Garage Merch                Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

Wanted Enclosed Car Trailer

Well with you 2s cars and trailer configurations, you don't have to cross tie the cars so they wont be sideways in the trailers when you get to where you're going.
I put my front wheels almost to my tool box which puts most of the cars weight is over the axles and behind it so I don't have as much tongue weight.
I had my son help me measure it again and now have it down to 850#. So far !! Thank GOD for equalizer hitches as my brain don't comprehend somethings.
 
Mine fits tighter than yours, I'm touching on both side and the sidewalls are compressed
about a 1/4". Hopefully with tools and such in the front I can get the proper tongue weight
without loading the bucket with the rear tires inside the wheel wells.

I bought the Better Weigh, so we will see.

View attachment 18745

Please let us know how Better Weigh works, where you end up w/ car loaded in trailer and tongue weight.
 
Will do after I have had a little experience using it !
 
My safety chains are too long and will drag the ground. Not only are they too long, but the manufacture CargoMate has attached them to the bottom of the coupler. This could easily be ground off if the trailer drops to the ground at highway speeds. The attached PDF file will explain why among many other things one should think about concerning safety chains.

So I started check into how I can safely adjust them, most of which have limitations or just
unsafe.
- Twisting
- Welding
- Doubling back on the chain
- Cutting chain to length

Four states actually require attachment on the side of the tongue and they are:
- Indiana
- Massachusetts
- Michigan
- Texas

FP10_SafetyChainAttachment_02175.jpg

I bought two of the threaded links below thinking I could use them to shorten the chains by skipping a couple of links and reconnecting. This option was not covered in the PDF article.


upload_2020-5-10_15-16-43.png

The author of the PDF article is also the owner of the LinkLock attaching device, so he could be biased.

The PDF file is too big to attach, so I have provided the link below. Click on RESOURCES in the top right corner and select "Safety Chain White Paper".

Link Lock | Revolutionizing Trailer Chain Safety

upload_2020-5-10_16-11-0.png

Also attached is a Excel file containing the laws for all 50 states. Don't forget to checkout the 2nd tab at the bottom for more info.
.
 

Attachments

  • Safety-Chain-Laws-by-State.xlsx
    34.7 KB · Views: 5
Last edited:
link Lock is correct about cutting chains to length if you ONLY pull it with one vehicle. So my suggestion is to cut the chains off the trailer and re weld the loops where you want them on the sides of the tongue and then use the threaded links to attach to trailer at the correct lengths. Back the tow vehicle at any angle you want and attach the chain on the outside (long side) of the angle first and that will give you the total lengths for your turning radius and let the slack hang at the trailer tongue. This also gives you some security by removing the chains when you unhook from it and if you have a tongue lock as it then will be unable to hook up and pull with just the chains crisscrossed under the tongue.
 
I'm looking at getting something like the photo below for welding on the side. I wonder if my 175 amp MIG is up to the challenge ?

upload_2020-5-11_11-53-32.png
 
Last edited:
I might as well upgrade the chain while I'm in this process. CargoMate put 5/16", grade 43 chain on the trailer. I won't need to go bigger and heavier if I just go to a higher grade chain. A grade 120-5/16" would be equivalent to a grade 43 and between a 3/8" to a 7/16" chain.

Chain_Grades_Size_WorkingLoad.jpg
.
 
Last edited:
I'm looking at getting something like the photo below for welding on the side.
I wonder if my 175 amp MIG is up to the challenge ?

View attachment 18770
Your 175 should be fine. Stick even better, from my old school perspective... just prepare the metal and chamfer the edges of the hoop mount, burn it in. Those are available from various on line sources as well as trailer, towing, and farm supply vendors. I have them on my car hauler, they work well.
 
Placed an order with Tulsa Chain, they are close to me and had good prices. Also they had everything from one manufacture, except for the weld on D ring.

TulsaChain.com

upload_2020-5-12_17-27-4.png
 
Last edited:
They carry weld on d rings. Did you not want the Ken Forging Brand? I used them on one of my trailers some time ago.
 
I'm alittle confused those are the Ken Forging brand, made in the USA.
Weld On D Rings

upload_2020-5-13_10-48-23.png

And the other three pieces are made by Pewag.

Grade 120 self locking
Grade 120 Chain per Foot
Grade 120 Connecting Link

upload_2020-5-13_10-49-39.png upload_2020-5-13_10-50-44.png upload_2020-5-13_10-51-44.png

I almost went up to the 3/8" chain, but didn't want to deal with the added weight. I also wasn't sure how it would all fit together if they were different brands, which I couldn't seem to find anywhere. I figured this Grade 120 chain was a big step in the right direction anyway !

I wonder how the connecting link is held together without coming apart, the last pic on the right above ???
 
The pin may screw in. Notice the hole size that you can see, is smaller than is the pin that you can see. May have to call them. With that chain size you can hold down a tank.;)

Ok, I called Mike at Tulsa Chain. The pin has a bushing in the center. When it is put together, the pin is driven in and a swedge fit. It can be removed later but not really recommended to be done over a couple of times
 
Last edited:
Ok, I called Mike at Tulsa Chain. The pin has a bushing in the center. When it is put together, the pin is driven in and a swedge fit. It can be removed later but not really recommended to be done over a couple of times
I had seen that other places, but their website gave no indication that it would come apart. I just assumed it did since it was called a "Connecting Link". I think it was called a Hammer Lock Coupling other places.

BTW, thanks for calling !

 
Last night I realized I couldn't reach the tongue of my trailer with the welder. So today I started looking at making one vs buying one. I ended up buying this one from Amazon. If I had made one I would have gone with 6 gauge instead of the 8 gauge that I purchased and made it 30 feet long. But the 8 gauge should be fine according to this calculator. I used the lowest "Voltage Drop" for the calc. The cord coming out of the welder is 12 gauge.

Online Wire Size Calculators & Tables

upload_2020-5-13_14-56-50.png


upload_2020-5-13_14-52-3.png
.
 
Last edited:
Hey, that looks like the one that I have. It does heat up a bit if I use the mig for extended times, like an hour of steady heavy welding. Not so much with the tig. Mine is 8 gauge also.
 
Like I used to say before I changed to "Happiness is G-Force .... "Too Much Is Just Enough !!!" .... LOL !

I hope it doesn't take me an hour to weld on those D-Rings !
 
Last edited:
Getting ready to weld on the D-Rings to the tongue on the trailer. I'm far from a good welder, so I'm trying to give myself the best chance of success. Instead of welding the D-Ring directly to the tongue, I'm thinking that welding it to some 1/4" plate first where I can be in the most comfortable position and then welding that plate to the tongue. This way I get to put a weld on all 4 sides and spread the load out. Sound right ?

The trailer tongue is 2" x 6" x 1/8" and the plate is 1/4", so do I set the welder for 1/8", 1/4" or something in between. Same kinda of problem with the D-Ring mount to the plate. The welder is 175 amp Eastwood.

Comments ?

FP11_D-RingWeldPlate_02182.jpg
.
 
Last edited:

     Ron Pope Motorsports                Advertise with Us!     
Back
Top