud. I also needed suspension control arms. The high performance rear brake set up came as part of an ebay package deal with competition adjustable control arms, for a fraction of what OEM parts would have cost...a deal I couldn't ignore.
The Wilwood dual master pedal assembly (another ebay deal), and the eventual Tilton masters end up being the last pieces of the puzzle...and the most cost effective configuration to solve fitment issues and allow balancing of the two very different front and rear brake setups.
benT
Active Member
My '27 has the MC under the dash in a reversed fashion using an assembly made by a local rod hop no longer in business. It works well, but is hard to fill as my dash isn't removable. I've used a lightweight MC from a non-power early Ford Ranger with a translucent plastic reservoir. I can see the level without taking the cap off which is important as the cap is only a few inches from the underside of the cowl. Good thing I don't have to fill it often! I like not having the MC under the floor and on the firewall, but the trade off is a more difficult assembly and maintenance.
Nothing wrong with the MC on the firewall. Dad's 27 has it this way and utilizes a stock pedal assembly. Simple and works well.
My point wasn't to criticize your system, but to say if you can simplify it, it will serve you well in the long run.
Nothing wrong with the MC on the firewall. Dad's 27 has it this way and utilizes a stock pedal assembly. Simple and works well.
My point wasn't to criticize your system, but to say if you can simplify it, it will serve you well in the long run.
2old2fast
Active Member
I believe mounting under the floor is the best way , It's mounted to the frame , it's out of sight , it's simple , you don't see the brake lines , overall , just the best way to do it... AFA servicing , I check my fluid once a year , flush the system every other year , remember the K.I.S.S. principle !!
dave
dave
one finger john
Active Member
You kiss your brake system every time it stops you from getting into an accident.
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Stupid
John
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Stupid
John
Here is a pic of my pedal assembly with masters mounted.
Not all that complicated...just pedals and masters...no linkage or bracketry required. The only added complexity is two separate masters, instead of the typical two combined end to end in one casting. In my application I'll be using a remote resevoir like this...
to avoid having to work around the headers to check/add fluid.
Sorry...I can't help with the 90 degree set up. I remember seeing something on it some time ago, but I remember no details.
benT
Active Member
Here is the system in my '27 prior to install. It mounts to a plate on the inside of the firewall that is welded to the steel bracing under my cowl. I've since switched out the mechanical switch to a smaller one as you can see in the second pic:
Here is the setup we did for the '23 we just finished. Brackets to hold the MC are welded to the frame. The bracket that has the pedal is bolted to allow removal of the pedal assembly without removing the trans. It is approximately 6:1 ratio. After this pic was taken we trimmed up the top of the pedal arm a bit. The pedal bolts to the arm and the MC is accessed through the silver plate one the floor - shown in the second pic:
Here is the setup we did for the '23 we just finished. Brackets to hold the MC are welded to the frame. The bracket that has the pedal is bolted to allow removal of the pedal assembly without removing the trans. It is approximately 6:1 ratio. After this pic was taken we trimmed up the top of the pedal arm a bit. The pedal bolts to the arm and the MC is accessed through the silver plate one the floor - shown in the second pic:
Actually, I only have one fitment issue.
No issue in the footwell. The whole assembly mounts on top of the frame rail, instead of inside the rail, so it can set as far left as possible. This is an automatic, so no clutch pedal. Front to back, nothing extends beyond the maximum pedal travel to take up extra space. Plus I have an 8" extended body...2" more than the entire pedal assembly length. The steering column will pass through the firewall above the pedal.
Outside, the Tilton 74s are less than 6" long...and I have the option of going with the 75 series at only around 4" long. No issue with the bellhousing. Going with the remote resevoir resolves the potential header and steering shaft clearance issues.
The source of potential issue is the engine block. The block is cast to allow mounting the starter on either side. For my application the starter mounts out of the way, on the passenger side. The unused driver side extension for mounting a starter has a "nub" that sticks out about a 1/2" beyond the bell housing...right next to the widest point of the inner master cylinder. On paper I should have about 1/4" clearance, but I plan on cutting/grinding off that nub.
I'm sure that there will be issues crop up, but if it becomes necessary I'll use Detroit Speedcraft's trick of a "blister" on the front side of the body to get wiggle room.
cooter
Well-Known Member
2old2fast
Active Member
I wouldnot want a "live" open shaft inside the car , just something else for clothing to get tangled with. Having a steel tubing hoop at the firewall & the dash is handy for attaching the column base & column drop. I ran the columnJUST through the firewall , seemed a cleaner assy.
dave
dave
cooter
Well-Known Member
Steel tubeing hoop?
john dioli
Member
heres mine nice and simple
cooter
Well-Known Member
Still gotta cut hole for brakes, body mounts and possibly battery box.
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