cooter
Well-Known Member
it wont hit seat when i tilt seat forward.
cooters T bucket build
- Thread starter cooter
- Start date
one finger john
Active Member
Pictures !!!
I like the mechanical aspect of the bed being bolted on. Henry Ford didn't mold the beds in 1923.
John
I like the mechanical aspect of the bed being bolted on. Henry Ford didn't mold the beds in 1923.
John
cooter
Well-Known Member
Exactly!!! Anyone have pictures? CCR BOLTS THEIRS ON
one finger john
Active Member
Might check California Custom Roadsters
By the way CCR, your catalogue is old and out of date.
John
By the way CCR, your catalogue is old and out of date.
John
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
cooter
Well-Known Member
You told me that and i forgot. Thanks for reminding me
one finger john
Active Member
Gloss black frame - what other color is there? It's a frame. Or yellow.
I've always wanted a British Racing Green bucket. With a yellow accented frame.
John
I've always wanted a British Racing Green bucket. With a yellow accented frame.
John
one finger john
Active Member
OR !!!
Gloss black frame, hunter green body (a little darker British Racing Green, single stage), with Yellow rims.
These are the Lotus Formula 1 racing colors (early 60s).
Always liked the contrast.
John
Gloss black frame, hunter green body (a little darker British Racing Green, single stage), with Yellow rims.
These are the Lotus Formula 1 racing colors (early 60s).
Always liked the contrast.
John
Red for me, nothing says hot rod like bright red.
My first T Bucket from many years ago.
On the frame, it depends on if you are trying to hide it or accent it. To make it blend into the background somewhat, satin or semi gloss...to make it pop, gloss black.
For the other colors, that's going to be dependant on if you are going to keep your seat's gray upholstery...If you are, you want your other colors complementary.
Since you have the Hunter (dark) green, I see no reason not to make use of it.
JMHO, I'd not go with the hunter green and yellow unless you were running a Lotus drivetrain...the colors are just too associated with Lotus to use otherwise. As an alternative, I'd go with gold for the accent color. I think either yellow or gold for the accent would require something other than the gray upholstery.
With the gray seat, I'd go with the hunter green you have, and do accents in a light green (like seafoam or mint). I'm doing the reverse of the 2 greens...light green for the main color, and dark for the accents.
im thinkin
Bondo them in, then 2 layers of glass.
I've been trying to digest everything I find on the subject of "wooding". I've found no consensus on the material...Pine boards, plywood, chipboard, etc. My choice where I will use wood is Ash. Morgan Motor Company has been building cars with substantial body wooding for over 100 years...today they still use Ash. That's good enough for me.
For sticking the wood to the body, again no consensus. Based on the testimonial of someone who has tried a few of the popular methods over the years, if I were to do mine today I'd go with West System Six10 adhesive. Easy to use, spans reasonable gaps, and cures to a serious grip.
Another thing I've seen repeated recommendations from folks bonding wood to anything, is to use a woodpecker...
or similar to perforate the wood to allow the adhesive to get a good grip.
Another thing that is consistent is that if you are using a wood product you must encapsulate it with fiberglass or ??? to protect the wood from moisture.
WARNING! The following is something that is the untried product of this warped brain.
Using blocks of wood around the top of the body seems to be the most popular way to go. Depending on how brave I am when the time comes, I may try a variation.
First, instead of using blocks of wood, I want to try blocks of the marine composite material similar to the material I plan on for the floor. The composite material will not require encapsulating to protect from moisture.
Next, I want to use the minimally expanding foam (the stuff used when installing windows) to fill the gaps between the blocks. Once cured, I'd sand off the excess.
An option would be to use thinner blocks...say 3/8" thick...to allow 2 layers with the second layer of blocks spanning the gaps between the first layer of blocks.
I would still use ash to frame the door(s) and door opening(s).
I'm not planning on any upholstery on the sides of the body , so Id either be very careful positioning the blocks so there is a neat exposed edge, or use my router to finish the exposed edge. I plan on using tinted bed liner for the entire inside of the body.
cooter
Well-Known Member
No interior? Hmm...interesting... I have 3/4" thick pine board 3 1/2" wide to cut my pieces out of. Gonna leave a pretty good overhang from the fiberglass lip. Thought about running 2x4 through planner in wood shop to exact thickness i want. We built fiberglass dunebuggies and they had smooth glass interior. Kinda like a boat.
Yup...no upholstery other than the seat...no carpeting either. Everything not painted will be covered with the tinted bed liner. The plan is to make the entire seat removable by pulling hinge pins, and/or making the seat cushions velcro in for easy removal. A few reasons for this route...
The first being that this thing is likely to be outside all the time...no garage, only a car cover when parked...no top, only eventually a tonneau cover when out and about. Our property is adjacent to a large wooded ravine, so we have a large variety of varmints that would make short work of converting upholstery to nesting material. No worries about wet upholstery.
Next, though this car will be built from a T-Bucket body, frame, and many parts, it's not going to be built T-Bucket style. It's going to be built in a post war T Modified/Track roadster style...a race car. Not to many race cars with upholstery.
Finally it's simply a matter of keeping it simple and low budget. I upholstered enough MGs & VWs back in the day to know that upholstery is a talent I do not have...I usually went through multiple expensive tries to get something I still was not proud of.
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