Anyone running Evans coolant? I'm in the process of switching over and would like to know how you got ALL of the old stuff out. Any water left in will degrade it's effectiveness. I opened my block drains, rad petcock, and hoses and used a shop vac on all openings. I also removed the water neck and stat. How do you like the Evans? 400 degrees F boiling point with a 7lb. cap sounds good to me!
Evans Coolant
- Thread starter hotrodman
- Start date
I don't know, I use water wetter from Redline.
Mixed with what? Just distilled water?
Just with tap water, it lowered the water temps by about 15 degrees. I drained all the antifreeze first including pulling the block plugs.
You're asking for a lot of corrosion just running water-IMHO.
I don't use straight water. I use this; Water Wetter
I lived in Vegas up until a month ago, this was the only thing that would keep the car running cool enough in the Summer.
Most radiator manufacturers will tell you never use tap water. It contains too many minerals. Walker recommends using Distilled water, which is what I use with a water pump lubricant. My blown 350 runs at 185 all day long even on the Texas heat.
What type of water pump lubricant? I was looking at a bottle of Redline water wetter and the label said to run at least 15% antifreeze in the water. I'm going to guess this is to act as a pump lube also.
As far as water goes, I have read that the very best (purest) water is the stuff that comes in the 50-50 pre-mixed antifreeze. Naturally that won't work if you want to run plain water. Next is anything that has the lowest mineral content. For me, in So. Cal. where the water has so many minerals you can almost hurt someone by splashing them, distilled water seems to be the best option, however if the stuff out of the tap is pure enough, I guess that would work just as well.
Jeff
So what do you do when you in west bygone nowhere and there is no distilled water available? ... I was always told tap water will work if you let it run for several minutes before using it. Used tap water in steam irons like that for years and have had no problems.
I don't think I need to worry as much about the Summer temps here, as much as in Vegas. I had problems once the temps got up over 110 or so before.
I've used tap water for years without problems. However being on a well now, and changing out the filter yesterday. I think I'll go to the distilled water.
blownt
Member
... or, just run without a radiator ... actually, it is mounted in the bed ...
You buy this bucket from a guy in Carrolton? Did it have a Potvin blower when you bought it or no? I have several pics of this bucket with a Potvin front mounted blower. And it was here in the Houston Autorama around 1993 with it.
NICE BUCKET FERSUR !!!!!!!!
You buy this bucket from a guy in Carrolton? Did it have a Potvin blower when you bought it or no? I have several pics of this bucket with a Potvin front mounted blower. And it was here in the Houston Autorama around 1993 with it.
NICE BUCKET FERSUR !!!!!!!!
blownt
Member
as for the radiator and water question. I has massive problems when I had the Wellbaum shorty brass radiator I bought from Speedway back in 93 or so. With a warmed over 350 it would run 225 and in Houston traffic in the summer it would get to 240 or so. Then when I put the blower on it would run 245+ and start popping seams. I tried everything - high flow waterpump, high flow themostat, no themostat, restrictors, 50/50 antifreeeze, straight antifreeze, water wetter. You name it I tried it. Finally got a Walker Cobra Z radiator and problem solved. Hardly ever see over 195.
If you run straight water and have aluminum heads, BE CAREFULL, you will get calcium buildup and it will block the small water passages in the block and heads. I know, it happened to me. Took the heads off in 2005 and they were all blocked up with hard white calcium. Poked all the stuff out then it all clogged the radiator at the Nats in Mt Home and I overheated on all the cruises. Came back home and flushed the radiator and it looked like snow. Also straight water reacts with the dissimilar metals (aluminum heads, intake and the cast iron block and the aluminum will start to get eaten away in the head water passages. Just about ruined my set of AFR alum heads. Best to use Distilled Water with a water pump lubricant and rust preventative and/or antifreeze if you want to.
If you run straight water and have aluminum heads, BE CAREFULL, you will get calcium buildup and it will block the small water passages in the block and heads. I know, it happened to me. Took the heads off in 2005 and they were all blocked up with hard white calcium. Poked all the stuff out then it all clogged the radiator at the Nats in Mt Home and I overheated on all the cruises. Came back home and flushed the radiator and it looked like snow. Also straight water reacts with the dissimilar metals (aluminum heads, intake and the cast iron block and the aluminum will start to get eaten away in the head water passages. Just about ruined my set of AFR alum heads. Best to use Distilled Water with a water pump lubricant and rust preventative and/or antifreeze if you want to.
Not all tap water is the same! It depends on where the water came from. If it came from surface water(canals,lakes,rivers etc.)you would generally have less minerals to create deposits. Ground water will generally have more minerals(calcium,phospates and iron). Why chance it! Use distilled water its pure! You pay about $3.00 to fill your radiator and block for the good stuff.You will spend ALOT more than that fixing your mistake.
Wow, still talking about it. I don't think he asked what radiator you used.
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