Damaged Oil Pan

[Indycars]

Got all my painting done including color sanding with 800 and 1000 grit paper. Went over it with
polishing compound and then some wax.




Next was to get started on the clean up. I decided to remove the rear main cap so I could get better access
to the grooved gasket surface. The front groove in the timing chain cover had to be cleaned in place. I had
used silicone sealer on both the front the rear grooves, so this took several hours to get properly cleaned.
Pulling the rear main also allowed me to inspect the bearing.






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[choppinczech]

You get more done in a few days than I get done in a month.

 

[Spanky]

Pulling the rear main also allowed me to inspect the bearing.

Your bearings look great, Rick! And I know you don't 'baby' that engine.
Is Royal Purple a synthetic?

 

[Indycars]

You get more done in a few days than I get done in a month.

Thanks Choppinczech !

 

[Indycars]

Is Royal Purple a synthetic?

Yes, I believe it's what is called a Full Synthetic. They use terms like "Premium full synthetic motor oil"
on their website.

Why Synthetics? | Royal Purple

I use the HPS (High Performance Street) for the added ZDDP. Since I don't have a catalytic converter,
I can use the ZDDP.

HPS® | Royal Purple

HIGH PERFORMANCE ENGINE OIL (WITH SYNERLEC®)
HPS is recommended for use in gasoline and diesel automotive, commercial fleet and stationary
industrial engines. Royal Purple® HPS® Series motor oil is specifically formulated to maximize
performance and meet the demands of high performance and modified engines. HPS is recommended
for vehicles no longer under manufacturer warranty and for those seeking a higher level of
performance and protection. Royal Purple HPS oils are fortified with a high level of zinc /
phosphorus anti-wear additive and a generous dose of Royal Purple’s proprietary Synerlec®
additive technology. These unique formulations enable HPS oils to outperform leading synthetic and
conventional lubricants in both gasoline and diesel engines.


.

 

[409T]

Synthetic Oil: Everything You Need To Know

 

[Spanky]

One more question, Indy . . . why the WIX 51060 rather than the 51061? Do you need the antidrainback feature?

 

[Indycars]

.
No, I don't need the anti-drain back valve, but I do get the Synthetic Filter Media, that's not
available in the Wix 51061. When the Wix number ends in "XP", that's the synthetic filter
media. There is also the Wix numbers that end in "R" for racing, but you will notice that the
flow in GPM goes up, but so does the "Nominal Micron Rating". It will not filter as small a
particle as the standard filter.

Here is another tip I've used a several times to get the right filter height that fit's my
application.

The example below is for a Small Block Chevrolet (SBC).

WIX Filters - Products Catalog Home

- Select the 2 fields as shown in the graphic below.



- Select the thread size of 13/16" - 16 TPI in the graphic below.



- Select the page size of "50".
- Click on the "Gasket OD" header to sort by this column.
- Page down until you see 3.444, that's for a SBC.



Now you can see every filter that Wix makes and fits a SBC with most of the specs for
each filter. I use the "57099XP" for my remote mounted transmission filter. You will notice
that it is very short at just 3.306 inches in height, anything taller would not fit. This method
makes it easy to find the filter size and specs you require. If you don't like Wix, then you
can cross-reference it to the brand you do like.

Want a two quart filter, then that's the Wix 51794.


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[fletcherson]

I used to use the orange and black filters until one split at the end on my 460 in my truck. Luckily, I was close to home when I noticed the smell. When I opened the hood, I could see the filter flexing as it sprayed oil everywhere. Took it apart to find a piece of cardboard used to reinforce the obviously thinner than usual housing. My point, there are differences in quality.

 

[Indycars]

I used to use the orange and black filters until one split at the end on my 460 in my truck.

I haven't used those Fr?? filters in a long time now. Many times it's more about the marketing
then the actual item's functionality. You can't tell what's fact and what's marketing when it
comes to the company verbosity or can you. It's ALL marketing terms !

 

[rbsWELDER]

If you watch the oil filter videos on YouTube, you will see the interior's of the orange and black filters are all cardboard. They were rated the worst!!!

 

[Indycars]

I did grind on the welds to help with the appearance, then I tested with water for any leaks I
might have created.

I like to have several magnets in the pan to catch any metal debris, I had some from the old pan
and some new ones waiting to be used. The new ones are bar magnets, they are easy to break as
I found out when they are long and skinny.

I setup the magnets so the oil coming thru the trap door would have to flow over at least one
magnet before being sucked up by the oil pump.

It's best to buy High Temp magnets for this application. Magnets loose their strength as temps rise.
The link below is what I have used, they are good for 302°F and above.

K&J Magnetics: High Temp Magnets



These magnets are stronger than one might think. See how it's holding the trap door open. I had to
make sure all the magnets were far enough away so the doors would not be effected.



Three more magnets for good measure !!!



I've got magnets in the engine valley and the transmission pan also.



Magnets in the transmission oil pan. Since the pan is aluminum I used JB Weld to hold the magnets in place.



You can tell that JB Weld has metal in it by the way it pulls the JB up and around the magnet.



If you don't want to put magnets in your trans oil pan, then Wix makes a magnetic inline filter
you can install during the first few hundred miles to keep the metal debris from circulating thru
the system.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wix-58964






Finally done, just had to run up to O'Reillys for a M20 x 1.5 plug where the oil temp sensor goes.


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[fletcherson]

Good on you. I put them in mine too. Non rollorized valve trains seem to generate debris... as do piston ring/cylinder wear. I have installed screens and restrictions in the valley on my old stroker to contain it and direct oil flow in the past. Did it make a difference? No definite answer, but no catastrophic failures related. Other than valve springs, rockers, and push rods... different story. Victims of a loose shifter cable related missed shift. Went from second to neutral at wot, so over rev injuries were sustained. It still lives! Did you polish the crank? Many overlook the finish of a fresh turned crank bearing journal. Of course I had a old time life long machinist tell me that he felt minor scars actually retained oil, sort of like hp bearings with grooves, and were beneficial as long as tolerances were good. I’m not sure I agree, but it makes sense. I like everything as smooth and slick as possible. Some extra time spent cleaning up sharp edges, de burring, etc can add life to bearings by minimizing possible sources of debris, imho. Oh, and clean everything well when assembling. Lots of debris is created in the machining process.

 

[Indycars]

I have installed screens and restrictions in the valley

Cool, you noticed the extra work I went to add a little insurance ! Thanks You, Thank You !!!

but no catastrophic failures related. Other than valve springs, rockers, and push rods... different story.

I over revved the engine in 2018 and found parts of the lifter stuck to a valley magnet. Bent
the intake valve on the #1 cylinder. Hard to believe but there were no identifiable marks on
the piston. Yes the rings had not seated yet, hence the buildup on the valve.





I have to say something nice about Crower, I have a Crower camshaft hydraulic
roller #00471, I included this since they did me right and checked all my lifters and
sold me a new set of lifters at a very good price.

Camshafts | Connecting Rods | Roller Lifters | Rockers | Crankshafts |



Back to more magnets, I used some from a hard disk drive and this is what it looked like. Photo
was taken at 8x magnification.



OK, this is kinda my wheel house so I might be showing off just a little bit below. hehehe !!!

I deburred all the edges and ground smooth the entire bottom end surface. Once that was done
I painted it. Well that's just the tip of the iceberg as they say, I went way farther than what you
see here.

The photo below is just before I dropped the crankshaft into place for the last time.

Did you polish the crank?

No I didn't polish the journals, but I did spend many hours on the Scat Forged crankshaft and rods.



Below is my build thread, it has 152 pages and over 110,000 views.

TBucket Engine Project (Dart SHP) | Grumpys Performance Garage
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[fletcherson]

Awesome! Looks great. I haven’t reviewed your thread in full yet, but from everything that I have observed, you have a lot of pride in your workmanship and skill. And way more energy than I at this point, lol. It takes some time and effort to obtain such results. I appreciate that level of attention to detail, no matter what the project is. It matters. It’s amazing how fast, a split second, you can destroy a grand worth of valve train parts. When I over revved mine, it also destroyed the intake valve stem seals on every cylinder and broke the k motion springs on two, with two bent push rods. The valley screens actually prevented anything from getting into the pan. Those stroker motors build rpm very rapidly. That is awesome about Crower. The guys at Jegs actually replaced a cam/lifter set that wiped a lobe during break in for me and credited me for bearings on a past issue. They didn’t owe it to me, just extended a extreme courtesy. The only time I’ve ever had that happen to me out of I don’t know how many cams I’ve installed. I try to show my appreciation by being loyal.

 

[Indycars]

Awesome! Looks great. I haven’t reviewed your thread in full yet, but from everything that I have observed, you have a lot of pride in your workmanship and skill.

Thanks, your comment is very much appreciated !

When I over revved mine, it also destroyed the intake valve stem seals on every cylinder and broke the k motion springs on two, with two bent push rods.

You did way more damage than I did.

I didn't even know the valve was bent until I was looking for TDC and had my finger over the
spark plug hole so I could tell when I was on the compression stroke. It would not push my
finger off the plug hole, it was not building any compression.

The guys at Jegs actually replaced a cam/lifter set that wiped a lobe during break in for me and credited me for bearings on a past issue. They didn’t owe it to me, just extended a extreme courtesy

Good things do happen, we just don't here about it very often.